Bullet stuck...

truckemup97

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Took a 66 to the range today and had an interesting experience. Fired a couple of cylinders with no problem, and then the third shot on the third cylinder, fire blew out between the cylinder and the forcing cone. I unloaded and inspected, and found a bullet stuck in the barrel. I'm guessing that round had no powder. Now I need to remove the bullet, but I don't want to damage the gun. I tried pushing it backward with a cleaning rod, but I didn't want to force it.

What's the best way to get it out? And what do I need to look for to be sure it didn't do any damage to the barrel? It's a jacketed flat nose if it makes any difference.
 
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It is called a squib and happens to most reloaders sooner or later. You need a brass rod close to diameter of barrel. Give it a liberal dose of gun oil and let it sit awhile. Then gently tap out with a hammer. Lead comes out easy and jacketed bullets with a little more force. It may help to put the frame in a padded vice. A wooden dowel may splinter and jam between bullet and barrel, making your problem worse. A steel rod may damage the barrel. A 5/16" rod from the hardware store will work or you can purchase an official caliber size range rod from an online gun stuff supplier. This has never happened to me ;)

Good thing you didn't try to shoot another one behind it, which is hazardous to the health of firearm and shooter.
 
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Drop a segment of old aluminum or brass shotgun rod in the bore and rap on it with a mallet. If it's only one bullet it should come right out and there will be no damage. Your description of flame spitting out the flash gap is a concern. You don't get much or any of that with just a primer. A primer alone will push a bullet into the barrel creating an obstruction. If that isn't removed before the next shot you get a bulge.

Ideally you'd run down to Ace Hardware and buy a length of solid brass 5/16" rod. The trouble is the price for 3 foot lengths has risen to $17! They have 1 foot lengths of 3/16" for use with .22s for $2 but I haven't been able to find 1 foot lengths of 5/16".
 
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STUCK BULLET(S)

Truck: FWIW, this happened to me with a revolver during my early years of reloading. Didn't know there was separate load data in the manual for lead & jacketed bullets. Chose the lightest lead load & loaded up jacketed bullets, which have more resistance in the bore. Piled up three before I thought to check the barrel. Since there's a barrel/cylinder gap, the burning powder exited there. Not noticeable in bright desert sun.

Point I want to make is that if you saw flame coming out the b/c gap, that might have been a charged cartridge & you already had a squib in the barrel. If using a brass rod doesn't budge the stuck bullet, that may be a safe presumption. You can't hammer out two bullets.

I turned my rev over to a very skilled gunsmith/machinist who, using a vertical drill press, drilled them out w/out touching the rifling.

Good Luck, Hank
 
Tap it out like stated above, I doubt you did any barrel damage, you caught it in time.

It happens to everyone sooner or later.
 
Thanks, gentlemen. They were "factory" reloads, not any I did. I hope there's just one in there, but now I'm wondering. I guess I should have counted the holes in the paper. I'll stop by Ace in the AM and pick up a rod.
 
Did your other shots have any recoil?
If so they probably went out the barrel just fine.
 
I'm sure some will vehemently object but I just use a phillips head screw driver as long as the shaft is slightly smaller than the barrel. The pointed part of the tip is centered so there is no risk of it touching the inside of the barrel and helps center the blow on the center of the stuck bullet. Works for me.
 
The risk in using a philips head screw driver is its tip will want to slide down the side of the bullet’s nose. If it gets whacked in that canted position you’d be pounding relatively hard tool steel into soft steel rifling. The larger the bore the higher the risk. Having S&W replace a barrel with a new one runs around $300 to $350 for most revolvers. S&W does not have any more traditional one piece Model 66 barrels and they say they never will make them again. Why take the risk?
 
Obviously, if you get no recoil, don't attempt to fire another round. You have to be pretty clueless to end up with two bullets stuck in the barrel.

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A little flash through the gap is normal with an uncharged case, in part because the temperature of the gasses are cooler and in the yellow to orange range before they exit, so you see them better than you do the larger amount of hotter gas with a regular shot, in daylight conditions.

However, if the bullet is lodged well down the bore, then it's possible it was a significantly underweight charge, as a primer will normally only drive the bullet just into the bore.

Also when the round is just driven into the bore with a primer, it does not usually obturate fully into the bore and can usually be pushed out or very lightly tapped out with a cleaning rod.

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Whether you use a cleaning rod and an appropriate caliber brass cleaning jag to tap it out, or a close to bore diameter brass rod, you want to be sure to protect the crown on the barrel. Damaging the crown will hurt the accuracy of the barrel a lot more than damaging the rifling near the forcing cone.

My preference when removing a stuck bullet is to use a steel cleaning rod with a solid brass jag and a muzzle guide.
 
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Only had one squib thus far (knock on wood). A reload that got stuck in my 32-20 due to a lack of powder for the primer to ignite. :rolleyes:
I used a 7" aluminum gutter nail to pound it back out. You'll find them at most any hardware store. Usually sold in packs of ten and for less than ten bucks.
Cut the pointy end off with a hacksaw and dress down any sharp edges with a file. You end up with a 6 1/2" soft aluminum rod with a nice broad head to whack. Works for 32 caliber and larger. I've also used it to slug bores on several of my hand guns. No experience with jacketed bullets but it works great on the lead variety.
John
 
I would agree with K22fan except he missed a very important part of my description. The screw driver shaft should be just slightly smaller than the barrel. The one I use is perfect for 9mm or 38 special. It will barely wobble, no way the point could touch the inside of the barrel. If you used a thin shaft on a 45 then yes what K22fan described might happen. Use the proper tool and it will work out fine.
 
