Hoppe's #9 and bluing
 

Back in the "good old days" I carried a model 19 and the Hoppe's flowed freely after range training. We cleaned the bore and the cylinder with it. And a general wipe down to clean it off. We did not particularly concern ourselves with the looks but rather the function as a necessary tool. And I don't recall any lead build up at all.

Anyway, I just recently got back into shooting. The only blued revolver that I have is a very recently acquired model 17-3. It was used but in pretty darned good shape. Someone recently told me that Hoppes is intended for the bore and will damage the bluing.

I have used M-Pro 7 gun cleaner, Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner, and even a little CLP cleaner/lube. Overall they seemed to work but for some heavier lead accumulation along the top near the forcing cone and on the cylinder (front outside not the front of the cylinder) persist.

Would Hoppe's #9 clean up these spots better. Not talking about soaking just wiping and letting it set of a couple minutes before wiping off and cleaning up with one of the others that I mentioned as gun cleaners.

Just wondering since I had never heard that Hoppe's #9 hurt bluing until recently.

I had never heard No 9 was hard on bluing. It certainly can be hard on nickle but I've bathed blued guns in it for years and never noticed anything.

I thought I read something here on the forum that the much newer blued S&W's should not be cleaned with Hoppes No 9. But I have used Hoppes No 9 for years with no bad effect on the blueing of my older smiths. I have also read its bad for nickel but I have never had a problem. Although I don't use it now on nickel as a precaution. But I think its safe for the older blued guns

I can assure you, Hoppe's No 9 will not harm bluing in any way. For about 18 years I cleaned a, 1968 issue, Model 14 by hanging it in a heated, vibrator cleaner, from 20 minutes to 16 hours, with no ill effects.

I only wish that I had access to such a cleaner today. It completely removed lead with no bore brushing at all.

As long as we are referring to traditional bluing, in my experience, I have not had any problems from Hoppe's No. 9 and I have not heard of anyone else having a problem.
John
Scoundrel and Ne'er-Do-Well in Training

Traditional bluing is, traditionally, good to go with Hoppes 9; certainly been my experience.

Apparently, S&W now says in their current manuals not to use ammoniated or strong alkaline cleaners; H9 contains ammonium hydroxide, a strong alkaline.

There was a long thread a couple months back where the OP said his current build blued S&W revolver's finish was ruined by H9. Pretty incredible, if correct:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-rev...-new-57-a.html

There are at least three significantly different vintages of Hoppe’s #9. It is likely that “back in the good old days” the OP, Sconnie, cleaned his 19 using early #9 that contained benzene. Outer’s Gunslick and Sears solvents were also labeled as containing “nitro-benzene” and probably were just repackaged Hoppe’s #9. Benzene was identified as a carcinogen then eliminated from bore solvents. I have not found a benzene free replacement that is as good at removing lead. Benzene free Hoppe’s #9 soldiered on mostly on the strength of its continued use of “petroleum distillates”, kerosene and ammonia.

With or without the benzene older #9 did not harm bluing and despite a persistent rumor, #9 did not harm S&W’s nickel plating. Ammonia is in many bore solvents because it reacts with copper and the gilding metal fouling left by jacketed bullets. However, ammonia does not react with nickel, and S&W never used a copper under plating beneath their nickel.

I’ll leave it to someone else to say whether solvents that contain ammonia harm the nickel plated guns made by other manufacturers who under plate with copper. One way or the other ammonia was removed from current Hoppe’s #9. I have no experience with the newest #9, and I have no experience with what ever substitute is being passed off as bluing today.

I really appreciate the input and Hoppe's #9 will be on my list to try again for this gun. But I really appreciate the link to the other thread about new S&W bluing versus #9.

I passed that info on to a couple of fellas I worked with and who are shooters/hunters just in case either of them take the plunge on a new S&W.

I wouldn't try Hoppe's #9 if I were you--the S&W revolver manual says "Ammoniated solvents or strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."

Hoppe's #9, according to their MSDS from their very own website, still contains Ammonium hydroxide. This is an alkaline that also (obviously) makes Hoppes Ammoniated.
http://www.hoppes.com/Hoppes/media/F...orecleaner.pdf

There is nothing to be gained by risking using it, and a lot to be lost. Not worth it, IMHO.

