Me too as soon as I can get some. For wiping down exterior metal been using that Remington Green cloth which is coated with Rem Oil and rust inhibitors so it claims. Got it at a Bass Pro.

Once again I will state the most obvious point I can make on this subject. Despite all the advertising and claims by those marketing specialized products, there is no source with the many years of research and development in firearms cleaning, maintenance, and lubrication products that the US military has.

Since the late 1960's I have been using US military surplus bore cleaning solvents and lubricants on all of my firearms with complete satisfaction. Also, instead of paying inflated prices for tiny portions of the "newest and bestest" I can pay a dollar or two for pint or quart-sized cans of GI surplus products of the highest quality.

GI bore cleaning solvent is great for removing powder residue and bore fouling. LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) is suitable for just about any firearm from rimfire rifles to 20mm anti-tank weapons. And you can probably find either (or both) at just about any gun show for chump-change prices, or go on-line and order it in by the carton or truck load.

Of course, if you prefer to use only the newest and most heavily advertised products you can pay ten or twenty times as much, and you will probably be rewarded with things like canola oil infused with scents and colorants.

Your choice. Think about it: the US military has been dealing with these issues for well over a hundred years, requiring large quantities of cleaning and lubricating products for use in small arms deployed in every possible climate condition.

As a caveat, the cleaning agents of the past, just might be harmful to the user. I prefer to have a basement full of little bottles of different lubes and cleaners .

I have a Walther PPK and a Kel Tec P3AT. The blow back of the PPK gives way more felt recoil than the falling block design of the P3AT. I’d venture to say the P3AT is milder than a K frame Airweight with 130 gr .38 ammo.

The P3AT is my EDC because it light, thin easy to carry and easy to shoot.

I don't have a favorite as I think the differences between good quality lubes, whether you're using the latest gun lubes or motor oil, is pretty small. I've used Break Free CLP pretty much since I got into guns over 20 years ago and never had an issue with it.

My Beretta 92FS had been in storage for nearly 20 years in a foam-lined case (which many people say to never do) and had been wiped down with Break Free CLP before being put away. I got it out of storage about a year-and-a-half ago, cleaned it with Gun Scrubber and Break Free CLP, lubed it with my current lube choice, Gun Butter oil, and it was good as new.

I've also used Tetra Gun products, grease and oil, and they worked fine.

I want to try some Lubriplate after my Gun Butter runs out, but I still probably have at least 2-3 years before that happens.

So, to sum up, no need to overthink it. Revolvers don't require a lot of lube. Pick any one of a number of good quality lubes, most of which have already been mentioned, and keep the gun clean and lubed properly.

I will add that, whatever lube you get, a needle applicator is a really handy tool, especially for revolvers.

I like Lucas gun oil. I have found it stays better than breakfree.

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SW99 9mm Sigma VE 40
M&P 15

Rotella T6. Oops, sorry that"s my motorcycle forum oil thread answer, but I have used it in a pinch at the range when I forgot my kit. I've been using Breakfree CLP for about 30 years because I bought a gallon jug of it way back then and it still has a little in it. I have to pour some in a container and but it in my vibratory tumbler before refilling my squirt bottle as it settles and clumps. I have noticed that the new Breakfree doesn't have that aroma I learned to love like the old stuff has.

Another vote for Ballistol.

I believe there is more to the story than he is telling you or that he actually knows......

After 54 years of using, Hopped Oil (on many things - not just firearms) I have not seen it turn into Lacquer, - NEVER! Not saying he couldn't have gotten a bad can, but more than likely there's MORE to the story. Just saying..........

Stu,
I own and use Kroil often (on rusted bolts and parts) and I do like the way it works. My problem with it is the smell it exudes. Question: Does the Microil have the same smell as Kroil and is the Microil just a smaller can of the Kroil or a different product?

I use the Aero-Kroil which to the best of my knowledge is just Kroil in a spray can with propellant.

Thanks in advance!

Chief38

Rem Oil and Breakfree CLP for me.

Olive oil? Just kidding! I use 3 in 1. Works for me.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

Hoppes will perform exactly the same as plain mineral oil, since that's all it is.

3 in 1 to lube and WD40 on a rag to clean.....Bet my old guns are just as purty as yours.

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S&W Accumulator

For me a thin coat of Rem oil works best on my stainless 5906 and M65 , CLP on polymer Shield and SD9 .

Sorry for the delay Chief.
Microil is odorless and colorless. It is a highly refined oil listed for use on guns and clocks. Nothing at all like Kroil or Silikroil. Yeah, Kroil stinks but it works. You are correct about Aero-Kroil, nothing but Kroil under pressure.

Stu

Hoppes's Elite which is mineral oil with moly and PTFE.

Nothing special, mostly bought it because I wanted a small applicator bottle.

Thanks Stu - I'll keep my eye out for a can and give it a whirl. UPDATE - I see it's sold by Midway so next order I place I'll get some.

I like using Eezox. I have had it last for months and a little goes a long way

Hoppe's #9, ( and sometimes Ballistol ) for cleaning.
Break-Free for lubrication.

For 40 years.

Never saw any reason to change.

These oil threads are "self lubricating' - LOL!!

LOL Agree chief. Actually enjoy reading about the zillion brands and types. When I run out of Hoppes, and Breakfree I may try something else for the fun of it. Maybe I should start another Boresnake thread. That should start some controversy.

Corrosion x