I have a set of Ahrends Retro Combat grips that are finished in pure tung oil. Looking at some beautiful grips on another thread that were finished in Tru-Oil made me start thinking about re-finishing mine. I'm not looking for a high gloss but I would like my wood to have a little more sheen than it does currently has.

Does anyone have experience re-finishing stocks that had a pure tung oil finish? Any advice would be appreciated!

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"In God We Trust"

Rags soaked in pure Tung oil can spontaneously combust. Dispose of properly.

I refinished a set of Ahrend's a while back. I gave them 10 coats of 100% tung oil (Hope's) and 2 coats of REN WAX. They came out with a semi-gloss finish, just what I wanted.

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I used Tung oil on a few M1 Garand stocks as was common practice in military use. It looks good and holds up very well over time.
Jim

Nice grips and nice gun too! Maybe I just need to give mine a couple of coats of wax and a good buffing instead of considering another type of finish.

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"In God We Trust"

These are Ahrends oil finished stocks that were dull as well. I used some carnuba wax on my buffing wheel. Turned out nice.

To address the OP, I would thoroughly clean the stocks and do them again with tung oil. Be aware that 'tung oil finish' at the big box store may not be 'pure tung oil'. Find a local woodworker and buy an ounce of pure tung oil, or go to a local woodworker supply house and pick up a bottle. Thin coats (very thin), and the patience to let it dry between coats will be your friend. A very light abrasive rubbing (Scotch Brite Pad or something similar) between coats will give you a very nice finished product. Rub the oil in until you feel the heat in your fingers. You should get to a point near the end where about one drop of oil per stock is all you need to apply a coat. Rushing the job or using too much oil will botch it up for you. Patience will be a very important ingredient. After the last abrasive rub, a coat of Johnson's Paste wax or Ren Wax, and you should be very pleased.

Thanks for all the replies!

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"In God We Trust"

Also you can add to the sheen by applying a coat or two of MinWax Tung Oil Finish. It is not pure Tung oil but is based on Tung oil with additional dryers and hardeners ....True Oil is Linseed oil based with dryers and hardeners. These dryers and hardeners give it a little more gloss and harder final finish.
I would would use the Min Wax Tung Oil Finish to get the look you want.
I discovered this product after refinishing an antique oak dining room table and chairs , the finish looked awesome after only two application and has held up for 12 years now...still looks good.
This experience made me a believer and all stocks I do since has been with the Min Wax TOF . Try it.
I know it's not "pure" Tung oil but True Oil isn't pure linseed oil either ....it's better in my book . The grips on the model 58 in my avatar.....MinWax Tung Oil Finish.
Gary

Not to argue, but I have in the past checked the ingredients of Minwax Tung Oil Finish and found it to basically be a varnish finish with little, if any, actual tung oil. I discarded mine years ago for that reason, so I do not have a can to check ingredients. Perhaps Minwax is adding tung oil now, I do not know. In any event, if you wish a tung oil finish, check to assure your product contains tung oil.

I've been using Hopes Brand 100% Tung Oil since 1978 with excellent results all the time! I've used it on furniture, stocks, grips, moulding, picture frames - you name it!

For Guns I usually apply 6 - 8 coats (one per day) and if you leave the final coat alone, you will have a shine - but if you want more of a satin finish just lightly hit it with some 0000 steel wool for a few seconds.

REALLY lasts and if you ever scuff, ding or damage an area, just repair, scuff up and apply several more coats - works like a charm! The GREAT thing is if you use the 100% stuff, it NEVER goes bad, never expires and never has to be thrown out due to age! There are no solvents in it to evaporate or separate.
It is also non-toxic so you can apply and rub in with your bare hands.

Many don't know this, but originally the US Military used Linseed Oil on their Rifles but switched to 100% Tung Oil when the Linseed Oil created problems due to its failure to dry properly. Tung Oil dries 100% and quickly. A Truly GREAT product! make SURE you get 100% Tung Oil and NOT a product that just contains it!

To resurrect it a bit.

Can I use any of the chemicals in my pic to remove that polyurethane finish of the Ahrends grips?

TIA

I don't use those and never tried them. Acetone and a tooth brush works well and quickly and is generally what is recommended on grips. Wear safety glasses; when scrubbing you don't want any in your eyes!!! Get a can at your local Home Depot or Lowes - cheap.

Paint Thinner (Mineral Spirits) won't do much to cured polyurethane.
The Deck Refinisher may be the silicate based stuff used in a power washer or meant to be heavily scrubbed on the surface to prepare outdoor decks and furniture for refinishing. Some have a bit of oxalic acid in them too to lighten up the wood and remove stains.
Save it for the Deck.

Lacquer Thinner may cut thru some polyurethane finishes but not others.
Of the three, this one would have the best bet to work but no guarantees .

I'd use acetone in a jar and let them soak in it.
CAreful using a common toothbrush with it as the acetone usually melts the plastic bristles and even the brush handle itself into a stick of goo. That mess can quickly end up imbedded in the wood you're trying to clean up.
The MilSpec M16 cleaning brushes that look just like a toothbrush are chem resistant and work OK with it.
The cheap wood handled w/ very fine brass wire brushes work well, or just a stiff, short bristle small paint brush.

