What is the recommended tool to remove an S&W Model 66-8 extractor rod?

There are lots of ways to manage this, including Vise Grips padded with leather. This is what I use and the major online sellers offer them.

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Wasn't this pretty much covered here:??


S&W Corporate Frustration

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Still Running Against the Wind

Whatever method or tool you use, make sure you have empty cases or dummies in the cylinder to spread out the torque on the legs of the extractor. On models that still have the alignment pins, this is even more important.

Some are LH threads?

Or bench vise with leather. Easy, as long as you know
which direction to turn!

I FRAMES after WWII changed to keft hand threads, but beware of a few that may still be right hand.

J FRAMES left hand from their introduction in 1950.

K and N FRAMES changed to left hand beginning with most -1 versions ~1961.

When in doubt on K and N frames: Only during the period of the change, look for the groove shown behind the knurling at the front and of the rod.

Often an L is stamped on the rear face of the cylinder during this period.

Note: the above is not true for I & J frames which were introduced with left hand threads after the war and do not have the groove cut behind the knurling.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

If a rod will just not unscrew with vise grips or vise, there's a point at which you must stop tightening and switch to the clamp style shown above.

Since the rod is hollow it can actually be flattened if clamped too tight!

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Jim
S&WCA #819

The extractor rod design used on the new production model 66 and 69s differs from the style most are used to. Please see the photo of my model 69 2.75". In the new guns, the extractor is not used as part of the cylinder lock-up but only to push out spent cases.

The knurled knob at the end of the rod does not allow complete removal of the cylinder from the yoke. I believe this knurled knob is threaded into/onto the extractor rod, however as I have not attempted to disassemble it am not sure if this knob has right or left hand threads.

Any info/pics from anyone who has actually disassembled one of these new cylinders would be appreciated.

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Anyone who owns or has access to a Drill Press need not buy a ER removal tool - the Jacobs Chuck works better! Hint - pull plug out of electrical outlet so the motor does not accidentally engage!

Why do I get the feeling this was a lesson learned the hard way?

No - I NEVER turned it on by accident because I decided to pull plug from the get-go My motto has always been the 6 P's :

Previous Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

I've used the drill press method several times, it works well.......

I just drilled a hole of the rod's diameter through a short piece of 3/8" diameter brass rod, then split one side lengthwise using a hacksaw. Slide it over the rod then squeeze and turn with a vise grip. I also lathe-turned two pieces of brass rod to fit snugly in the chambers instead of using empty cases, so no movement of the extractor star is possible. But I have used pliers and leather also.

The last time I wanted to remove an extractor rod, I found this old pair of Giller pliers really handy (with a bit of leather or sheet lead to protect the rod). I picked them up at a secondhand store a couple of years ago. Made in the 60's I think.

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