Best Rebound Spring Tool

Register to hide this ad
This discussion should probably be over in the Gunsmith Forurm, but pressing on... I've used commercially made tools from a couple of distributors, a custom-made one by revolversmith Fred Schmidt, and a #0 Phillips head Craftsman screw driver to deal with removing and replacing the rebound spring, but truth to tell (although I probably have more thumbs and fewer fingers than I should :rolleyes:) I've never noticed any particular need for any specific or special tool to do this task.

Froggie
 
Blackshirt:

Welcome to the Forum. I own and enjoy the Smithmaster tool you refer to. I've tried using small screwdrivers, off-set spring removers, etc., and none worked as good for me as the Smithmaster tool. Jerry Miculek simply uses a Bic pen as a recoil spring remover.

Regards,

Dave
 
Here's a really fancy $4.99 Craftsman 1/8" blade "multitool", Part #41589 that has served for the last 20+ years. Overall length is 6".
How someone can afford to spend $30.00 or more on a special tool to do this is beyond me.....I don't get it. (I'm a cheapskate)

A.K.A. "screwdriver", "sight adj. tool"

It has a tip that fits the S&W screws perfectly, and also fits inside the rear coil of the rebound spring just enough to press it into the reb. slide without failure or damage. Added heat-shrink tubing protects metal parts from the screwdriver shaft......and, last but not least, the handle functions perfectly as a "non-marring" impact tool to vibrate the sideplate off.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0286.jpg
    IMG_0286.jpg
    90.9 KB · Views: 830
Last edited:
When I attended the S&W Law Enforcement Armorer's School in 1988, we built 3 revolvers in a week. Like many students there, I showed up with the tool sold by Brownells. They taught using just a regular screwdriver. Upon seeing many of us with the tool, the instructor asked if we got the waxed paper with the tool. Why ? To keep our candy-asses from sticking to the chair.
 
Jerry Miculek I ain't. I like this tool because it's fast and unlikely to damage the spring. It's not the only way, but'll be my tool of choice for this job...
 
Ball point pen ( non-retractable kind). It is what Jerry Miculek uses in his videos. So I tried it and have used it several times. Works like a charm :)

Uhhh, i bet jerry uses 2# springs from a bic pen though. I use a dremeled out screwdriver but that looks like a nifty tool
 
Last edited:
Same here. Turned a wrestling match into an uneventful step in the disassembly / assembly process. Also as noted, the much reduced chance of damage to the spring or associated parts. The small cost, for a lifetime of use, was worth every cent to me.

Plus One!

There are many ways to get things done. However, the proper tool makes the task easier and uneventful.

JMHO,

Paul
 
I'm sure thus will bring some criticism, but I don't have a lick of trouble using a screwdriver.
 
The Wheeler Engineering screwdriver set contains an offset tool resembling an SMLE firing pin tool that works better than anything else I've ever used. Definitely better than a notched screwdriver.

Larry
 
At this point in my S&W life it is the price of the tool (especially when I add the outrageous shipping price Larry Potter charges) that stops me from immediately ordering the tool. I have already learned usable workarounds and how to make my own homemade version.

If I was taking my first steps in setting up for revolver maintenance it might seem a reasonable purchase . By far my best outlay was for a full set of tools from Weaver.

I ordered mine directly from the source - SmithMaster: SmithMaster? - trigger spring tool for S&W® Revolvers. | Welcome to Gunsmither? Tools | Myself

Shipping and handling was $5.50. Though I really didn't need it (I had been using an old drill chuck), I also bought the ViceSmith at the same time. Both work great for me.

Regards,

Dave
 
The best one there is is one you can make yourself in about 5 minutes from a screw-in hook and a short piece of 1/2" wood dowel. I have shown this several times before. I still use the same one I made in about 1970.

Tool2_zpssjxrutb0.jpg


Tool1_zpsjd4gj4hb.jpg
 
If installing a Wolfe or other aftermarket spring, it really helps to grind the ends flat like the factory does.
 
Gents, how does on get the hand spring up into place after putting the rebound assembly in???

PJH
 
Back
Top