Truck: FWIW, this happened to me with a revolver during my early years of reloading. Didn't know there was separate load data in the manual for lead & jacketed bullets. Chose the lightest lead load & loaded up jacketed bullets, which have more resistance in the bore. Piled up three before I thought to check the barrel. Since there's a barrel/cylinder gap, the burning powder exited there. Not noticeable in bright desert sun.

I just have to ask.....how do you get three bullets stuck in the barrel without noticing after the first one ??? I would think you are lucky not to have been maimed.:eek:
 
I am cringing after reading most of the above answers and advice. Guys, we have had this discussion almost once a year on this forum. Yes, some of these methods work IF the circumstances are right and you are LUCKY, but all of them can cause the problem to compound IF the circumstances are not right.

After years of experience removing bullets from barrels and having to pull many barrels because of complications from the owner's first attempt to remove, I say this:

Don't use wood, aluminum or steel rods. period end of story. Don't drive something in that will spread the bullet into the bore. Don't mount the handgun in a vise and pound on anything!

Do this: Obtain a brass or less likely a bronze rod as close to the bore diameter as possible. Remove the cylinder. Over a very solid flat surface place the rod well greased into the bore. Grasp the frame in both hand with one finder holding the brass rod in place. Firmly tap the handgun/rod assembly downward on the solid surface. BTW, the rod should have been marked using a broad marker pen to allow you to see and determine movement. Do this tapping very firmly and watch for movement of the rod. After making your hands tired and NOT getting any movement take the handgun to a pistolsmith. You have more than one bullet in the bore.
The pistolsmith will pull the barrel and measure from both ends of the barrel to determine just how many bullets are lodged. There are few options for the pistolsmith depending on if the bullets are lead or copper jacketed. It doesn't get pretty from this point on.

But, my advice is: A brass range rod can save the day using the muzzle down technique at the range with ONE bullet lodged. I carry one properly sized for 22, 38/357 and 41 calibers. Anything more complicated than one bullet is a pistolsmith job if you don't want to chance total ruin of that barrel and you value its continued accuracy. .................
 
I may be missing something, but, if you're not sure how many bullets are in a barrel, can't you measure in from both ends to determine the length of the obstruction without pulling the barrel?
 
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If you are brave, you can use an old gunsmiths trick of pouring mercury down on top of the bullet (if lead or open based).... this liquifies the lead into an amalgam you can get out easier... let it sit for a while to get the most effect (overnight should do) on the bullet.

Know that this method is hazardous, and you want to research using mercury, and use it safely/responsibly. It aint a joke, but can be used responsibly.

PS don't tell the EPA......
 
In 30 years of reloading mostly pistol ammo, I've had to deal with a few dozen stuck bullets, most were either from wimpy primers or a lack of powder, either a light charge or none at all. I shoot mostly plated bullets, which are fairly easy to remove......the cores are soft and the plating isn't very thick, or hard. Jacketed bullets can be a lot more difficult to remove.

If the round had no powder, the impetus from the primer is usually just enough to wedge the bullet in the forcing cone, or just past it. A piece of soft steel rod has worked fine for me with 99% of these, I put the rod down the barrel, hold the gun firmly, shield the muzzle with the heel of my hand, and jam the rod against a concrete wall or something equally hard. One or two whacks with the cylinder open and the bullet generally pops right out. Sometimes the bullet stops between the cylinder and the forcing cone, so the cylinder won't open, but those bullets are usually the easiest to push back into the case.



But once in awhile you get one that really jams in there, and you have to work pretty hard to get it out. This was a plated bullet that lodged halfway down a 6" barrel, and it defied my efforts to get it out, in fact I probably made it worse by not putting some penetrating oil in there first, it was jammed in there pretty tight. After adding oil and letting it sit overnight I got it out with no damage to the barrel, but it was a long fight. The 158-grain slug's plating eventually split and the core stretched to over twice its original length, the resulting obstruction came out looking like this!



My tool of choice is a 5" piece of mild steel, it was the rod from my 38 Special Lee Loader, purchased several decades ago. It now resides in my shooting box full-time.

I can't recall sticking a bullet in a rifle-length barrel, but my removal method would involve a close fitting rod, a lot of oil, and plenty of patience.
 
As collectorden stated using an old flintlock shooters trick, place a rod in from the muzzle end and mark the rod with a marker when it bottoms out. Now take something a little more flexible, like the bare copper ground wire from a piece of romex and insert it in from the cylinder end and mark it when it bottoms out. You will now have the dimensions from each end and this should give you a good idea when compared to the length of the barrel, how many boolits are stuck. (don't you just love that word???)

I agree with those that suggest a brass rod just slightly smaller than the bore diameter and sand, grind or file the bullet end just slightly to remove the square edge. You are not trying to make it pointed just ease the sharp edge. Stand the gun up overnight barrel up and pour in some good penetrating oil like Kroil or even motor oil to lube the barrel. Probably wouldn't hurt to drip some in from the cylinder end as well as that is the way you will be driving the projectile.

A few good taps on the rod and the boolit should begin to reverse course.

If any of this sounds scary, take it to a good gunsmith and let a professional do the work. :D
 

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