SS revolvers: Bringing back that original factory look...

TTSH

TTSH

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I need a refresher lesson on bringing back that late-70's/early-80's factory fresh "look" to S&W stainless steel revolvers. I'm talking the stainless steel finish, not the wood. There are a couple early stainless revolvers that I am considering as we speak (Model 63 &/or Model 65), but both have finishes that are showing their age... no real damage, just superficial wear... lots of shiny spots and poor attempts at "cleaning" that I would like to dull down or eliminate if possible, but without ending up with an obvious brushed steel-looking finish like on the new Rugers.

Anyone want to take a crack at helping me out with this? :)
 
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The original finish can be closely duplicated by a low pressure fine glass bead media. An even smoother slightly dull finish can be had using fine garnet media. I have not done this but have seen it done by a local gunsmith a number of years ago.
 
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Rule3 said:
Matte finish or smooth shiny finish?
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Not really a matte finish... but not a smooth shiny finish either. :)

Here are some pix of what I'd like to achieve. I know lighting affects the looks of stainless steel a lot... but the first 3 pix tend to show a clean, almost-swirl-free, aluminum-like finish... not matte, but not shiny either. The last pic is in brighter lighting, but still not what anyone would call mirror shiny finish. Ignoring the terrible condition of the stocks, the fifth pic shows a gun similar in condition to what I would be starting with. :o
 

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Jdavis said:
The original finish can be closely duplicated by a low pressure fine glass bead media. An even smoother slightly dull finish can be had using fine garnet media. I have not done this but have seen it done by a local gunsmith a number of years ago.
Click to expand...
Well, I had hoped to avoid the gunsmith for this work, but my OCPD may end up demanding it. :D I can probably live with the Model 63 with just a little home touch-up, but I'd really like that Model 65 to be brought back to it's full "as-new" glory if at all possible. They don't grow on trees around here and I've been searching for a long time for an unmarked late-70's Model 65 in great condition or at least restorable to great condition. I had to sell off the one I owned way back when and I've always regretted it. Unless I can find a vintage one still NIB, this may be my best chance to make things right again. :)
 
murphydog said:
Somewhere here on the Forum is a method to do this using different types of Scotchbrite pads...try a search and see if you can pull it up.
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I couldn't find anything using the search function or even Google... but I will try again when I have more time. I'm familiar with successful attempts to restore the finish on stainless steel 3rd Gens, but I think these old revolvers may need something more.
 
TTSH said:
Not really a matte finish... but not a smooth shiny finish either. :)

Here are some pix of what I'd like to achieve. I know lighting affects the looks of stainless steel a lot... but the first 3 pix tend to show a clean, almost-swirl-free, aluminum-like finish... not matte, but not shiny either. The last pic is in brighter lighting, but still not what anyone would call mirror shiny finish. Ignoring the terrible condition of the stocks, the fifth pic shows a gun similar in condition to what I would be starting with. :o
Click to expand...


I just use FLITZ (with a soft rag) I have brought back several guns from dingy looking. Deeper scratches use 320,400 600 grit wet dry first then flitz depending on how bad the scratch is. For the matte look, the 3M pads from an auto place are the thing to use,
 
I agree, Flitz will solve most finish problems on SS revolvers. It does a great job and you can make the gun as shinny as you want stopping when you iike what you see.
 
The 3M scotchbrite pads have worked best for me. It's a combination of technique using the pads (pressure and direction) and which ones to use.

I use a combination of the maroon (320-400 grit), green (600 grit) and white (1200-1500) pads. If I could find the light grey pads (800 grit), I'd use them over the white ones, it's too easy to end up with an unwanted polished surface, and that's where using a light pressure to scuff the surface comes into play... I think 800 grit is what S&W goes with on their buffing wheels.

The key is looking at the direction of the factory buffing pattern, and going with the "grain" direction with the pads. If you go in the wrong direction, like crosswise to the factory pattern, it will look bad.

I've found that a light touch on the pads works better... scuffing rather than a sanding pressure, to blend (feather) the shiny spots with the surrounding finish.

It's difficult to describe a particular feel I get when apply pressure to the pad that gets me the results I want.

Practice first... there are stainless side plates for cheap on eBay, get one of those without the S&W monogram and experiment with the pads until you can get the results you want, and then have a go at your guns.

This is my 657-2 that I spiffed up with the pads.
 

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Thanks Conrad, you've posted this exact information before, very helpful!
 
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Looks like I'll be picking up some Flitz tomorrow, along with a variety of 3M Scotch-Brite pads if I can find them all. :)

Thank you all for the advice! :) I'll let you know how it goes! :D
 
I have removed some light scratches and scuffs from both a Model 63 and a Model 65 using both the gray #7448 and white #7445 Scotchbrite pads. I cut them into pices about 1" square. The methods posted above are good, a light touch and following the factory grain pattern are important.
I also use them "wet" with a couple of drops of Break Free. Rub a few strokes, and then use a clean, soft cotton rag like a piece of an old T-shirt to wipe clean and observe your work.
 
You guys are giving me great ideas and the incentive to go ahead and redo my 4516 - 1 frame.
 
I remember a long time ago there was a member DHART that had the process well detailed in a post and his guns looked great and his photos looked awesome since he was a professional photographer. Try searching his name.
 
Has anybody ever done a Scotch-Brite finish on a bead blasted frame?
 
Update...

TTSH said:
Thank you all for the advice! :) I'll let you know how it goes! :D
Click to expand...
Well, the Model 63 got away from me... :( ... but I'm picking up the Model 65 today. :) I've already ordered the Flitz gun & knife kit and it should arrive soon. But where to get the full variety of Scotch-Brite pads mentioned in this thread has been a problem. :confused: I had hoped to pick them up locally, but I am striking out. I've got a new lead (an auto body supply shop) so I'll try again later today or tomorrow. :)
 
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