27-2 hammer rub
- Thread starter Retired W4
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Aircrewman
Member
Several of my Smiths have a similar rub mark. Additionally, I have noticed this over the many years that I have had my various Smith and Wesson revolvers, both new and used. I have never noticed any difficulties with function in them and aside from the somewhat unsightly rub marks, my revolvers have functioned normally. I am not certain that there is anything that can be done or should be done. Perhaps a more knowledgable member will add to this.
stang1911
Member
POWER CUSTOM HAMMER S/S WASHERS .002 THICK UNDER THE HAMMER IF THERE IS SOME PLAY.
Sometimes cold blue will darken those marks, more often it won't (the case-hardened finish seems to vary in its reception to cold bluing). Might be worth a try to make the mark less noticeable if shimming with that aforementioned washer has now established some clearance.
Or a new hammer could be tried, they aren't too expensive, but of course you would again have to have clearance so the marks don't just return. Sometimes just swapping in a new hammer/trigger eliminates the marking, but this is hit or miss and I really don't know why it sometimes occurs.
Pre-war and early post-war S&W revolvers seem to have this problem much less; the tolerances were better, more attention was seemingly paid to "centering" the hammer and trigger re those frame and sideplate bosses.
Or a new hammer could be tried, they aren't too expensive, but of course you would again have to have clearance so the marks don't just return. Sometimes just swapping in a new hammer/trigger eliminates the marking, but this is hit or miss and I really don't know why it sometimes occurs.
Pre-war and early post-war S&W revolvers seem to have this problem much less; the tolerances were better, more attention was seemingly paid to "centering" the hammer and trigger re those frame and sideplate bosses.
stumper
US Veteran
Yes the shims under the hammer will work. Did that to a couple of mine in the past too.
happy jackson
US Veteran
hammer rub
Another vote for shims.Brownells sell hammer and trigger shims by Powers in packs of ten.I have used them on several of my Smiths with hammer and trigger rubs.They install on the side of the hammer or trigger that the rub is on.That rub looks pretty heavy.You can try one shim and see if that solves the problem.If not you can stack another on top and that should cure it.On several of my guns i have had to use two shims to get rid of the rub.
Another vote for shims.Brownells sell hammer and trigger shims by Powers in packs of ten.I have used them on several of my Smiths with hammer and trigger rubs.They install on the side of the hammer or trigger that the rub is on.That rub looks pretty heavy.You can try one shim and see if that solves the problem.If not you can stack another on top and that should cure it.On several of my guns i have had to use two shims to get rid of the rub.
jepp2
Member
Any time I have had the start of hammer rub, when I popped the side plate off there was an issue that needed attended to. It could also be indication of the hammer stud not being straight.
Just wanted you to be aware that it might be something other than a washer will fix.
Just wanted you to be aware that it might be something other than a washer will fix.
Bugs Bunny
Member
hole in the hammer may not be true as well or perhaps a finger on the mainspring may not be applying even pressure.
Don't know if any of the pistols I own would take a shim, even a thin one.
informative post thanks
500 Magnum Nut
Member
Before you buy anything, remove the internals and rub a stone on the inside of the frame. Many times there are burrs rubbing on the side of the hammer causing those marks.
smitret
Member
hammer rub
+1
Very fine stone on inside edges of hammer slot.
Could also smooth trigger stroke as a plus.
Good Luck
+1
Very fine stone on inside edges of hammer slot.
Could also smooth trigger stroke as a plus.
Good Luck
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