I bought a SW 15-3 38 special revolver from a forum member. I did the transfer last night. When inspecting the revolver I noticed that the cylinder does not open freely. It is sticking. 2 of the 6 chambers are the worse. 1 of those 2 are bad.

When the cylinder sticks I notice if I push it rearward and out it then swings open and doesn't stick as much.

I called SW and they said I have a 7 month wait. They don't think it is a major thing. Maybe 100 to fix.

My question to you guys is this:
1. Should I try to find a gunsmith who specializes in SW revolvers?
2. Can someone recommend one?
3. Should I bite the bullet and wait the 7 months?
4. Anyone ever have this problem and know the fix?

The revolver was cleaned very well. So it is not dirt.
Thanks.

It may be the extractor rod is not completely tight. You can use an extractor tool and use a vise, smooth jaw, and before you tighten the rod, insert dummy rounds in each of the cylinder chambers as not to twist the extractor guides, and the treads are left handed so grasp the cylinder and tighten the rod counter clockwise. Nine times out of ten, it will solve the problem. Also, check the forcing cone and make sure it is clean and free of carbon. Check the face of the cylinder to see the surface is free of carbon. Check the bolt release to see if it is engaging correctly. You may also have a bent extractor rod. The process of elimination is your best source to solving a problem.

Nick

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NRA Instructor\GCA Gunsmith

Try loosing the front side plate screw, it holds the yoke in the revolver, this screw is usually fitted to the yoke, and it may have been mixed up with one of the other side plate screws during a cleaning.

Is there a possibility that someone has had the side plate off and may have mixed up the front and middle screws? The front screw (that holds the yoke) is fitted and if the middle screw was used in error it could cause drag and the condition you describe. Try swapping them.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Watch this instructional to check for a bent extractor rod.
Youtube has instructional videos on all diagnosis and repairs most can be done at home with basic tools and the knowledge of how ro do it

Gunsmithing - How to Repair a Bent Extractor Rod on S&W Revolvers - YouTube

Loosen the front yoke screw a half turn. If that works then the problem is that the screw has not been fitted properly, has been mixed up with the center screw, or simply replaced and not fitted correctly.

Extractor rod is not bent. Just checked.
The gun is very clean.
The extractor rod seems snug.

The side plate screws are chewed up. Someone has been in the revolver. What screws go where on the side plate?

I do notice the cylinder latch sometimes feels a bit funny. Almost like it doesn't want to spring back 100%. To be more accurate it is a delay to seat back into place.

I don't know what the bolt release is?

Make sure you don't have a cracked barrel forcing cone. If cracked it could be pressing down on the crane. Could be as a result of shooting +P ammo.

Forcing cone is not cracked. I think it has something to do with the cylinder latch,the internals of the ejector rod.

Check gap between barrel and front of cylinder. You need a gap there. If no gap you need to shim or lengthen cylinder yolk barrel. Any good gunsmith can do that. You could even do it yourself.

I have a gauge and 006 makes it in with a little pushing. I don't have a 005. I would think 005 would go in without helping it along.

What is the spec for the gap between the bbl and cylinder?

Your cylinder to barrel gap is perfect.
Does the crane seem to " stick " at one spot or is it stiff the whole way?
Have you tryed to swing it out with the front side plate screw removed?
What about removing and cleaning the crane surfaces?

Use your feeler gauge and check the gap on each charge hole between cylinder and forcing cone. You might find it doesn't fit between 2 of them. That would probably be a bent ejector rod or yoke.
Ed

How much endshake is there?

I will check the gap tonight on every chamber. That is a good point because 4 chambers are better then others.

How do I measure end shake. The cylinder seems tight. No wobble or front and back.

Thank you very much all of you.

There are tutorials on how to check and fix every problem on S&W revolvers on Youtube

Here is a link to the Endshake one
Gunsmithing - Correcting Excess Cylinder Endshake on a S&W Revolver - YouTube

Thank you for that video. My gap is .006-.008 depending on the chamber.


ETA: I think I fixed this revolver. Thanks for all the help. From what I can see the ejector rod was not 100% tight. I tightened it up and that helped. I also switched the screws. The yolk screw was not in the right place.

The cylinder open up much better now. The 2 chambers where is was very bad still stick a little but nothing like it did. I am going to get new side plate screws and see if that helps.
All in all like night and day.

Thanks again Guys. After I shoot it I hope it doesn't happen again.

NP, the learning curve is steep at first but those videos helped me alot.
Midway has a tutorial for every firearm ailment and I actually will sometimes watch one prior to working on a firearm for a quick refresher.

I suffer from an illness known as C.R.S. an abbreviation for Cant Remember..........uh...I cant remember the last word...oh well.