Hammer block issue on Model 69 .44 Combat Magnum

jtlarsen · Nov 13, 2016

I removed the trigger to dehorn and round the face to make it more comfortable since I shoot double action. No other mods were done..

However, when I put everything together, the hammer block seems to cause an issue: Revolver has changed personality. Let me add - all testing is done without any ammo.

1. Trigger pull is smooth until trigger point - then extra force must be used to make it fire.
2. Does not work right in single action mode. Will not cock easily; must use extra force to cock it, and when pulling trigger, it is not the same light touch needed to fire.
3. When I remove the hammer block, everything is as it should be - very smooth trigger pull, single action works like it should, also when cover is mounted and screws tightened.
4. When I add the hammer block, everything works fine until I start tightening up the cover screws.

Any ideas what is the cause?

Thanks - JT

Protocall_Design · Nov 13, 2016

Check the sideplate for any burrs where the hammer block runs. Put the hammer block in the sideplate and run up and down to check for any tight spots. Sometimes the HB can catch on the edge of the frame under the firing pin. I radius both sides (front and back) of the HB, one side for the frame, one side for the hammer (when rebounding). When installing the sideplate over the HB, make sure the HB is all the way up on the rebound slide pin and stays there till the sideplate is down.

Also, I think the M69 may have a thumblatch block like the N frame 44's. If so, that is operated by the extended hand pivot pin. Make sure the pin goes in the slot of the block and not under the bottom of it. I have not seen a 69 yet, so I am guessing a little bit here.

jtlarsen · Nov 13, 2016

OK, I radiused both sides. Hammer block does not seem to catch, no issue. Problem still there. The problem starts as soon as I start tightening the screw that is on the back frame... Revolver had no issues until I took out the trigger and put everything back again.

I also de-burred the hammer block (had sharp edges), it slides easily in the side plate.

This is what the internals look like when I remove the side plate:

jtlarsen-albums-s-and-w-mod-69-44-combat-magnum-picture15306-s-w-mod-69-internals-w-hammer-block-what-you-see-when-cover-removed.jpg

Tom S. · Nov 13, 2016

If it's doing it when you tighten the side plate screw(s) then you some debris under one or more parts. Take it apart, clean thoroughly, lightly oil and replace everything. Should work as before.

Big Cholla · Nov 13, 2016

Not real familiar with a M 69, But, I think that there might be a chance that this handgun was equipped with the wrong sideplate. Check that aspect out. Also, I have found many hammer blocks that were slightly oversized. I would take a file and flatten all four sides of the stem of the hammer block and give it a re-try. ..................

BuckeyeS&W · Nov 13, 2016

Tom S. said:
If it's doing it when you tighten the side plate screw(s) then you some debris under one or more parts. Take it apart, clean thoroughly, lightly oil and replace everything. Should work as before.

Looks like it needs a good cleaning and relube to me also.

jtlarsen · Nov 13, 2016

Finally found out what was wrong: I had installed the hand torsion spring wrong; the short torsion spring hand was underneath the trigger lever instead of the pocket hole, causing the trigger lever to push the rebound slide too far (overtravel). When hammer block was installed and side plate tightened, the rebound slide would be stopped by the hammer block (preventing over travel).

With help from Wayne M's response to a post on torsion spring installation problem, I figured out what happened:

Wayne M said:
The short end of the spring goes into a small hole in the hollow rear of the trigger, hard to see it without a light. I usually clamp the trigger at an angle in a padded vise so I can look into the rear then use a bright light to find my way and insert the short end of the spring by holding the long end with a pair of needle nose pliers. Neat set up once you do it for the first time. To inset the hand once the spring is in place you can push the long(free arm) end of the spring toward the top of the trigger, slip the hand into place then gently release the spring arm. You're good to go!

Now it works beautifully again!

Thanks to all who responded, you inspired me to rule out some issues and then look at other solutions...

By the way, the gun might look dirty, but it is all cleaned and lubricated. It looks gunky as the hammer part is matte black. Did however take everything apart one more time, clean and lubricate to make sure no high spots due to debris could cause issues.

Again - thank you all for the inspiration and answers!!!

BLUEDOT37 · Nov 14, 2016

I had a similar problem on my 325TR after I polished up the rebound slide, & the hammer block arm & reassembled it. It was fine before but acted like you outlined afterwards.

After messing with it for over half an hour & not getting anywhere more I decided to compare the HB dimension to the one in my 625PC. No real difference or obviously wrong.

After more fitting failed, I swapped the HB between the 325TR & the 625PC & they both worked fine !?! Swapped them back & 325TR was unhappy again. Reversed them one last time & quit worrying about it. They're happy & so am I. Go figure.

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Hammer block issue on Model 69 .44 Combat Magnum

jtlarsen

Protocall_Design

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jtlarsen

Tom S.

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Big Cholla

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BuckeyeS&W

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jtlarsen

BLUEDOT37

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