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I started out thinking I was gonna do 4-6 coats, but that 24hr wait between coats is a killer.. I couldnt believe how easy it is to do, and like ya say, if you dont have checkering to mess with it could be right down fun.. I have a few old sets of magnas I might experiment with.. But they do...

Somebody lock him up.. You STOLE that gun!! Nice gun and great price!!

Ok, I about got em done!! I got the Birchwood Casey "Stock Refinishing Kit" that comes with stain, oil, and the stock sheen/conditioner.. The pics are, from left to right, the grips in original condition, then after I had stripped the old finish w/acetone and sanded them lightly, I put a little...

I wouldnt even feel comfortable putting too many 110 gr. .357mag's through my Model 66, so I'd definitely be wary of doin it to a J frame.. I'd step it up to at least 125gr bullets if it were me.. Just sayin..

Thanks for the added info nisamo!! I'll post a new "after" pic once Im finished.. On the oil app.. Is it necessary to let them dry a full 24 hrs., between each coat?? Thanks again!!

What happened to the side plate? Was it going to be a "cutaway" display model or something?

Ok, anyone know the proper way to strip em' and where to get the Tung Oil?? I tried cleaning them with paint thinner, then applying some bowling alley paste wax.. They look sweet when wet, but as soon as they dry their back to being dull.. Seems they just wont hold or take any wax? I tried 3...

Too bad Ahrends doesnt make those conversion or target style for the J Frames..

Great, thanks!!

One last question.. I've got Acetone, Denatured Alcohol, Paint Thinner, and Super Strip.. Any of that good for "cleaning" the grips, or do I need to get Mineral Spirits for that job??

Yea, there not that bad, but the picture gives them more shine than they really have.. Their just kinda dull.. I think I will give the wax a try first though, just to see how it does.. Thanks again, all, for the help!

Thanks for all the replies!! Since it seems like a majority opinion that I should stip the rest of the original finish off first, how do ya go about doing it properly?? And where do ya find these "Birchwood Casey" products?? Thanks once again!!

Hey guys, any ideas on what to use, or how I could get these grips to shine up a little? The original "Herretts" finish is about gone and they're almost dull now. I used some "Pledge w/Orange oil" on them and they looked real good until I wiped em off and they dried. Thanks for any tips!!

Love that polished stainless steel!! This Model 66-4 was a career LEO gun..IE: rough!! I started with 400 grit wet/dry, up through 800, 1000, 1500, and ended with mothers mag polish on old cutup shop rags.. (Still need to work on the cylinder some, got in a hurry toward the end, dont ya know..)

Nice chunk of stainless steel ya got there!!

Quick Tip: You guys running out and getting screw driver kits to take apart the revolver, remember getting the right size drivers is only half the task.. I've not seen a stock set yet that had the bits properly fitted for removing the sideplate screws.. They "all" need to be gound/filed and...

Not a thing wrong with a -4.. Got all the good parts the older ones have, sans the newer cylinder release.. No MIM parts, pin on the hammer, what else can ya ask for?

Very nice!! I usually dont like bodyguards, but I think the T-Grip must even it out or something, cause yours looks sweet!! Nice job!!

Cant believe Im the first to ask.. But where abouts can you still "order" these no-lock model 442's?? I thought they were all gone, and just leftover frames??

It sold for alot more than we think it's worth, but the buyer has over 100 transactions on Gunbroker, so they probably knew what they were doing? As soon as I saw the final price I said to myself "I bet the winner is a new bidder", but I was dead wrong.. Its probably either sentimental value or...