I've used CLP for years. I ran out last week so I was looking to replenish. I didn't want another aerosol can because I don't finish them before the propellant runs out.

The prices were shocking. A 0.68 ounce bottle was roughly $10 at wallyworld.

Then I found this on Amazon Resale for $77. That's $0.66/ounce. It was 33% off and unopened.

I never thought about buying an entire gallon but I suppose it'll last me the rest of my life if I don't have any accidents.

I have smaller bottles I can pour it into for application.

I don't know if I'm a sucker for a deal or just a sucker.

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Low viscosity synthetic motor oil is essentially the same as CLP.

I've aware of the basic similarities, but I would think the additives in each are more specialized for their intended purposes.

I've used CLP for nearly 40 years with no issues. It doesn't set up or stiffen the action like some other popular products.

Egzactly.
In fact we recently went on sidetrack discussing this on another thread.
Even if they started with the same base stock and viscosity grade, the additive package for a Mil-spec CLP (such as Break Free) needs to meet different requirements than a motor oil.

If one was interested enough, for about $30 one can send a sample of CLP for analysis in the same manner as a virgin or used engine oil.

Summary of CLP Requirements


from here MIL-PRF-63460 F CLEANER LUBRICANT PRESERVATIVE WEAPONS

Automotive and diesel engine oils usually meet current ILSAC API and SAE specs. (Although if you are into 1960s vehicles, hot rodding or racing there's some preference for a anti-wear package that meets one of the older requirements. Ford also specs there own version of that requirement for some of their diesels.)
Many, including myself, think that Richard Widman's paper on Oil for flat tappet engines is a one of the best overviews of automotive oils (for those of us who aren't tribologists)
Pdf on his website here Classic Car oil

Out of curiousity, lets see if we can compare the viscosity requirements of CLP to SAE motor oil grades.

CLP with solvent at 40 *C should be a minimum of 14 cSt.
Well, even a 0W grade is above 14 cSt at 40 degrees so I would say all 0W- oils and higher exceed the minimum.

CLP when the solvent evaporates should have a viscosity of 5000 cSt or thinner at -40*. While thats not directly comparable to any automotive spec, we can use a calculator to learn viscosity at -40 is for a typical 0W-20. That turns out to be 16,500 centiStoke.

So it seems that from subfreezing temperatures to well over 100*F engine oils are generally higher viscosity (thicker) than CLP.

^^^ Wow!

....

From what I’ve gathered Radco now makes the military’s CLP. Amazon sells it . Radcolube.

No shortage of Chemical Engineers and Tribologists on gun forums ..

Holy guacamole!!

I could not use that much gun oil in 10 life times!

I have a 1 ounce bottle of Clenzoil I've used for 21 months. Today it is a tad over 1/2 full. I clean my firearms after every use. I hit the range about once a month with typically 3 firearms.

I paid $9.77 for 1 ounce bottle of Clenzoil. That seems absurd.

A $10 1 quart bottle of Mobil 1 full synthetic 0-20W would last me 128 years, and I'll bet my firearms will NEVER know the difference.

I've been using Clenzoil for a long time. I thinkyou payed too much.Clenzoil 01 Field & Range Rust Prevent - Knife Country, USA

I have a one pound can of Johnson’s Paste Wax which I have used on my guns since the late 1980s. Probably 90% of it is still in the can. A little wax goes a long way. As I have said previously, plain 3-in-1 household oil, or similar, is an excellent bore cleaner. A quart of Mobil 1 0-20W will probably be a lifetime+ supply of CLP substitute for most shooters.

My interest in viscosity does not extend beyond pancake batter.

I just use Ballistol.

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Who are those guys?

Thanks, Matt_X. I know nearly nothing about lubricants except that I want my gun to function and not wear excessively or rust. I appreciate it when someone goes technical and offers solid information to the forum. I generally learn something from those posts. So often, responses are filled with uninformed anecdotes. People spout off with uniformed notions that can lead others into the weeds. I value posts from a position of knowledge.

I've used CLP for years and have nothing disparaging to say about it. That's not an assertion there are no other, or possibly better, products out there, it's just worked for my purposes.

Everything is expensive. My small bottle of CLP is several years old and I still have most of it. I clean my guns after every shooting (I know, too often), and this small bottle still lasts forever. Many folks use WAY more lubricant that is needed.

Appreciate all the comments myself. Been using CLP for quite a while for lubricant. Heard there are better products for lead removal from bores like Hoppes perhaps so still using that for powder lead removal after shooting Trap with my 1100. Like Rem-Oil myself also.

