What type/brand brake cleaner is safe to clean firearms with ?

Brake Cleaner is nasty stuff for your health! I would use it only as a last resort and IF you do choose to use it, the non chlorinated type is probably a bit safer. ONLY use it outdoors and spray down-wind. I would also wear gloves. I do use Brake Cleaner on rare occasion (as a last resort if nothing else works) but I do take the precautions I mentioned above.

I use the CRC brand which is available in most auto stores.

Maybe it is just me but I much prefer using gun cleaning products for cleaning guns. I know many people say that nonclorinated brake cleaner is just the same thing as.........but it is just not in my comfort zone.

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is what you want. The whole "gun cleaners for cleaning guns" attitude is always amusing, since most gun cleaners are repurposed cleaning agents from other industries simply repackaged. Products like Gun Scrubber are just repackaged brake cleaner with a ten time price mark up. Yes, brake cleaner is a toxic chemical, but so are most of the cleaners used in the gun industry. I use it on stainless guns, but nothing with a finish. Chlorinated will damage plastics, non-chlorinated will not.

Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, but still use it outside. It is true that aerosol gun cleaning products are often relabeled and expensive cans of non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I use non chlorinated brake cleaner on slides and metal frames. Gets into the nooks and crannies and cleans everything out. Way cheaper than the same product with a “gun cleaner” label on it.

I never use it on plastic frames or parts. For that I use Shooters Choice Polymer Safe cleaner. Follow either one with compressed air and a light lube. Always wear gloves and eye protection and always spray outside.

Compare the labels of Gun Scrubber and Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. Then compare the price tags.

I've used brake cleaner many times in the past to deep clean/degrease gun parts with no ill effect to the firearm or myself. Try to keep it off wood stocks because you do risk discoloration of the stock. But usually a light coat of gun oil will bring it back to life. Same thing with blued metal. But, if you want to do it right, get some of this.....Same rule apply



Just remember, it will degrease/de-oil everything so proper lubing will be required after use.

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SIC SEMPER TYRANNIS

Non Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner from Walmart . A fraction of the cost of the gun labelled products . Safe on polymer guns , but it WILL degrease anything you use it on .

The can of CRC Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner I bought at Walmart says right on the can not to use on rubber, plastic, or painted surfaces.

Read the warning on the can. Says not safe for plastics. They used to have a polymer safe version but I don’t see that anymore. I buy the Shooter’s Choice from Amazon.

Non chlorinated brake parts cleaner Autozone brand is the best I've used for the money.

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Stang1911

That's repackaged brake cleaner.

Non-chlorinated is the way I go. I don't ingest it in any way. Last time I read it, I think it was acetone, toluene, methanol and some things I didn't recognize or recall.

Use common sense, only hit metal parts with it and you should be fine.

ETA: I looked at the MSDS for Gun Scrubber and it doesn't list any of the 3 things above. Isopropyl Alcohol, Pentanes and other stuff I'm clueless about. I left my chemistry degree in my other pants. I'll stick with brake parts cleaner.

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Just Say No - To Social Media

Ummm, not really.....

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SIC SEMPER TYRANNIS

Same here. I also like to use laundry detergent in the washing machine and not look for a safe to use car soap instead.

I've been using it for years and only use it outside over my burn barrel. Works great.

I tried brake cleaner before but it seems like I use too much a can goes in no time for me plus depending on your shop and be ventilation the fumes linger forever. I probably use too much I always have when working on cars seems like I need a case of the stuff and will only have a can or too.
And whatever you do, ALWAYS point it away from your face if you ever use the coffee straw and it pops out!! Years ago I made that mistake and I got some in my eye and WOW it lit me up, I ran into the kitchen and bad back and all was bend over backwards under the kitchen sink trying to flush that devil juice from my eyeball!! It makes OC spray look like milk

On guns I'm an acetone fan, I buy it by the gallon at Lowe's or wherever and it last me several months depending on how many I do but I always have it on standby. I use a towel, will use some of the blue shop paper towels for heavy carbon or gunk until I get whatever clean enough to use a towel to finish up.
It evaporates quickly too, not too fast but it doesn't linger or leave any film that you have to go back over with.
Much like brake cleaner it doesn't like any type of finish so keep it away from grips obviously and it doesn't like plastic as it will dissolve it over time but it's not as bad as some think. I have used it for bad tar on wheels on cars and even paint occasionally.
Try some acetone if you've never used it before and see if you don't like it better.

