Cleaning a Revolver...

EJO · Feb 24, 2016

How often do you recommend using a Bronze Bore Brush to clean the chambers and barrel...
If I'm shooting about 100-rnds thru at a range-visit.. how often is this recommended?
Also, obviously the only way to clean the barrel (not using a 'snake') is from the muzzel-end IN... what about the cylinders... which direction is recommended?
Thanks

gwpercle · Feb 24, 2016

I clean after every range session with a bore snake , it's easy , quick and doesn't cause any undue wear. Then do a barrel/cylinder inspection , when it needs additional cleaning , that's when the brush, solvent and rod come out.
More guns are damaged by too much cleaning from the muzzle ,the rod damages the crown. Get a plastic or brass muzzle guide to stop this.
The boresnake is not going to damage the crown, and can be fed through the forcing cone and pulled out from the muzzle end.

Cylinders are cleaned from the rear , insert the snake or brush into the larger diameter rear and pull or push towards the front.
When working with a brush , shove it all the way through , trying to reverse a brush inside the bore or chamber might cause it to get stuck.
Think of bore as a one way street, you can't go backwards.
I clean with brush and rod only when the snake doesn't remove it .
Gary

chief38 · Feb 24, 2016

Been using a Bronze Bore Brush after shooting every time I shoot for 50 years! Sometime 3 or 4 passes, sometimes a dozen passes - all depends on how many rounds I have fired and how dirty the gun is. You barrel and Cylinder will NOT get damaged by the Bronze Brush because it is much softer than the steel it is cleaning. What WILL damage your Bore or Cylinder is a poor quality Cleaning Rod or bad methods of using one. I shoot 99% Lead - just for the record.

bigggbbruce · Feb 24, 2016

gwpercle said:
When working with a brush , shove it all the way through , trying to reverse a brush inside the bore or chamber might cause it to get stuck.

It will bend up the soft bristles on the brush rendering it useless.

EJO · Feb 24, 2016

Thanks Guys... appreciate the input.

bountyhunter · Feb 24, 2016

EJO said:
How often do you recommend using a Bronze Bore Brush to clean the chambers and barrel...Thanks

NEVER. I threw away all metal brushes, I use only nylon. I don't shoot lead ammo. Even cleaning the bore, I soak it in Kroil and use a nylon brush. In cases where fouling is baked on, I use a mile cleaner like JB Bore paste or chrome polish with the nylon brush.

FYI: it is not necessary to "100% clean" the bore in fact that puts more wear in the bore than shooting does.

chief38 · Feb 24, 2016

bountyhunter said:
NEVER. I threw away all metal brushes, I use only nylon. I don't shoot lead ammo. Even cleaning the bore, I soak it in Kroil and use a nylon brush. In cases where fouling is baked on, I use a mile cleaner like JB Bore paste or chrome polish with the nylon brush.

FYI: it is not necessary to "100% clean" the bore in fact that puts more wear in the bore than shooting does.

If you do not shoot Lead ammo then a Copper dissolving chemical must be used to remove the copper fowling. The correct brush to use with Copper solvent is Nylon as you are doing. Bronze brushes are at risk of being eaten by the Copper solvent.

Where I am a member our indoor Club rules will not allow the use of jacketed bullets for fear of ricochets. Our outside facility allows the use of jacketed bullets however I do not want to reload every caliber I shoot in both Lead and Copper so I have stuck with the lead. Unfortunately, Nylon Bore Brushes have little affect on removing Lead so Bronze and sometimes a Lewis Lead Remover have to be used. So far in 50 years I have had zero damage to any firearm. That said, those who are using Copper jacketed ammo and Copper Solvents SHOULD use Nylon brushes. For Lead ...... Bronze is the way to go.

bountyhunter · Feb 24, 2016

chief38 said:
If you do not shoot Lead ammo then a Copper dissolving chemical must be used to remove the copper fowling. The correct brush to use with Copper solvent is Nylon as you are doing. Bronze brushes are at risk of being eaten by the Copper solvent.

and the bristles break off and end up in the action of the gun. One of the main reasons I would NEVER use a bronze brush.

chief38 said:
Where I am a member our indoor Club rules will not allow the use of jacketed bullets for fear of ricochets. Our outside facility allows the use of jacketed bullets however I do not want to reload every caliber I shoot in both Lead and Copper so I have stuck with the lead. Unfortunately, Nylon Bore Brushes have little affect on removing Lead so Bronze and sometimes a Lewis Lead Remover have to be used. So far in 50 years I have had zero damage to any firearm. That said, those who are using Copper jacketed ammo and Copper Solvents SHOULD use Nylon brushes. For Lead ...... Bronze is the way to go.

Maybe so, it's been a few years since I shot lead.

ContinentalOp · Feb 24, 2016

I use bronze brushes every time I clean my gun after shooting. I do run wet patches through the bore and chambers first and let them sit for a few minutes before using the brushes.

Also, I use a slightly larger brush for the chambers. For example, for a .38 Special revolver I'll use a .38 caliber brush for the bore and a .40 caliber brush for the chambers.

I'll echo what others have said about protecting the muzzle. I use a plastic bore guide to protect the muzzle rifling. I also wad up a rag and stick it through the cylinder window to help protect the breech face when cleaning the bore.

