I was shown how well Hydrogen peroxide removes leading by an old-time local gunsmith.
I do not think it poses any health risks and it sure works well for me .
I use an earplug to plug one end of the barrel, then I pour hydrogen peroxide in and wait about half an hour. I then use a copper bore brush, I have had big lengths of lead come out of a 45 Colt revolver barrel.
It seems to loosen the bond between the lead and the barrel very well.
Does anyone know if there are any barrel hazards to this method ?
It sure seems to work well.

interesting...i knew of using mercury in this method in the old days....but have not heard of peroxide

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

I've used the old 2 parts white vinegar to 1 part HP mixture, but never straight HP.

From a chemical point of view, Hydrogen Peroxide is an oxidizing agent that furnishes an oxygen atom to combine with an available material. If it combines with iron or steel, it makes iron oxide (rust).

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Science plus Art

1 part hydrogen peroxide and 1 part vinegar is called ‘The Dip’ and used to clean suppressors. The dip will destroy aluminum.

The dip really should be avoided as it produces lead acetate(toxic). This stuff is absorbed through the skin and is a huge health risk. It also has to be left in to soak for hours, dip changed and soaked for more hours then changed again…..


If you want a quick way to remove lead fouling, get a ’Lewis Lead Remover’ from Brownells
The LLR uses brass patches. It’s a very quick and easy way to remove lead.
Just be sure to order extra brass patches

If your gun is a 22lr, then just use a bore snake

Stay away from ‘The Dip’

"The Dip" causes toxic problems because of the vinegar(acetic acid) in the mix.Lead in contact with acids produce dangerous compounds that the contact with hydrogen peroxide by itself will not.
Do not use the dip but the hydrogen peroxide is OK.Just keep the pH of whatever solution you use basic and not acidic.

white vinegar is good for removing bluing. Might not be best for cleaning blued guns.


Charlie

I have been using 1 part white vinegar 1 part Peroxide for years on stainless barrels. I don't have to leave it soak for "hours." 10 minutes usually does the trick. The lead gets gummy and releases from the barrel. I do understand that the remaining compound is a health hazard. Just a few more points- I have been told that it will remove bluing (I have never tried it in a blued gun). Don't premix the peroxide and vinegar. Mix only what you want to use that day. Apparently the mix loses it's potency. I have also soaked heavily soiled cylinders in a batch of the mix. It works great to remove lead from the face of the cylinder.
Mark

Get yourself a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownell's. Works great and takes 5 minutes. Will not hurt bore or cylinders.

This has been discussed in several other areas of the S&W Forum site.
In at least 2 of those places, the ultimate lead removing technique was agreed; wrap a layer of 100% copper kitchen pot scrubbing material around the brass brush and scrub 20X through bore.
It won't ever harm steel, it's dirt cheap and locally available in your supermarket, Rite-Aid drug store, etc. Sells under names like Scotch Brite or Chore Girl or some such. Two dollars will buy you several years' worth.
Cut it with scissors and wind it around the brass brush.
I used to swear by a chemically impregnated cloth which I placed over a jag and pounded through the bore... twisted lead slivers clattered out the end and that was usually the end of it. But occasionally even that didn't work... when it didn't, the copper covered brass brush DID.
Lewis Lead Removers are still around here and there... in my area they show up most often in the BP section of gun shops. Relative to Chore Girl copper scouring pads, Lewis products are expensive.

This is attacking the symptoms, not the problem, of course. The problem is usually soft lead, high velocity and/or poor lubing of cast bullets... though a rough bore can contribute, too.

g'luck