S&W V-model .38 Special is "stuck"!

I recently purchased a used Smith & Wesson Victory-type 38 Special revolver. I just got back from a trip to the range. I fired two groups of three rounds and then one more with six rounds (a full cylinder). I reloaded with six more and just started to squeeze the trigger with the hammer in the down position when I heard a quiet "click".

I was unable to squeeze the trigger (the hammer is in the "down" position) and I am unable to release the cylinder to take out the cartridges (a little disconcerting). The cylinder moves very slightly when I try to squeeze the trigger but nothing happens. The ammunition is Prvi factory loaded ammunition.

I did use the ejector to eject the last six cases - could the ejector be stuck in some way?

Any ideas or remedies?

Stuck Victory

The first thing I would check is that the extractor rod hasn't come loose.
It is a right hand thread.
Second thing I think of is a broken Hammer Stud.
(Had it happen too).
Be extra careful when working on a loaded gun!!!!

You couldn't ASK me to to be more careful - I don't LIKE the fact it is loaded! The only saving grace is that it isn't cocked!!

I saw this on a "fix" for the S&W 27 - would it work? If so, do you slide the card from the left or right side?

"...Second, an easy way to tighten the ejector rod enough to open the cylinder. Take a standard business card and insert it between the cylinder stop and the cylinder with a front to back motion. This will free up the cylinder so you can turn it by hand. Next, pinch your thumbnail hard on the knurling on the ejector rod and then spin the cylinder counterclockwise with thumb and forefinger. Because it's likely to be bound up a bit you can expect the knurling to grind a bit of your thumbnail away. However as you gain a bit on the threads it will become much easier to hold in place. When you get to the point where you cannot hold it fixed no matter how hard you try you should then be able to open the cylinder..."

I got the card between the cylinder as described above, but the cylinder still will not turn. I also note that the cylinder release catch on the left side needs to be pulled BACK instead of pushing it forward.

This is my second S&W that I've had problems!

First, that "click" you heard could be a squib that is jammed in the forcing cone. Try shining a flashlight on the B/C gap and see if you can see an air gap in this area. You may also want to take a thin shim and see if it will pass completely through the B/C gap, I suggest using a 0.003 inch valve shim. If you do have a sqib lodged in the BC/ gap you should be able to drive it back into the cylinder with a hardwood dowel. However be very careful you don't allow the muzzle to point in any unsafe direction while doing this.

I have to ask how much force you applied to the cylinder and in which direction you tried to rotate it. On this early model you should have been turning it in a clockwise direction with that card blocking the cylinder stop. I would also suggest that you push the trigger forward before starting, this should release the hand from the ratchet. It may also take a bit more force than you applied, however how much force to apply is admittedly a matter of judgement.

Second, take a good close look at the unfired rounds in the cylinder, specifically look to see if by some chance you have a cartridge that was way over the length specification and has a bullet poking out the front of the cylinder. In this case if that "long" round is jammed into the barrel, using that card on the cylinder stop and a bit more force to get that bullet clear of the barrel should allow you to get the cylinder open. What you will want to do is rotate the cylinder so that "long" round is opposite the barrel, there is plenty of additional clearance in this area and you'll then be able to open the cylinder. NOTE, turn the cylinder clockwise in this case.

You didn't mention if the cylinder release will move either forward or back. It's possible that the bolt that the cylinder release is attached to has broken and is jamming the hammer. In that case it's likely you'll find the cylinder release won't move in either direction. In this case you'll have to remove the sideplate and then the hammer to gain access to the bolt.

If the cylinder release will move forward and spring back normally, I would suspect 2 possible problems.

One is that you have an ejector rod that has really wedged itself in or powder under the extractor has jammed the extractor into the recoil shield. If this is the case a bit more force may free it up.

Second possibility is that that hand has broken and it's wedged into the ratchet. If that is the case the only option is to remove the sideplate and pry it free from inside the lockwork.

Obviously, with a loaded gun you'll want to be extremely careful about insuring the muzzle is always pointed in a safe direction. If you have a sandbank or some sort of dirt berm available, I would urge you to use that to insure complete safety in the rare event the gun fires. I would also suggest using a faceguard and wearing good leather work gloves. While I can't forsee your doing anything to cause the gun to fire, it never hurts to be too safe.

If you don't know the lockwork in these guns with your eyes closed, I would suggest that you try and find a local gunsmith familiar with S&W revolvers. Fact is there is always some risk to trying to repair a loaded firearm and it's far safer to pay a professional to fix it. In addition, if you were to injure yourself it will prove to be a lot more expensive that paying a gunsmith to repair it.

You, sir, are a genius!! It was indeed a squib. The thing that concerns me is this was factory ammunition, (Prvi Partizan) not some cheap reload. I tapped out the bullet and the pistol works fine. My sincere thanks!

Not a genius, just very very methodical.

Now a word on the Prvi Partizan. Spend enough time on gun forums and you'll find it's ranked just barely above reloads. It's budget ammo at the low end of the scale and you can expect problems like this on occasion. Personally, I prefer American Eagle for range use, while it does cost a bit more my experience has shown that it's a very well made ammunition. The Fedral Champion is another superb range ammo, however in some loadings it's a bit "lighter" in terms of ballistics compared to the American Eagle.

Rick,

I have experienced squibs from different manufacturers, American Eagle in .38, Buffalo Bore in 9mm, to name just two. If you shoot enough, you're gonna have that happen, albeit in a very small percentage of rounds fired. You may have gotten yours "out-of-the-way and done".
I applaud your very hip situational awareness in sensing that your gun was not performing correctly. It could have been worse for the gun or tragic for the shooter, had the round NOT bound the gun and let the squibbed bullet lodge part-way down the barrel. In this case the next fired round could case injury-causing detonation, a "ka-boom", if you will.
It's good when we pay attention to what we are doing and stop when unexpected results are encountered.

Good-on-ya,
Mike

Like I said, just a surprise with new, factory ammo. I had a feeling that PP wasn't the best, but not to the extent of the squib. My plan is to shoot up what I have (being VERY careful after this!) and then reloading. I've reloaded .45 for over a year with nary a problem, not even a dud.