Favorite Rebound Spring Weight

Nick B

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What’s everyone’s preferred weight while still keeping 100% ignition ?
 
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That depends on each individual gun......they all have slight differences internally, which makes predicting reliability impossible. If you want 100% reliablity for carry or duty use, I would stay with the OEM springs.

If, however, you are altering a range gun, I would suggest trying a 13-14# rebound spring to start. Remember that a lighter rebound slide spring will not only effect the trigger return efficacy, but will result in a lighter single action pull rate. Use a reliable trigger guage, and verify your results for safety's sake.....the factory recommended SA pull weight is 3lbs. or above.
 
I prefer 12. FWIW the trigger rebound spring has 0% effect on the ignition of primers. The trigger rebound spring determines the force at which the trigger resets. Too light a spring and the trigger might fail to reset if the gun is really dirty or impaired in some way. Some people prefer a heavier spring for a quicker reset which allows for lightening quick DA shooting like Jerry Miculek.
 
Factory works for me. I've gone only a couple pounds lighter, which resulted in short stroking the trigger on occassion.
 
Rebound springs

I think maybe there may be a little confusion about what we are talking about here.

OP is talking about the spring in a REVOLVER inside the rebound slide that returns the trigger after it is compressed for firing. This spring has NO effect on whether the revolver fires or not, that is a function of the mainspring and the screw that is used to tension it.

What it does do is make the overall trigger pull weight lighter or heavier but if too light of a spring is stuck inside the rebound slide the trigger may reset so slowly that it is hard to fire quick followup shots after the first.
 
I think maybe there may be a little confusion about what we are talking about here.

OP is talking about the spring in a REVOLVER inside the rebound slide that returns the trigger after it is compressed for firing. This spring has NO effect on whether the revolver fires or not, that is a function of the mainspring and the screw that is used to tension it.
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What it does do is make the overall trigger pull weight lighter or heavier but if too light of a spring is stuck inside the rebound slide the trigger may reset so slowly that it is hard to fire quick followup shots after the first.
Yes that’s what I’m talking about. The spring inside the rebound slide .
Sorry if my poor description caused some confusion.
 
Stay with the original springs if you want reliability.

Those weights were chosen by S&W engineers for a reason.

So many guys want to re-engineer guns because they think they have a better idea... Don’t change the gun to react with your ability, improve your ability to work with the gun’s design.
 
Wolf 11 or 12 lb. rebound springs. Have used them for years. Work fine for me in the S&W revolvers that I have smoothed up the internal parts and surfaces. Gives me the trigger pull I like.
 
If I could, I'd get some slightly extra-power rebound springs as I like a strong reset when doing quick DA shooting. I've looked, but could never find any. So I stick with stock.
 
So many guys want to re-engineer guns because they think they have a better idea... Don’t change the gun to react with your ability, improve your ability to work with the gun’s design.

The guns were designed to work under all conditions, for all people (even those with minimal training), and to continue working for decades with minimal to no maintenance. If I want to and easily can modify the gun to fit my needs better it would be silly not to. I could spend $200 more on a Performance Center model and hope it has a better trigger, or spend $10 on a reduced power spring (which is going to have no detrimental effect for me) and get the same result.

The stock spring can be reinstalled in 5 minutes if desired.
 
Keep in mind that the rebound spring weight has to be balanced with the mainspring.
Generally, the two should be paired together.
If the rebound spring is too light and trigger return is sluggish, a lighter mainspring will compensate. Or, you can back off the strain screw. Of course, in either case light primer strikes may result.
Some folks get best performance by using a matched pair, like from Wilson Combat.
But, best reliability is probably had with factory springs.

Jim
 
I understand well the purpose of a rebound spring . It's just that in my experience, and my preferences in trigger pulls, it's rarely the limiting factor .

My ultimate goal is smoothness and consistency more than small differences in weight per se . Perfectly mated surfaces will be somewhat lighter even with full power springs , simply from reduced internal friction . A reduced rebound spring with uneven mating surfaces ( either the rebound block per se, or cumulative of the lockwork overall ) can lead to sluggish and inconsistent trigger return , and That bugs me more than a few oz of weight
 
One of my 1911s in 45 Auto uses a 16# spring, the other a 18# spring. My 9mm 1911 uses a 14# spring.
 
The thing you failed to mention which will greatly affect the answer is are we talking range/target gun or carry gun. Modifying a carry gun is taking a big risk if you ever use the gun for self defense. For a range/target gun as long as the gun is safe i.e. no push off etc. then whatever works for your shooting style is fine.
 
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