Cylinder will not rotate, sometimes

Retired W4

Retired W4

US Veteran
Gold Supporter
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
10,684
Reaction score
25,955
Location
Atlanta area
I have a Heavy Duty that I fired for the first time today. The timing seems to be good, cylinder stop drops and locks in prior to hammer locking back. It has very little rotational and end play. While firing single action every now and then the hammer will not rotate the cylinder. The hammer just sticks and nothing happens. I open the cylinder and close it and it works again for a while and then it happens again. I tried dry firing with no problem and I tried putting spent cases in and can not duplicate.

Scrubbed ratchet star and cleaned ratchet and under it and did not see any problem. I was using UMC LRN, new Black Hills 148 wad cutters and Samson +P and all had the same problem so I don't think it's ammo related. It occurs intermittently. I have not had the side plate off yet. Any ideas as to why this happens?

BTW, I have not shot it after the cleaning.
 
I second that, I think it's likely gummed up inside. My next step would be a disassembly of the revolver and thorough cleaning.
 
I don't disagree with any of the other responses.

Have you opened the yoke and tested the extractor rod screw for tightness?

I believe that the same thing happened to me on Saturday with my "new to me" Model 19-5. I always fire single action. The first 32 rounds went off without a hitch. Then when I tried to pull the hammer back it would only come back about half way. The cylinder also would not rotate.

After leaving early from the range and going down to my shop the first thing that I checked was that extractor rod. Bigger than sin I could tighten or remove it with just my two fingers. I snugged it up then opened the side plate. Clean as a whistle. Hit it with a soft toothbrush and some Rem oil then reassembled it. It's working properly now but I ordered the tool from Brownells so that I can tighten it correctly (tighter).

A gunsmith has recommended that I consider using a very, very small amount of Loctite Blue 242 Threadlocker, if the tool doesn't keep it tight.

Just my $ .02.
 
Last edited:
BSeabrooke said:
I don't disagree with any of the other responses.

Have you opened the yoke and tested the extractor rod screw for tightness?

I believe that the same thing happened to me on Saturday with my "new to me" Model 19-5. I always fire single action. The first 32 rounds went off without a hitch. Then when I tried to pull the hammer back it would only come back about half way. The cylinder also would not rotate.

After leaving early from the range and going down to my shop the first thing that I checked was that extractor rod. Bigger than sin I could tighten or remove it with just my two fingers. I snugged it up then opened the side plate. Clean as a whistle. Hit it with a soft toothbrush and some Rem oil then reassembled it. It's working properly now but I ordered the tool from Brownells so that I can tighten it correctly (tighter).

A gunsmith has recommended that I consider using a very, very small amount of Loctite Blue 242 Threadlocker, if the tool doesn't keep it tight.

Just my $ .02.
Click to expand...

The gun is completely disassembled at the time for cleaning. BTW, it was pretty clean to my surprise. Once assembled I will check for tightness when I put it back together.
 
That's the same situation that I have. I expected it to be dirty and/or gummed up from excessive or the incorrect lubricants. It was clean and dry in relatively good condition for a 25-year old revolver.


Update: You may already know this from other posts on this same subject. Other, past postings by other, more experienced owners have recommended inserting 3-4 spent casings in to the cylinder when tightening the ejector rod nut/screw to support the extractor and avoid damage. I'm off to my local range on Wednesday to pick some up.
 
Last edited:
Well, The ejector rod was plenty snug but while assembling the gun with the side plate still off I noticed that the hammer sometimes will not clear the cylinder latch. It just misses by a hair. Can I take just that much metal off the cylinder latch where it blocks the hammer? Or is there another remedy?
 
Disregard that last post. I was doing the check without the cylinder fully seated. Now that it is everything works well. I now believe some carbon on the latch spring was keeping it from returning all the way back. Problem solved I think. It's off to the range for the real check.
 
