Super Chief
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I've read on here that a Brass Brush is best for cleaning lead deposits off the end of the cylinder. Would this not mess up the finish on Blued and Nickel guns?
Brass Brush?
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breakerofwind
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Brass brush
I've never had a problem with using a brash brush on blued firearms and never had a problem. If it bothers you, though, try applying a good solvent to the affected area and let it sit for awhile, say 30 to 60 minutes, before using an old rag to rub the deposits off. Repeat the treatment until the deposit is gone.
Don't have a nickel coated firearm so I can't comment on that.
I've never had a problem with using a brash brush on blued firearms and never had a problem. If it bothers you, though, try applying a good solvent to the affected area and let it sit for awhile, say 30 to 60 minutes, before using an old rag to rub the deposits off. Repeat the treatment until the deposit is gone.
Don't have a nickel coated firearm so I can't comment on that.
OP
Super Chief
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I just didn't wanna take a Brass Brush to my new M27 to get at the Lead Deposits on the cylinder and screw the finish up, Lead deposits don't bother me that bad lol. Is a Copper Brush good? I have a Copper brush right now, Nylon did nothing but make it smoother to the touch.
My nickel M29 gets a kinda dirty in the same spots on the cylinder but it's always come off
My nickel M29 gets a kinda dirty in the same spots on the cylinder but it's always come off
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MichiganScott
Member
I've never had a problem with brass on blued either.
Pisgah
Member
Brass, nylon, bronze and copper brushes will do no harm. Don't use stainless steel brushes, though.
bob richardson
Member
I only use the brass/bronze brushes in the bore.Nylon on the blue and nickel finishes.Flitz or Mother's takes the powder residue off the cylinder faces.
They take off the blueing, too!
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SC,
Don't get CRAZY with cleaning the cylinder face too much! The first time you shoot again it will be back. On guns that I shoot often I just use a nylon brush to take off excess accumulation but the rings are still there. Too much cleaning with Bronze or Brass will eventually remove bluing and like I said, it comes right back anyway.
A Lead-A-way cloth from Birchwood Casey also works, but again, you are fighting a loosing battle with cylinder face rings. I would NOT use it on a weekly basis!
Don't get CRAZY with cleaning the cylinder face too much! The first time you shoot again it will be back. On guns that I shoot often I just use a nylon brush to take off excess accumulation but the rings are still there. Too much cleaning with Bronze or Brass will eventually remove bluing and like I said, it comes right back anyway.
A Lead-A-way cloth from Birchwood Casey also works, but again, you are fighting a loosing battle with cylinder face rings. I would NOT use it on a weekly basis!
dfariswheel
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Note that the "Lead-away" type cloths WILL strip the bluing right off and may be harmful for nickel.
The best thing you can do about the carbon and lead build up on a blued or bright nickel revolver is...... leave it alone.
All you're going to do is eventually damage the finish.
The only time you need to do something is in the rare case where leading builds up to the point where it starts to rub against the rear of the barrel.
In that case, soak it for a few hours with a bore solvent and scrub gently with a brass "toothbrush", which will NOT harm bluing.
Usually, the high temp blast of firing will keep the excess off the cylinder face and you'll have no problems.
If what you want to do is remove all traces of carbon or leading just to make it look "nicer" or unfired, you WILL damage the finish sooner or later.
In any case, the carbon stains are burned into the bluing and are not removable.
This is sort of like trying to make your car tires look like the car hasn't been driven.
If you drive it, they look used.
Shoot your revolver and it's going to have stains on the cylinder face.
The best thing you can do about the carbon and lead build up on a blued or bright nickel revolver is...... leave it alone.
All you're going to do is eventually damage the finish.
The only time you need to do something is in the rare case where leading builds up to the point where it starts to rub against the rear of the barrel.
In that case, soak it for a few hours with a bore solvent and scrub gently with a brass "toothbrush", which will NOT harm bluing.
Usually, the high temp blast of firing will keep the excess off the cylinder face and you'll have no problems.
If what you want to do is remove all traces of carbon or leading just to make it look "nicer" or unfired, you WILL damage the finish sooner or later.
In any case, the carbon stains are burned into the bluing and are not removable.
This is sort of like trying to make your car tires look like the car hasn't been driven.
If you drive it, they look used.
Shoot your revolver and it's going to have stains on the cylinder face.
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OP
Super Chief
Member
This ain't my pistol but the marks are the similar as on my M27. I've always been able to get them off my M29 which is Nickel, that is lead deposits right? They don't concern me too much, just wondering the best way to get'em off if I was in the mood one day 
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This ain't my pistol but the marks are the similar as on my M27. I've always been able to get them off my M29 which is Nickel, that is lead deposits right? They don't concern me too much, just wondering the best way to get'em off if I was in the mood one day
The lead in THAT PARTICULAR AREA (side) does come off with solvent and a patch relatively easy. I was strictly referring to the Cylinder Face.
Tried everything....
I have a SS revolver and the scorch marks build up pretty bad. I use a Shaklee product that is made for getting burned crud off of kitchen metals. It's called 'Scour Off' but it doesn't 'scour' anything. It's got a little grainy feel to it, but it melts off the scorch marks quickly and with just a little rubbing, so it doesn't hurt anything. I'm sure it would work well on nickel guns but I don't know about blued guns. Just from what I've seen, it won't damage the blued finish.
I have a SS revolver and the scorch marks build up pretty bad. I use a Shaklee product that is made for getting burned crud off of kitchen metals. It's called 'Scour Off' but it doesn't 'scour' anything. It's got a little grainy feel to it, but it melts off the scorch marks quickly and with just a little rubbing, so it doesn't hurt anything. I'm sure it would work well on nickel guns but I don't know about blued guns. Just from what I've seen, it won't damage the blued finish.
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Super Chief
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Like I say I don't know why it won't come off, I've always gotten them off my M29. I don't know why they're being so stubborn on this gun. I've used a few different solvents and a nylon brush and some patches, maybe I'm using the wrong stuff? (Rem Oil, CLP and something from Outers similar to Rem Oil)
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