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That may help, depending on how far the degradation has progressed, but, if it's already gone too deep it may not get better immediately. But, if not, luckily the UM grips are pretty cheap to replace.

To each their own. But, the goal isn't to kill, it is to incapacitate and stop your attacker from doing you and your family harm. Many that break into an occupied home are desperate and likely under the influence of drugs. Small caliber guns such as .22LR, while may prove fatal, often take a...

Or more commonly, buggered screw heads from using the screwdriver from the kitchen drawer.

Have any Pics?

Yeah, I figure a carry gun is going to look like **** after a while for me too. Especially an airweight, with their poor finishes. If it gets to the point that it bothers me I'll just have it refinished in Cerakote, or Black T, or something similar.

I'm really curious about this one. It does appear from one picture that the cylinder pins are missing, but it could just be the lighting. Even still though, while I could see that mimicking a timing issue, it shouldn't affect whether or not the stop engages two stop notches when hand rotating...

Really? I wish I could find a nice pre-MIM, pre-lock 4" 686 for less than 4 bills! If I could I'd probably have several. Those grips do look jacked up though. If I were looking to buy it I'd have to deduct the price of a new set of grips since these are obviously not the right model grips...

Because they replaced the frame, will have a new SN, and therefore will need to be transferred through an FFL.

Yep, the little metal piece laying on the cushion is a Hogue stirrup and should be used with that grip. It appears as though that grip is secured with one grip screw that is inserted through one side. There should then be a threaded ferrule of the other side that the screw threads into. But...

Synthetics do degrade due to normal environmental things like ozone (tires dry rotting for example). But the gooeyness that you describe is almost assuredly a reaction to some chemical agent (cleaners, oils, etc.) that has been trapped under the grips. I have some old UM's grips that I've had...

All very good points, and I wholeheartedly agree with most of it! But, my Mossberg has an 8 round capacity, and while that isn't exactly high, and anything can happen, statistically I have a very low probability of needing more than that in any real world home defense encounter I can imagine...

Nice to get something new and be happy with it, ain't it? :-)

For stictly home defense I'd have to say shotgun too. A handgun's only real advantage is portability, as in CCW. But, when push comes to shove, a decent long gun trumps it every time when it comes to stopping power and the ability to make good hits. To paraphrase Clint Smith, my handgun is...

Well, the 340 has a scandium alloy frame and is a slight amount lighter than the standard alloy frames like the 642. It is also chambered for .357, but if you're like most, you won't shoot .357's in it anyway. The real reason not to use .357 in it is that recoil of a .357 in a gun this small...

If you're looking to turn the .45 into a magnum, I'd stick with Rugers. I'm sure the Smith's are fine with "reasonable" loads, but if you like pushing the limits I think the Rugers will stand up the abuse better, as well as possible be safer.

Is it lead, or a combination of bullet lube and powder fouling? Maybe try some different ammo?? I only have one rimfire revolver, a Ruger SP101. It does the same thing, with the cartridges taking a little nudge to fully seat, after firing it a bit. Maybe just run a bronze/brass chamber brush...

YEP! That sounds familiar all right!

Thanks for the clarification. My 625-3 is marked on the right side of the barrel, "45 CAL MODEL OF 1989". I have no idea how the 45 Colt is marked to distinguish it. When I found it in the dealer's used case and asked to see it, the first thing I did was pop the cylinder open to look at the...

My 625-3 must be an exception, 'cause it's a .45ACP. Nice collection of .45 revolvers!

I agree, and this is why I retain the factory spring in all of my SD revolvers. Even if testing shows that the gun is still getting reliable ignition with reduced power mainsprings, buy reducing the energy that the hammer has to impart on the FP, you have obviously moved closer to the point...