Snowninja · Feb 24, 2016

ContinentalOp said:
I use bronze brushes every time I clean my gun after shooting. I do run wet patches through the bore and chambers first and let them sit for a few minutes before using the brushes.

+1, I've always figured after 100+ mini controlled explosions, forcing a metal object at intense speeds, a few slow swipes with a soft bronze brush won't hurt anything, hasn't yet anyway. I'm just trying to figure out what too use those dang mops on...

Backlighting · Feb 24, 2016

With an eyedropper I insert a little Hoppe's #9 into the barrel and follow that with 2 passes of a bore snake. That usually does it.

kbm6893 · Feb 24, 2016

I thouroughly clean my guns after every range session. Wet bore and chambers with solvent soaked patches and let sit while I clean the rest of the gun with a solvent soaked toothbrush. Bronze toothbrush for the forcing come. Then hose down whole gun with brake cleaner (stainless guns only). Solvent dipped bronze brush 10-15 passes through barrel. Brush dipped in solvent chucked into drill on low for chambers. Pass dry rags through to mop up, followed by solvent soaked patches to get what little remains. Dry patch through barrel and chambers. Patches come out white. Oil and put away.

Been doing it that way over 20 years and never an issue. A clean gun is a happy gun.

chief38 · Feb 24, 2016

On lesser quality Bronze Brushes the bristles do tend to fall out when they get old, but on better ones (I buy Brownells brushes which are top notch) they stay put for a long time. Even if they do fall out, a follow up with a solvent soaked patch takes them right out.

I also encourage everyone regardless of what brush type they use to flush out the cylinder tunnel that the ER rides in. After I am done with the cylinder cleaning, I hold the Cylinder in the upright position, fill the tunnel up with Rig #2 Oil and work the ER a few times. Then dump the fluid onto a paper towel. 99% of what comes out is powder residue and dirt - it's extremely rare for a brush bristle (either Nylon or Bronze) to get in there - in fact I can not ever remember one doing so in the 50 years I've been at this.

EJO · Feb 24, 2016

Alot of good info... really appreciate all the input.
Thanks

Rpg · Feb 24, 2016

I'm pretty casual about cleaning my guns.

I clean them when they get really dirty, usually, although sometimes I forget and shoot them anyhow.

I developed my slovenly habits about 50 years ago: I was on the shooting team in ROTC in high school. I cleaned my 52C after practice one day. My Sargent discovered what I'd done and I did push ups for months to remind me never to mess with my gun again.

I don't know if the Sargant was right, but I've never had a problem with a firearms following his advice.

bigwheelzip · Feb 24, 2016

Rpg said:
I developed my slovenly habits about 50 years ago: I was on the shooting team in ROTC in high school. I cleaned my 52C after practice one day. My Sargent discovered what I'd done and I did push ups for months to remind me never to mess with my gun again.

The person who got me started shooting a few of years ago was a Colonel in the Air Force, and believed in never cleaning his weapons until they malfunction from neglect.

I met his father at the sons retirement ceremony, and he is a retired Marine Corp officer, who believed that a weapon is always kept clean.

I follow the fathers advice and always clean my firearms after use.

BruceM · Feb 24, 2016

+1 on using high quality bronze brushes. The quality of the bristles isn't the only issue. Buy the type which have the round ends of the twisted wire core and not the ones which are cut off and have sharp ends. The round end prevent possible damage from any possible oops when moving the brush back and forth.

Bruce

roscoepc · Feb 24, 2016

A high quality steel pistol/rifle/shotgun barrel being damaged by a brass/bronze cleaning brush..... Really...... Can anyone provide documented proof of that ever happening??? Not trying to start anything here but I can't picture a cleaning brush doing ANY damage to a decent weapon!

And for the record I use a brass brush with Rem oil along with a clean patch to swab out the barrel/cylinder after cleaning, no solvents at all... On all my guns!

Activating Flame Suit........

chief38 · Feb 25, 2016

Oh just wanted to mention that for higher quality Firearms, Brownells has their Special Line of Bronze Brushes that use rounded end Brass twisting wire instead of Steel. This gives a little extra protection just in case. I find that the Brownells brand of Bronze bore brushes to be FAR SUPERIOR to any of the major big box store brands like Hoppes, Outers, etc. More bristles, tighter wound, better quality winding, and just over all superior. If you buy them in the dozen package they come to a little over a buck each. Not bad!

rays44 · Mar 2, 2016

I shoot lead exclusively these days. Mostly an assortment of .45 and .44 revolvers. I clean them after every session. Wet patch first. Oversize bronze brush next, End with wet patches followed with dry. Last pass has light coat of oil. For stubborn lead in the throat, I use bronze scowering pad strips cut from the pad, (it's messy), wrap around a wet patch and ride the throat until clean. I'm a bit of a nut for clean barrels. For a quickie, a bore snake works in a pinch.
I used to have an electronic bore cleaner years ago that worked without a single scrub. I gotta find that thing.

Cleaning a Revolver...

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

SWCA Member

Member

Member

Member

Absent Comrade

Member

Member

Member

Member

Similar threads