Please excuse me if this question is in the wrong section of the forum.
I have used Johnson's paste wax (in the yellow can) to help protect my rifles & shotguns from damp/wet weather. To help it adhere to the wood and metal, I always wiped the weapon down with a soft cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol.

Is there a better procedure to follow before applying Renaissance wax to my revolvers?

Also, do you reapply the Renaissance wax after every range/cleaning session?

Thanks,

WYT-P
Skyhunter

Isopropyl is probably OK as long as it is 90+%. I just use Denatured alcohol. (90% ethanol, 10% Methanol). You can get it at many hardware stores.

I like this stuff for a pre-wax cleaning.


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Slava Ukraini!

Explain to me again why we are putting wax that costs $8.00 and ounce on our firearms?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Because we all know that the more something costs the better it has to be .😉

I was just thinking the same thing......
IMHO of course ....
J

Cleaning: Yes, get all the crud off before waxing over it. And yes, I would clean and wax after each use. Very high % alcohol should work well.
Product: I spend the $8/oz, if that is what it is, for Renaissance Wax. For decades I used the yellow can Johnson's Paste Wax and was quite happy with it. Converting me was instantaneous when I tried a sample of Ren Wax that a friend sent home with me. There is in fact a difference for the better as far as I can report. I even tried some of each side-by-side on the same gun stock and metal. I didn't want to convert, but the proof was in the puddin'. I small can should go a long, long way. For results like that I'll gladly spend what it costs to get a mediocre burger and fries.

I tried the Renaissance Wax on the frame under some Model 41 grips and it looked decent. I have not done the whole pistol yet.

My question I have is you don't have to then oil the pistol because you used the wax to protect it? Not oiling a pistol is kind of a hard habit for me to break as I really hate seeing rust.

I would probably want to oil the pistol too but then that defeats using the wax. Any comments? I wasn't sure if the wax wears off and then you could get some rust not realizing the wax wore off. If I have to keep waxing it then that seems like more effort then just wiping it down with oil.

Only my blue guns get the wax. If I had any nickel guns I would wax them. Stainless and modern finishes get wiped with oily rags. If I shoot my blue guns I clean them with appropriate solvents and then they get multiple coats of wax. I figure the first three coats are to cut the oil. I actually enjoy waxing them. I know the wax can last for years but I still apply a thin coat ever few months. It’s always worked well for me.

I bought the 2 oz can of Renaissance way probably 10-12 years ago. I only put the wax on blued guns, and normally only on those I plan to store for a time and not shoot. If I am shooting a particular gun often I just clean normally and wipe down. I have around 100+ firearms and the 2 oz can is still half full after all this time. It takes so little to cover the guns. On my trap and skeet guns I do wax for protection against rain.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I bought Renaissance to use on antique guns at work. The results were very good - details hidden under the dirt and corrosion came to life. Renaissance does clean if properly applied. Tried it on my model 38 nickel finish which had some scratches and wear, and most of that cleaned up. It's worth the investment, and a little goes a long way.

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Heavily armed old man.

$20 every 10-20 years for that small canister is really cheap on a per firearm basis.

I got turned onto it back in the late '80s while studying photography. Prevents fingerprints on glossy prints, and seals B&W prints from turning brownish from sulfur compounds in the air attacking the silver and turning it to silver sulfide.

How many have used and compared RIG to Renaissance Wax? I have used the wax, but now prefer the lasting qualities of RIG and especially the ease of application. I can pull guns out of my safe that I have forgotten I own and they still have a layer of protection as if they were done yesterday. Some have said that it seems like RIG will leave a greasy mess, but I can state that you can take them from the safe directly to the range without needing to wipe them down. With the applicator, one only applies a very small amount of RIG grease and if you have not tried it, please do so and report back.

Attached Images

RIG Grease.jpg (94.9 KB, 65 views)

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Because we like, respect, and value our firearms.

Just as good.
Isn't.


Prescut

I use RIG on all my firearms in storage. Renaissance Wax is only used on blades and firearms that are on display.

Because there worth it.

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Len

It is my personal opinion that while Renwax is a fine product (have it myself) it is not very practical to be used on working firearms. Each time the gun is shot and cleaned it would then have to be degreased and treated once again. This is a lot of work and IMHO does not offer the same level of protection from moisture as does oils and preservative greases. Believe it or not I do use the Renwax but not on guns at all! I find it to work alright but would not trust it in the prevention of rust. YMMV.

I could see it if you were making a shadow box for a prized pistol or something and never intending on shooting it again, but for a gun that is going to be used - nope!

Thanks guys. I will also add that I do use wax when photographing guns that I am selling of documenting. I have an 1851 book, Hints to Sportsmen - Hints on Shooting, on guns and hunting that says a very important thing in a hunter's knapsack is an old greasy rag. Still true to this day.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Do "waxers" also wax the bore??

I actually do t know if you are serious but I will give you a serious answer. I have and actually prefer to wax the bore and chambers. There was once the theory that it could cut down on leading. It actually made sense because so many of the early bullet lubes were a wax. I had a 360J with a carbon cylinder reamed to 357 and asked if I should coat the bare metal or just keep a heavy coat of wax on the metal. The response was if I shoot the gun regularly, like is should, the bore and chambers will not rust.

My guess is that the first shot will burn all the wax out of the barrel and leave you with ash. Subsequent firing will be pretty much metal to metal as with oil

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Ren Wax can also be used on sterling silver, brass and copper to significantly reduce tarnishing. Collectable S&W belt buckles, silver picture frames, brass fireplace pokers? A little goes a LONG way.

The only guns I wax are the ones to put in the boxes Wrapped in VCI paper and put in the safe. I clean and oil them, then spray the outer parts with denatured alchohol, ren wax the exterior and put them up. I really only use the ren wax for long term storage. My shooters are all put away with a coating of Barricade every time i put them up. Works for me.

You must have different guns than me. I shoot mine a lot before needing to re-wax. Are you sure you're not just fondling them?
No way more than once a year is needed unless you remove it with other products. How often do you re-wax your car? What's the difference?

It's easy to know when they need it. I start seeing finger prints.

Oil and grease leave finger prints as soon as I touch them. Oil and grease attracts and holds dirt. Oil turns wood grips black.
I prefer shiny to oily and/or greasy.

Why does the NRA collection and the gun museums use Renaissance Wax? or the FBI?