I have used Break Free CLP for about as long as it has been out, and am satisfied. Not really the best product at any one thing, it does all jobs well.

I think your shooting friends will be showing up at your house shortly with little bottles in their hands....

Larry

I had that thought when I was getting to retire from the Army in 1988. The building I was assigned to was also being closed out. I saved a gallon of CLP, a gallon of LSA and 2 gallons of RBC from the dumpster.

All that is left is about half a gallon of LSA. Some things like to run a little wet.

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Let's just say I have more than a few firearms.

I just got off the phone with a buddy I shoot with and told him to bring his bottle over.

Yes, it's a lot. This should be a lifetime supply for me and my sons. The way things are going, a half pint is going to cost this much in a few years.

I have got a little bit of most, CLP, different gun oils, Balistoil etc.... I have used some military grade "Instrument Oil" to see how it works and it seems to do OK. Have two quarts of it in the mil-spec green cans. I do use Mobil 1 0-20 in our car, so if needed, I have some of it too.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

It took me about 4 years to use up 4 ozs. of Hoppe's No. 9 Gun Bore Cleaner. I just bought a new bottle that's 5 ozs. for $5.25. I should be good on that to about 2030. Several years ago I made the mistake of buying a 12 ozs. can of Hoppe's No. 9 Foaming Bore Cleaner. I don't use it because it leaves 4" of foam in the dispenser tube, I have to clean the little 1/4" diameter tube with a small Q-tip so it doesn't smell.

I’d fill up an old school oil can with flexible wand for garage and some syringe type dispensers for guns. When you have that much you’ll start using it for lots of things….. maybe even salad dressing ?

I collect gun oil cans and bore cleaner bottles. Since most have been opened I use them. Especially the Hoppe's bottles. This one is a 32 Oz. bottle and is about 3/4 full, will take a while to finish it off.

Don't like the smell of Hoppe's? To most gun guys that is a aftershave or perfume!

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I also use CLP. and i also use Rem Oil.
I have an old t-shirt soaked in Rem oil, CLP maybe outers oil and probably other gun oils i use it to wipe my guns down after i handle them.is this a good idea or not?

Yes, it probably is, but I am not an expert. There are probably a few posting here. Maybe you can identify them.

BTW, a good friend of mine who was an LGS owner for many years came into possession of a large jug of Breakfree CLP, and split it into smaller containers. However, he did this before reading the "Shake before using" instruction on the jug. I'm sure that the remaining oil was just fine by itself, but does anyone here know what that white stuff at the bottom was? I'm pretty sure that it was part of the L in CLP, but I don't actually know.

Anyone here know the answer? I am posting primarily to warn anyone else who may have occasion to split a bottle of Breakfree CLP.

TIA.

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Formerly Model520Fan

I don't believe I have come even close to using that much CLP in my lifetime! Heck of a deal though at $0.66/ounce an ounce!

I gotta say, the stuff you have in your house and garage is going to be very well lubricated after a while!

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Life Member GOA and NRA

I think you will be OK splitting it up if its well shaken at the time of the split...but good point.

I have saturated rags for just that purpose.
Concerning Remoil, if you oil the action of a firearm that isn't used regularly and the action seems stiff the next time you get it out, that's my experience with Remoil. Breakfree CLP won't do that.

Ballistol would be safe to use for salad dressing from what I have read.

I’ve been using CLP Break-free since around the time it came out I guess. Zero complaints. Makes for a quick and easy wipe down for simply keeping my CCW clean in between deep cleanings.

I see more actions gummed up and crusty from Remoil than dirt.

I have since migrated away from the product completely, replaced with Ballistol.

Remoil is not welcome on this bench.

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Both products contain mainly mineral oil just saying.

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Stang1911

Back when I was in the service, our shop got a whole case of this in. We really had no use for it on the aircraft. It was going to be pitched in the trash, so I rescued it. IIRC there were 48 bottles in the case. I have used some and given some away, this is the last of the Mohicans. On the label is a MFG DATE of 5-87 and a TEST DATE of 5-90. It still works, how long is this stuff good for?

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I have G96 in spray cans I got in a bulk purchase years ago. The first one has yet to run out.

I think you got a great deal.
If you don’t use it, someone else will.
I have some and I’m now on a Ballistol kick.

Same here and when it first came out, it had an odd smell to it. Back then we called it "banana oil" because of the smell.

I have been told that it's Teflon that the liquid carries into places as a lube. Don't know if that's true or not, I'm not a chemist.