" Safe to clean firearms" spans and includes a whole lot of firearms and firearm finishes ... I have a couple S&W Airlight & Airweight revolvers that have some poor clear coat finish on them ... harsh cleaners took that clear finish off , after the gun was left in flood waters for two weeks , a soaking in some Ed's Red Bore Cleaner took some patches of the clear finish off !
What you use depends on what the gun is made of ...
blue or stainless steel , brake cleaner would be ok ...it's harsh like Acetone .
Use your head and look at your gun ...spray / painted on finish , don't use the harsh stuff .
Do what Aretha says to do ... You gotta Think !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Amazing, using brake cleaner on firearms?! Why? There are many firearm safe products that will get the job done without taking precautions!

I use carburetor cleaner on occasion. Same as non clorinated brake cleaner.

Brake cleaner is best for removing kerosene after metal parts have been bathed in kerosene overnight in order to remove water molecules remaining after various water-based processes (like rust-bluing).

Keep in mind that many, if not all of these pressurized solvents are very flammable, and can pose a very real and significant health risk through skin contact and inhalation. Whether you decide to use this horrible stuff is up to you of course, but, if you do, please remember to read and follow label instructions. Wear disposable gloves. Protect your eyes. Keep these products out of the reach of your children and grandchildren.

From an armorer's perspective, these products strip the surfaces they contact of all protective coatings and lubricant. Because of their inherent characteristics, this will include surfaces that cannot be reached without complete disassembly. As a result, oxidation of the stripped surfaces and components may occur, especially if pressurized sprays are applied directly to the parts assemblies and components.

In addition, these types of volatile solvents are not really necessary for typical cleaning scenarios that most of us encounter. Deeper cleaning, if necessary, may require seeking a professional gunsmith's help, or the judicious use of an ultrasonic machine used with a suitable additive specifically designed for firearms.

As others have said, there are many plant and oil based products that are safer, both for you and your firearms. Other options include products sold by Iosso, Blue Wonder, M-Pro 7, and many others. They are, for the most part biodegradable, non-flammable, and reduce dangers brought to the work table by aerosol solvents.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I use either brake or carb cleaner mostly on my old Ruger Mark 1 since assembly is a pain. All of the precautions given above are very good---with adding also saftey glasses and always remove the grips first.

You mentioned use of a sonic cleaner. Would a sonic bath in ultrasonic lubricant without a full disassembly of the frame or slide be something worth looking into?

Unless you are shooting and cleaning large numbers of firearms, the cost of these devices is prohibitive in my opinion. They do a great job though, and don't leave the gun stripped of it's protective layer of lubricant which is left behind by the proper solutions used in the machine. Ultrasonic cleaning certainly doesn't preclude normal, regular maintenance procedures, but makes it much easier on a large scale.

While some large police agencies and military units use this option, it would seem impractical for most of us who shoot only occasionally, or enjoy the sport as a hobby. My department uses slave laborers called "factory trained armorers" for this tedious hand work.

A little research online will give you a good idea if it's affordable and feasible for you.

Gun Cleaning Clinic: Ultrasonics - The King Of Cleaning | Top Rated Supplier of Firearm Reloading Equipment, Supplies, and Tools - Colt

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I already have a 2 liter ultra sonic. Bought it to clean brass but it doesn’t do such a great job. I use it now for gun parts like AR bolts and revolver cylinders. I rinse the parts off, blow with compressed air, and then dry in a case dryer to get whatever moisture might be left.

I lube where I should lube after a normal clean, but the nooks and crannies aren’t getting any lube, so I was wondering if a quick dip in ultrasonic lube would get everything out. I wasn’t planning on investing more than $100 for a Harbor Freight cleaner for the lube process.

Good question jimmyj,
So on the product label of CRC Brakleen green can (non-chlorinated) it contains acetone, carbon dioxide and heptanes.

On the product label of Break Free Power Blaster gun cleaner contains acetone, Toluene and carbon dioxide.
Toluene is very TOXIC!!!!

BTW jimmyj both have a warning "reproductive harm" so keep it away from your junk!!! LOL

I would say use the green can of CRC Brakleen.