Well, the gun performed very well until I fed it +P ammo, and that's when the hammer would not come back. After a thorough examination the only thing I can find wrong is the center pin in the ejector rod is very sluggish. When pushing on the rear of the center pin it returns very slowly. And with the cylinder closed and the cylinder release is pushed forward it returns very slowly. BTW, with the cylinder open the latch returns quickly, so is must be, I think, some sludge or something holding up the center pin. Can't get the ejector rod off by hand and I don't have the tool so more drastic measures must be taken. I believe the ejector rod is RH thread with a SN of S 88598. I'll have to look that up before I try to turn it the wrong way. It is on there pretty tight.
 
Another possibility is a few cases with slightly higher than normal primers. They can rub against the recoil shield and retard cylinder rotation.
 
I did have a loose ejector rod. Purchased this tool from Brownells: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...actor-tools/extractor-rod-tool-prod26886.aspx

It worked like a charm. I also used a "field expedient" to test the extractor rod to determine if it was bent. I held the end of a toothbrush close to the cylinder and turned it using the end of the extractor rod to visually look for changes in the distance. No problems.

Here's the instructions for my tool which confirms your belief that it's a right-hand thread:

"HOW TO USE

Late style S&W ejector rods have left-hand threads, most are marked with a line or groove cut next to the knurling on the end of the ejector rod. Intermediate or older S&W ejector rods have right-hand threads.

With the extractor star properly supported, slide the ejector rod tool down over the ejector rod, as close to the cylinder as possible to prevent bending the rod.

Tighten the clamping screw until the tool is tight on the ejector rod and unscrew by hand. Do not apply excessive force to unscrew the rod. Be sure you know if the rod has left-or right-hand threads. If you do not know for certain on the threads, try turning easily both ways to unscrew the ejector rod."

I also called Brownells and spoke with one of their technical support representatives.

I also agree with DFrame's response, especially since the problem was not present with any of the other ammo that you used, only the +P. Additionally, I am wondering if there could be carbon, debris, etc. in the extractor rod assembly, or if it is dry and could use some Rem oil.
 
OK. Here's the deal. When the experts tell you not to put thread locker on the ejector rod this is why. Some one, at some time used some kind of thread locker on the ejector rod and the resulting seepage onto the center pin resulted in what appeared to be gummy varnish looking stuff on the pin and the inside of the rod. When I held the cylinder with the face up on a hard surface, depressed the pin, it took the pin a little over one second to recover when the pressure was released. It's not supposed to work like that. I was so surprised that I had my wife press on the back of the pin on one of my HP's and then on the HD. She was surprised at the difference.

Explaining how that would stop the hammer from coming back is just too much for me right now. I would like to thank all who helped me with suggestions on this save as I have never seen anything quite like this. This is a great place to learn about S&W revolvers.

Here is the gun that has taken up so much of my time lately. I think it was worth it.
 

Attachments

  • HD finished 002.jpg
    HD finished 002.jpg
    273.8 KB · Views: 41
Hammer wouldn't come back because the center of the ejector rod was forward from recoil of +P and when it is forward the plunger piece that it presses in center of recoil shield allows the cylinder latch to move forward and it has a block on it that stops the hammer in that position. Same reason you can't cock the hammer when the cylinder is open unless you hold the thumb piece back.
 
Last edited:
steelslaver said:
Hammer wouldn't come back because the center of the ejector rod was forward from recoil of +P and when it is forward the plunger piece that it presses in center of recoil shield allows the cylinder latch to move forward and it has a block on it that stops the hammer in that position. Same reason you can't cock the hammer when the cylinder is open unless you hold the thumb piece back.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir. That is absolutely what I was thinking. Saved me a lot of typing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Cylinder won't reliably rotate on K frame
Replies
3
Views
432
baird
B
P
29-2 tight cylinder rotation
Replies
8
Views
554
Vtgw938
Vtgw938
S
Model 10-8 Sticky Spot in Cylinder Rotation
Replies
19
Views
1K
armorer951
armorer951
jimmyj
Cylinder Rod
Replies
5
Views
507
stansdds
S
flundertaker
Cylinder Release & Screw
Replies
6
Views
458
heeter3
H

Latest posts

Back
Top