Re-use a press fit barrel?

45Wheelgun

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Is it possible to remove a press fit (non-pinned post 1980) barrel and then use it again or are press fit barrels a one time use item?

Will a "new" press fit barrel work in a frame that was intended to have a "pinned' barrel?

Thanks
 
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To answer both questions, yes.

There is no such thing as a "press-fit" barrel in a S&W revolver, or "crush-fit" for that matter. S&W barrels are fit just like barrels in any other firearm, rifle or revolver of other makes. They are threaded and screwed into the frame with a degree of "Draw", the force needed to fully seat the barrel once the shoulder contacts the frame. The difference is the later non-pinned guns use a little more draw (torque) than the pinned guns.

The pin never did retain the barrel. It was merely a safety device so that if the barrel did loosen in the frame it was limited in how far it could turn. This was so, even a gun the barrel had loosened in, would retain barrel alignment so the gun would continue to be functional, even if accuracy were affected. This could be very important to a LEO in a bad situation. With the increased torque values there is less chance this could happen so the pin was deleted as a cost-cutting measure.

New barrels, for the same frame size, have the same thread diameter and pitch as older ones, so a new barrel can be used in an old gun. In either case, a used barrel being fit to a different frame may need to be set back a turn to obtain proper draw. If you are going to re-install the barrel pin a groove for it will have to be filed across the barrel shank.

Unless you remove the barrel to replace it, or set it back a thread to allow adjustment of the barrel-cylinder gap, why would you comtemplate removing it at all?
 
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I have a couple of projects in mind, both that involved putting a new barrel on a old gun, and I wanted to insure I could "undo" it if I wanted. Thank you for the insight.
 
Dave,

The main thing that you have to be careful of is not hurting the frame or barrel in the process. This is not something that you can take out to the garage or basement workshop, clamp in the vice and grab the old stilson wrench and begin turning away. (I have never attempted this but have read this many times on various forums)

Not only can you marr the finish of the frame or barrel, apparently you can also crush or twist the frame if not held or turned correctly. Just some words of caution.:D
 
Thanks James, I knew this was something I could not "bubba" in the garage.

A couple of other questions if I might.

Can a "non-pinned" barrel, have a groove filed into it to allow a pin to be used with it on a frame with the pin hole?

Prewar frame with a post war (Post 1980) cylinder? The cylinder would have it's star, I would need to find a rod and spring. I know the gun would need to be timed, but are there any issues or show stoppers I need to be aware of?
 
The 1980 cylinder would need a left-hand threaded extractor rod of course. The the points that need to be fit and correctly toleranced: barrel-to-cylinder gap, cartridge rim-to-recoil shield clearance ("headspace"), endshake, ratchet-to-frame fit, and hand-to-ratchet fit.

Generally, a cylinder made for a 1980's gun will fit into a contemporary frame with minimum fitting. Change the frame to one made a few decades earlier, and most bets are off.
 
Any time a barrel is swapped, it will, in all likelyhood have to be set back a turn, as previously mentioned. This needs to be done in order to time the thread so the front sight come up vertically. Besides adjusting for B/C gap and headspace/endshake, the forcing cone may need to be slightly recut in order to lengthen it again. If you put a new style non-recessed cylinder into an older gun which originally had a recessed type, the frame lug which holds the cylinder in place when the action is open may need some attention also.

Bruce
 
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