Breakfree CLP is great stuff - I still use it but I have been slowly replacing it with G96 Synthetic in the yellow bottle. I find that it is equal to the BF as a rust preventative and in lubrication qualities, but I find it cleans a little better than the BF does. I havre now been buying the G96 in bulk and refilling the small convenient bottles.

Probably one of the very best products on the market is Ballistol. I have tried to use it on several occasions and just can not get past the horrible smell! Because of that I have given my supply away. I only wish it smelled a little better as I know i is a good safe and effective product.

When youy have tough leading, fouling and powder residue to clean, nothing beats Hoppes 9. I still have a few bottles of the original formula in stock and only use it when nothing else will cut it. I have not had to buy the new version yet but understand while it still woks well it is not nearly as good as the old stuff that contains Benzene. Used with rubber gloves and outdoors (or in the garage with the door opened and a fan going) is the way to go for me. I love the smell - but am aware it is not the best for breathing in. As much as I love it, Mrs. Chief38 is not much of a fan.

And I have yet to see any of the varnishing that occurs regularly with RemOil.

There are many excellent products available for cleaning and lubrication of firearms. My opinion, born of my limited experience, is that RemOil is not one of these.

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You could fill small bottles from your gallon jug of CLP and give it to friends. I'm sure they would appreciate it.

Is there any reason not to use low viscosity synthetic motor oil in place of CLP? I mean, us Ed's Red aficionados have been successfully using ATF for decades.

First, CLP is a generic term and many companies claim to make a product that cleans, lubricates, and protects. My way of thinking is that these types of products have to compromise on one or more properties. Protection against rusting over time requires a very low volatility product and nothing can beat grease. RIG applied to gun metal and it will last for years, not months like light volatile oils. I also believe that there are better bore cleaners on the market specifically made to clean lead, copper, and powder, but nothing more. There are also very high quality lubricants on the market that are only meant to lubricate moving parts. Personally, I prefer to have each of the best three products rather than a combo product that is not all that good at any particular use???

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Gary
SWCA 2515

"...not all that good at any particular use???"

Seriously?

I'm the OP. I first starting using Breakfree CLP around 1986. I know that ownership has changed and so has the formula, but it's still a very good all around product.

I also know that expecting everyone on this forum to agree on anything isn't realistic. Lot's of 'experts' and lots of opinions.

I've found the product to meet my needs very well. I don't shoot 1000 rounds in between cleanings so lead buildup isn't a major problem. I do use a little axle grease on AR bolts but other than that CLP is the only product I use (on the metal). I have firearms that I haven't wiped down in years and rust/corrosion is not a problem.

I'm not a gunsmith, so I don't need specialized products for every need. This bottle, barring any accidents, should last me the rest of my years and I'll be able to share with my sons and a buddy or two.

For those of you who like to slather on a thick protective coating and don't trust a "light volatile oil", might I suggest this:

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I found a product called Gunzilla BC-10 CLP many years ago at a gun show and got a small bottle to try. I've been using it ever since. It works very well and has a very pleasant smell. It is produced by Top Duck. I read several reviews by military and LE. I have purchased two 16oz Bottles over time and fill up the original 4oz bottle.

Motor oil can be hygroscopic, relying upon high motor temps to get rid of moisture it attracts. Varnishing can be an issue as well.

In our revolvers, less is better for long term reliability. The amount of thickened gunk I fish out of revolver actions by folks overlubricating and using bad product is appalling.

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I buy military Bore Cleaner at the gun shop, gun shows, swap meets and antique stores. Most of the cans are dated, so you can tell WW II, Korea and Viet Nam eras apart.


The bottle of Breakfree CLP that I have is date 5-87. It still seems to work well. I do not use it as a lube, just for cleaning.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I have used Breakfree CLP for decades. There is nothing better imo. A 4 Oz bottle is under $10 everywhere I buy it and last me about 2 years and I use it a lot. I’m perplexed how people are going through lube so fast. I’ve probably lubed and wiped down 50 guns without going through 2oz.

Get a needle oiler and a microfiber cloth. All lube and protection needs met for a decade on 50 revolvers

Your source for this?
From what I've found, shelf life is indefinite.
Once applied and exposed to air, 5 years according to another source.

You mean like this? Have several of these.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I’d also like to add that Breakfree CLP is the best common gun oil I’ve ever used for corrosion protection. There are better but they are specialty products and worth it to me but not totally necessary. I consider corrosion protection far more important than lubricant requirements. For instance Breakfree collector is absolutely top notch for storage. I’ve had stuff wiped down with Breakfree collector oil for over 6 years still have the oil on it. But I’ve noticed clp will eventually be dry looking but no corrosion