Jammed up Smith Revolver.....
- Thread starter dan_lo
- Start date
Good question. There's a photo of the revolver here;
https://smith-wessonforum.com/142209834-post14.html
Do you feel like this video is more 'happy path' than is realistic?
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhUHVcVb_V0[/ame]
Point being, it always looks easy when the youtube guy does it
Ooooo. I forgot to mention this. The thumb toggle to open the cylinder is also seized up with no play. i *assumed* this is by design given what phase the revolver is in of it's action.
AND has the correct size screwdrivers...it always looks easy when the youtube guy does it
From the pic it looks like a 686.As to Hoppe's you're gonna need a LOT to soak the action. Just de-gumming up the innards (if that's the problem) can be done with mineral spirits/paint thinner.
re the cylinder release, I only have 5 Smiths but I checked 'em all and even with the hammer cocked, they all move forward a little, maybe 1/16". Basically mechanical clearance to operate freely.
As to the internal lock, it's a small hole on the LH side, below the cylinder release. Unlikely to be the problem, IMHO. I'm going with the "sock drawer/never cleaned" scenario. Maybe over -lubricated at one point and the oil has congealed.
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Or, since when did Chicago become part of Canada?
AudieMurphy
Member
you'll need a torx bit to remove the grips...removing the side plate would be a cake walk...loosing or removing the strain screw will not solve the problem. as a last resort after you've detrmined its unloaded ...pull back on the hammer as hard as you can to possibly disengage the trigger from the hammer....maybe even pushing the trigger forward while pulling back on the hammer....its worked for me before...but as a last resort it will need the side plate removed/or gunsmith
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AND has the correct size screwdrivers
As to Hoppe's you're gonna need a LOT to soak the action. Just de-gumming up the innards (if that's the problem) can be done with mineral spirits/paint thinner.
re the cylinder release, I only have 5 Smiths but I checked 'em all and even with the hammer cocked, they all move forward a little, maybe 1/16". Basically mechanical clearance to operate freely.
As to the internal lock, it's a small hole on the LH side, below the cylinder release. Unlikely to be the problem, IMHO. I'm going with the "sock drawer/never cleaned" scenario. Maybe over -lubricated at one point and the oil has congealed.
i will recheck it to see if there's more play in the release than i realize.
As for tooling, I'll consult the 686 manual to figure out what the right answer is but I have this kit from wheeler which I've had some luck with for various tasks.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRTF47FM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1[/ame]
Protocall_Design
Member
The only thing that might be different from the Brownell's video is if the sideplate is tightly fitted, you may have to rap on the grip frame a little harder or a few more times.
Not IMO.
The sideplate is going to be removed & a look inside is going to be a necessity.
Using a hollowground screwdriver (or tip), remove the screws on the sideplate, tap the plate or frame with the screwdriver plastic handle & the plate will pop right off. Then you can look at the innards to see why it's locked up.
If you can (or do) change your own oil, you can pop off your sideplate, IMO.
Richard Simmons
Member
To the OP. Are those stocks preventing the hammer from coming all the way back? Kinda looks like they are touching in the photo. Looks like they are S&W marked but someone might have swapped them and never checked after they did.
You say you are familiar with disassembling/reassembling auto pistols (I think I read that right). If so, you should have zero problem getting that sideplate off. Confirm the gun is unloaded with the wire/dowel/screwdriver, etc.. that you have already discussed.
Remove the grips. You will see three screws on the right side of the weapon, and one screw on the front side of the grip frame (near the bottom). Using a properly fitted screwdriver, remove the three screws on the side. On most revolvers, the two rear screws are identical, but the front screw is different, so keep them separated.
Place the weapon over a folded towel, or something soft to prevent damage to the sideplate when it pops off. Turn the weapon with the left side facing up, and hold it by the barrel/fwd frame with your left hand. With a large screwdriver handle, broomstick, soft-faced hammer, etc., smack the left side of the grip frame. Start with easy blows and the sideplate should pop off after a few taps. If not, hit it harder. If it's stuck on with decades of dried oil/rust, it might take some serious smacks. But, eventually it should pop right off onto the towel. You will also notice another part comes off with it. No worries, that is your hammer block. It's easy to put back on when you reassemble.
With the sideplate off, see if you can see anything obviously wrong (with no revolver experience, you probably won't...but maybe). Now, back off the fourth screw (the one on the front grip frame) two turns. That is the strain screw and backing it off removes most tension on the mainspring. With most of the tension removed, now see if you can manipulate anything.