Good stuff about the blueing and Hoppe's, as far as the bore leading I use two methods to remove it. A Lewis lead remover is used for the heavy stubborn stuff. For moderate and light leading I use a clean dry snug fitting bronze bore brush and a dry bore, it wont hurt a thing, also a good method to get rid of carbon rings in the cylinder.

Well all I can say is that I have been cleaning firearms since I was 11 (I am 61 now) and before I discovered Rig #2, I ALWAYS used Hoppes #9 - even on Nickeled gun ( which at the time I did not know that they suggested NOT to use Hoppes on). If I get a used gun that is all gunked up I STILL will soak the entire gun and all disassembled parts in a tub containing Hoppes. I've had ZERO problems with any gun!

Maybe the more modern Smiths are blued differently than they use to be, but then again I have no Smith newer than 1994. While I stopped using the Hoppes on Nickeled guns I have had no issues with them either. Just saying........

Man, wipe that old 17-3 down all you like with Hoppes #9. It won't hurt the finish. I've cleaned my older S&W's for over 40 years without issue and still do. Whatever S&W is selling now days on their new guns as a blue job that wipes off with Hoppes is garbage. Curiously, a new Ruger can still be wiped down and cleaned with #9 with no ill effects.

My father cleaned his Model 10 service revolver with # 9 in the 40's and 50's, I started using it on my 28, 10 and 36 in the 60's and use it to this day on all my revolvers, including stainless. As a matter of fact after shooting I spray the gun down, including cylinder and bore and let it sit for an hour or two. Wipes off to a clean shine. I then clean the bore and chambers with Kroil and detail with a Q tip soaked in Kroil. Then finish with Hornady One Shot and wipe down with a cloth soaked in Silicone spray for storage. The only wear on the bluing is from the holsters.

I have a newer S&W 586-8 (about 2 years old) that has been cleaned many times with Hoppes No 9 and I see no ill effects.
If the owners manual does indeed say not to use it, I may have not read that part. Regardless, Hoppes No 9 has not damaged the bluing on my gun.

I have always used hoppes #9...no problem...I did read on this board somewhere that a member cleaned a new blued smith with it and it removed some of the bluing...he called S&W and they are looking at it but they said he should not have used it...I don't know as I don't have a new blued smith

You mean like this?
 

I recently brought this home from the cabin where my dad probably left it about 1980. One pint of aromatic aftershave in a glass bottle, with a price tag of $5.95. I promise not to use it on any guns newer than the cleaner.

I am actually surprised that I don't have a 1980's vintage bottle of the stuff laying around. Just recently got back into shooting after a long layoff from that period and I just don't toss things if they can be tucked away for someday.

Smith changed their bluing process in the past few years. The new process removed some of the harmful chemicals as mandated by the EPA. The new process is no where near as durable or resistant to cleaners as the old stuff.

Be warned when dealing with new blued guns, several cleaners (not just hoppes 9) will take the bluing right off new smiths.

I miss those big glass jugs.

Plastic jugs nowadays. :rolleyes:

No, the Hoppes will not harm the bluing of your gun,it s the use of harsh materials, rough rags, shop towels, etc, and a heavy hand, hard rubbing, can and will dull and wear the guns finish.....the Hoppes is made for the bore, use it there, and if a little spills out, over or runs down the guns surface, just wipe it off..............front of the cylinder, and around the inner window frame ( cylinder opening in the frame) you use Hoppes to help clean any fouling around these areas.......YES, a Wipe Away, or Lead Remover type "wipes", the chemicals in those WILL cause harm to a blued guns finish, again, if over used, we do use them from time to time, just use caution or do NOT ,if any doubt...we tell folks to use what works for YOU and have handy,,,,,,for the most part we use simple kerosene.;)

You obviously havent been reading previous posts or the several threads on the forum which are discussing Hoppes removing bluing from new guns.

S&W specifically states in their manuals NOT to use any cleaning products with ammonia (like hoppes) as it will damage the finish. The process S&W uses to blue guns has changed and the new finish does not hold up like the old days.

Making a gun.....
 

Making a gun that is damaged by traditional and mainstream gun cleaning products is the height of non-smartedness. I wouldn't have believed this could be true. :(:(:(