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I think you mean LH side?

If you file the window you file the lh side. Thats the side by the cylinder release. You never file the hand. First the hand is hardened and the file won't cut it. Second, the hand thickness is what turns the cylinder to the proper carry up. I posted this in the past. Copy and pasted for...

Shoot it and enjoy it. If the gun starts misbehaving then fix it at that time.

Alejandro, if your friend has a lathe, that would be my first choice. Most people don't have a lathe so I think of another option for these people. I'd just press it into the original hole. Go .0005-.001 inch bigger than the hole and use a mallet to seat it. Use the locktite on that as well...

Hello Alejandro. If S&W won't send you the part, you can fix it yourself. I measured a 29-2 here, so hopefully the pin size is the same. You need to find a #38 drill bit. The shank of the drill is exactly the size you need. The drill measures 2.566mm or .101 inch. Normally the pins are...

That is a cylinder stop issue. Make sure the spring is there and the screw is threaded in to support the stop. On the binding. If it still binds up, open the cylinder, then pull back the cylinder release. While holding the release rearward, dryfire the gun. If it binds, the problem is still...

Depress the center pin to un hook the cylinder so you can swing it open. Otherwise, you must open the side plate to remove the broken part inside. It will be quite obvious what broke when you open it up. If your not confident in opening the side plate to un-hook the offending part, then...

It's not the lock. Something broke inside? Pull the cylinder release back, this will check the bolt is working. Are you sure you can see an air gap between the cylinder and barrel? Thr rattle you hear is the hammer block. That's normal.

Possibly part of the bullet (jacket/lead) got stuck in the air gap. By brushing the barrel it knocked it out and the cylinder rotates again. A too tight air gap can cause the cylinder to drag. Like Joni says, if the extractor gets crud underneath, it will push the cylinder forward, and tighten...

Before you buy anything, remove the internals and rub a stone on the inside of the frame. Many times there are burrs rubbing on the side of the hammer causing those marks.

Guess what? Me too! The best part is you don't need solvent when cleaning the chambers. Then I wash the brush in soapy water to reuse it again in the future. Of course someone with destroy their cylinder with one so the advise is to use it with care. I brush my chambers 2-3 times and go to...

I wouldn't carry a 44 mag for personal protection, unless your afraid of a sasquatch while hiking. I think the 44 mag would be hard to control off hand and slow for rapid fire. Above all, the muzzle blast will cause you hearing damage if fired in the right places, i.e. inside your car or...

Quick to pay me with paypal. Thank you 625!

Waiting for payment on all brass.

500 Mag brass and reloading boxes still available.

New gun? Plastic moon clips? Factory main spring? Dirty under extractor, or a lot of end shake? Reloads? Primers seated all the way? I don't know if they tune the new guns or not. You need to check the tension on the hammer. In the faq it shows what the tension of the hammer is. Basically...

Is there a set screw on the sight? If not, clean the sight well then add a drop of locktite #609 on the sight base.

If you tighten the rod properly, you don't need loctite. S&W doesn't use locktite, and neither do I. Also, once it's tightened up, don't unscrew it every time you clean the gun. This is one area you should leave alone unless you are servicing the revolver.

Well I take them apart and scrape all the carbon out, then relube. Look in the faq above for the basic write up. And yes, a few drops of breakfree will keep it going for another 1000 or so, before a good cleaning is needed again.

And lighter!