Or use a regular commercial finish stripper and follow their directions to remove the poly finish.

May want to consider Formby's wood finishing products. Lowes carries. I have used their products on furniture. They have both tung oil and a refinished that takes off old shellac, etc. With out damaging wood. A bit expensive but worth it. Have refinished antique tables with it and they turn out great.

This is the route I would go. I would also pick up a paint can while you are out as you want something with a lid so the acetone doesn't evaporate.

Thanks guys, it’s what I have currently sitting in my garage . I’ll stop by the store.

Another question about putting on tung oil, does it need to be deluded with min spirit when applying?

Have also been using the Hopes 100% tung oil on a variety of projects including handgun stocks, rifle stocks, and furniture. You can order it on Amazon, about $27/ quart, but that will go a long way.

I WOULD GO THE WAX AND BUFFING ROUTE, BEFORE RESORTING TO A REFINISH.......

IF YOU DON'T LIKE THE RESULTS, SOAK THE GRIPS IN ACETONE TO REMOVE ALL TRACES OF TUNG OIL AND WAX. ONCE THEY DRY, YOU CAN REFINISH THE BARE WOOD, AS YOU SEE FIT......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I was reading an article about applying wax to a vehicle, perhaps here, that in order to get back to a clean surface you have to remove any old wax. I think the same might apply here with gun stocks. But I am no professional wood finisher so that might be all wrong info for wood.

I found Fornsby tung oil provides a nice finish with a bit of gloss to it. I don't think it is 100% tung oil though. It provided a better gloss finish than BLO did.

Acetone is a great cleaner, but also use good ventilation. This may be what was in the old type "Airplane glue" everyone sniffed in the old days. I built a lot of model cars back in the day and the first time I used acetone I recalled about 70 car kits from the smell. Good flashbacks though! I remember this AMT '32 Vicky, but I digress. Talk about a memory stimulant. But it left my grips absolutely clean and free from any contaminants under the new finish.

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Endeavor to persevere. <><

I have put Tru-Oil directly over a Tung Oil finish. I just lightly prepped them by wiping down with 0000 steel wool, then put 7 coats of tru-Oil on wiping down with the steel wool after a 24 hour dry time between coats. After the last coat let dry 7 days, then I previously would have rubbed down with Rottenstone solution, but I have now started using Mothers Mag Polish to do the same thing, it cuts the high shine and imparts a deep lower gloss. Here's what they look like.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Use Citrus strip to remove poly finish.And you dont need to make a day of it either.

Yes, there's no reason to remove the previous coats of tung oil; indeed that's one of the draws of tung oil (TO) and TO Varnishes (I prefer Waterlox brand TO Varnish)--you can repair easily by just adding a few new coats.

I've stripped a couple of used Ahrends grips with CitrusStrip, followed by wipe down with odorless mineral spirits.

Remember you can get poly in a gloss, semi, satin, or flat finish.

Many finishes advertised as "Tung Oil" contain none at all. Pure Tung oil can be found at some woodworking stores like "Woodcraft". It does not contain any drying agent so it takes a l-o-o-o-ng time to set up. Setting the wood in direct sunshine helps speed things along. Have patience. Tung oil can be thinned with mineral spirits.

Yes indeed! referring to the above. this ALSO includes Linseed Oil. let them air dry outside or do as I do, apply the oil with finger tips. Light applications, several, -- are better than one heavy coat. Just a light coat once every 24 hours or so for several days, and your results will please you. DO NOT use steel wool either-- JMHO

Can anyone confirm if tung oil same as china wood oil?
i see seller on ebay has 4oz bottles, i'd rather buy small container then have 16 oz sitting in the garage forever.

I ended up buying two sets (because I loved the first set a lot) of N frame Combats in Walnut w/Tung Oil from John. These arrived just days before they shut down to move to Oregun.
All I know is that Tung Oil requires a good bit of drying time but I love the results and it is worth waiting for. Good luck with your project.

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I have a bottle of 100% tung oil that also has written (China Wood Oil) so am fairly confident they are synonymous

Well, I started the stripping process with citristrip. Gonna order oil tonight, is 8oz enough?

For several years after I retired I built a bunch of clocks and furniture with most of it being finished with Formb'ys Tung Oil. You could get plenty of shine unless you wanted it like the top of my bald head. Their furniture cleaner is very good also.

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Mighty 90's,Trying 4 a 100!

The Tru-Oil I use, I get the 2 OZ bottle and it will do probably 50 or more handgun grips, multiple coats. Remember, you only use a couple drops at a time and rub it in.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I BELIEVE THAT KURAC USES OVER A DOZEN COATS OF TRU-OIL, TO ACHIEVE THE TOP GRADE FINISHES ON HIS CULINA GRIPS......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I purchased this can of 100% pure Hopes Tung Oil back in the 1970's and it still is about 1/3 full. Because it's 100% pure there is nothing in it to go bad, separate or expire. It lasts forever and works great!

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Ordered 16oz bottle of Hope’s , hopefully will apply first coat on Saturday