Need Help - Savage Fox Model B Shotgun

I recently acquired a Savage Fox Model B double barrel shotgun from another Forum member here. The buttstock has some significant damage that will likely require me to replace it (see photos). My question pertains to the recoil pad. While I have removed quite a few recoil pads and butt plates from shotguns in my life, I’ve not had the experience of removing one that has no apparent screws attaching the recoil pad to the stock. I surmise that the pad is glued to the stock. Does anyone know for sure? Anyone have experience removing one of these in one piece? If at all possible, I would like to reuse this pad once the buttstock is repaired or replaced. I know that fitting a new one correctly requires a fair amount of skill. Any advice or guidance that you are willing to provide is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ryon

Probably not the original recoil pad, but I'm not sure. On the ones I have installed over the years, I made a very small slit in the pad with a razor blade, just above where the screw would be installed. The screw was then carefully inserted into the pad, after I applied some oil or vaseline. After the screw is pushed through the tiny slit in the pad, it's almost impossible to see the opening once the job is finished. Perhaps there's a "slit" there somewhere......but just very hard to see.

The other possibility is the pad was glued in place.

Ryan

It is not glued on. Take a number two size Phillips screwdriver and push down on the soft rubber towards where you would expect to find the two attachment screws. The rubber will open up and you should be able to insert the screwdriver into the holes. Unthread the screws and the pad will come off. I doubt the screws will come out of the pad. Looks like some super heavy loads were shot in it. Enjoy the gun they are good shooters

Kelly

Depending on what glue was used, I am sure there is a solvent that would loosen it. Probably would be hard on the recoil pad and stock finish as well. Maybe a heat gun (hair dryer)?

I'm thinking there are a couple of well hidden screws there somewhere.

I believe Pachmayr still makes that model recoil pad, and it would be softer than an old, hardened pad. That's what I would do if re-stocking.

Larry

No glue generally,,just screwed on.
(Unless the person that did the job decided glue as an added fastener would be a nice touch!)

In pic#4 you can see where the upper screw is positioned by the light colored spacer/tube you can see within the vent area of the pad.
If you pull the face of the pad apart at the center with your opposing thumbs, it should expose those razor slits that Browningcollector mentions.
The screws are pushed through those clean cuts in the rubber pad and then the pad closes back up to hide the evidence of the screw position.

The screws are generally phillips head type that's what is supplied in the package with the pads as sold,
But I've run accross regular slotted head screws being used as well usually on older guns.
Even Drywall screws with that square drive socket head on them.

Use some grease on the pad and the screwdriver tip so as not the tear the rubber up in removing or installing. In this case if you are thinking of re-using the pad.

Often you can remove one screw and simply swivel the pad to the side to expose the hole where the through bolt is located.
Make sure the one screw removed is clear of the bottom of the pad so it doesn't scar the edge of the wood when the pad is swung over.

If not,, remove both. The pad may back off the wood w/o the screws actually coming back out through the rear face of the pad.

A long shank screw driver or sometimes the through bolt is a hex drive bolt. Use a light to check and see.

A slim socket and a long extension drive on a socket wrench for the hex bolt type (Usually don't find many of these except on recent mfg guns)

If you use a straight blade screwdriver make sure the blade is actually in the slot of the bolt head and not laying along side of the head down in there when you crank on it to loosen.
If the latter is done, quite often the leverage of the blade against the side of the bolt head will split out the side of the stock.

Your stock can be saved.
Clean up the uneven splintered off edges and glue (epoxy) in new wood.
It's a simple flat inside surface. No inletting inside and a flat surface up against the back of the frame.
Epoxy bed it if you need to.

Reshape the repair pieces to conform to the orig stock shape and finish.

Many times it's a lot easier to repair than to fit a new pre-carve 95% stock and finish.
You may be able to find a take off orig mfg stock in good condition for a good price as an alternative. Ebay, ect.
They generally bolt right on but I'd pay close attention to the frame to stock inletting and glas bed it if needed.

The damage may have come from the stock being a bit loose,,no drawn up tight to the frame. Recoil pushes the action up and back and that cracks and breaks the top of the 'ears' of the stocks off.

IIRC a stock from the Stevens 311 should fit the Stevens/FOX B series as well.
But check the tang shape where it meets the frame on top,
There a couple different styles no matter which model, and one will not interchange with the other.
2 frame sizes as well IIRC.

You guys are awesome and absolutely correct. There are tiny slits in the pad. The guy that installed the pad used regular slotted screws. I have the pad off and I will repair the stock whenever I can get around to it. Thanks to all that responded. Very helpful and I sincerely appreciate it. You guys and this forum are great.
Thanks,
Ryon