WANT TO RENT, BORROW 32H&R MAG CYLINDER REAMER

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I SEARCHED AND SEARCHED TO AVAIL. I REMEMBER A FORUM MEMBER WHO HAD A REAMER FOR THE CYLINDER. TO CHANGE A S&W .32 LONG TO .32 H&R MAG. OR HE WAS PERFORMING IT FOR A FEE. PLEASE CONTACT ME VIA EMAIL OR PM. JP

P.S. I HAVE LOANED OUT MY S&W 3RD GEN SIGHT PUSHER NUMEROUS TIMES TO FORUM MEMBERS. IF YOU KNOW WHO THIS IS WITH THE REAMER. PLEASE HOOK US UP. JP
 
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I may have been the poster you recall.

Using a 32 H&R reamer:
I bought a Clymer's .32 H&R reamer from Brownells: # 184-051-320AK $84.86; Rimmed Finisher Style Reamer fits .32 H&R Mag Cylinder : CLYMER PISTOL CHAMBERING REAMERS | Brownells

I removed the pilot bushing, it's slightly too large for the .32 chamber throats or if you want to use the pilot bushing you can dress it down to fit the throats. But I don't feel it's needed because the reamer goes into the chamber snugly almost all the way before it starts cutting and will guide itself straight. So little material is removed that you can ream the chambers by hand with a ‘T’‘ handle or use a drill press if the speed can be adjusted slow enough.

REAMING 32 TO 32 H&R MAG

Buy or rent a 32 H&R Mag reamer for a revolver (not a rifle reamer).

Lightly clamp the cyl in a padded vise with the rear face pointing up. Apply cutting oil and the reamer will go all the way into the chambers as you twist it slowly by hand. The sharp reamer will be snug with slight removal of metal and the bluing inside the chamber until the free spinning pilot bushing enters the chamber throat. The pilot in the throats of the chambers will align the reamer straight in the chamber and it will align the cyl vertically in the vise, now tighten the vise all the way.

The front end of the reamer cutting flutes will bottom on the existing .32 long shoulder in the chamber and cutting begins. Stop when the reamer's recess cutting edges start to touch the mouth of the chamber. You don't want to recess the chambers because, you do not want the chamber mouths to be recessed, headspace will be too wide.

To ream, use a T handle (a treading tap T handle works great) or rent with the reamer to keep it straight up and down while applying constant medium pressure and turn the reamer clockwise until the case mouth chamber shoulder is shaved and extended. It only takes a couple of minutes or so per hole. Do that six times and your done.

The secret is to turn the reamer very slowly and keep even pressure on the reamer while it's turning. Don't push too hard or it'll try to cut too big a chunk and you can get 'chatter'; you want to avoid 'chatter' to have a nice smooth cutting action. USE PLENTY of cutting oil as you turn the reamer and remove the reamer occasionally to clean metal chips out of the cutting flutes.

I ream in a drill press on the slowest speed setting and use lots‘a cutting oil. Either by hand or using the drill press, stop once or twice per chamber, pull out the reamer to clean away chips. You can also mount the cyl squarely in a vise and use a variable speed hand drill to turn the reamer but be careful not to apply side pressure and keep it straight up and down.

Most small drill presses won't go slow enough and will create chatter. So if you have a drill press w/o a slow enough speed, you can chuck up the reamer and use the chuck key to hand turn with one hand and hold pressure on the drill press feed handle with the other hand. Don't use a crescent wrench or ratchet handle, it's too easy to apply sideways pressure and oblong the chamber holes.

Check each chamber when done to be sure loaded rounds will go in all the way to the rim, clean and use touch up blue if you want, and you're done.

Hope this helps,
 
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JUST AN UPDATE FOR ANYONE WHO WAS WONDERING. BORROWED A .32 H&R MAG REAMER. TOOK ABOUT 35-40 MIN BY HAND. IT WORKED PERFECTLY. EASY TO SHOOT. AND 1 EXTRA ROUND FROM A REGULAR SNUB. HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT. JP
 
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