If it is dirty/gummy/rusty in the internals then spray some automotive brake cleaner all in the workings. If that frees things up, you should be able to see the contacts points and you want to place a drop or two of oil in there. Tighten the strain screw all the way and check for proper function. You DO NOT want to operate it very much with the sideplate removed AND the strain screw tightened. You simply want to see if it works, now. If it does, place the hole in the hammer block over the pin on the recoil slide and push the other end up under the hammer as far as it will go. Gently place the lip on the sideplate under the frame at the top and push it down with finger pressure until it is flush. If it won't go all the way on, it's because the hammer block is not on just right (look at the groove in the sideplate that it rides in). Move it a bit and you will get everything lined up and the sideplate flush. Replace the three sideplate screws (making sure you get them back in their original locations). Check that everything works and reinstall the grips.
If this doesn't work, you might want to call someone. However, if you like to tinker, you can completely strip one and put it back together without too much trouble. It's not rocket science. There are many Youtube videos on it. You don't need to worry about the model number. The basics are the same on all of them, with just minor variations.
Remove the grips. You will see three screws on the right side of the weapon, and one screw on the front side of the grip frame (near the bottom). Using a properly fitted screwdriver, remove the three screws on the side. On most revolvers, the two rear screws are identical, but the front screw is different, so keep them separated.
Place the weapon over a folded towel, or something soft to prevent damage to the sideplate when it pops off. Turn the weapon with the left side facing up, and hold it by the barrel/fwd frame with your left hand. With a large screwdriver handle, broomstick, soft-faced hammer, etc., smack the left side of the grip frame. Start with easy blows and the sideplate should pop off after a few taps. If not, hit it harder. If it's stuck on with decades of dried oil/rust, it might take some serious smacks. But, eventually it should pop right off onto the towel. You will also notice another part comes off with it. No worries, that is your hammer block. It's easy to put back on when you reassemble.
With the sideplate off, see if you can see anything obviously wrong (with no revolver experience, you probably won't...but maybe). Now, back off the fourth screw (the one on the front grip frame) two turns. That is the strain screw and backing it off removes most tension on the mainspring. With most of the tension removed, now see if you can manipulate anything.
If it is dirty/gummy/rusty in the internals then spray some automotive brake cleaner all in the workings. If that frees things up, you should be able to see the contacts points and you want to place a drop or two of oil in there. Tighten the strain screw all the way and check for proper function. You DO NOT want to operate it very much with the sideplate removed AND the strain screw tightened. You simply want to see if it works, now. If it does, place the hole in the hammer block over the pin on the recoil slide and push the other end up under the hammer as far as it will go. Gently place the lip on the sideplate under the frame at the top and push it down with finger pressure until it is flush. If it won't go all the way on, it's because the hammer block is not on just right (look at the groove in the sideplate that it rides in). Move it a bit and you will get everything lined up and the sideplate flush. Replace the three sideplate screws (making sure you get them back in their original locations). Check that everything works and reinstall the grips.
If this doesn't work, you might want to call someone. However, if you like to tinker, you can completely strip one and put it back together without too much trouble. It's not rocket science. There are many Youtube videos on it. You don't need to worry about the model number. The basics are the same on all of them, with just minor variations.
Check to see if that hammer spur is touching the grips.
Maybe by trying to slide a thin piece of cardboard between the hammer and top of the grip. or just remove the grips and see if that does free it up. If so you may have to remove a bit of material on the grip where the hammer makes contact.
That would keep the gun from functioning for sure. But, if I understand the issue, the gun is now completely locked up. He can't lower the hammer, can't open the cylinder.
You're right. That does look like a snug fit. I'll examine more closely tomorrow.
FWIW, I've asked some questions of the owner - she says it was purchased new in 2020 and does not believe there were any modifications made at the time of purchase.
SWFan27
Member
Then it is still under warranty through Smith & Wesson. They will send a shipping label and send it back to you after they repair it. Usually about a 4-6 week turnaround time.
Well, and isn't there something under pressure when it's cocked that could be damaged by taking off the side plate?
Plus the gun is only 5 years old. Hard to imagine the innards are THAT gunked up.
Yeah I'm not familiar with the sensitivities of revolvers. My working theory that maybe the storage conditions were less than ideal and maybe it was exposed to some moisture?
One thing is for certain: it's not like she was shooting it enough to cause that kind of mess. Even if you're talking nasty reman, I'd be pretty shocked if she has enough rounds through it to be that dirty.
kbm6893
Member
Depends. Some people squirt oil into the action thinking they’re doing a good thing. But 5 years old? More likely a mechanical issue. But I’m not sure you can send back a revolver that can’t be opened to verify it’s unloaded. But loosening the strain screw might allow you to relieve the tension on the hammer.
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The hammer stud, and it is not something you want to bend or break.
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