Grip Shine??

If you really want a shiny finish then strip them down to bare wood and spray several coats of polyurethane varnish on then. Get the high gloss, not the satin.
 
Yep, from that picture I can see the finish deterioration and I'd strip them. Acetone is what I use. Find the smallest container that will hold them, I've used the plastic tubs that lunchmeat comes in and use the lid to keep unwanted things out. I generally work outside for this stage. Soak your grips for a couple hours then scrub them with an old toothbrush. It may take a couple of soaks but you don't have a heavy poly finish to cut thru so I doubt stripping will be a big job. I'd touch up around the checkering with some 220 sandpaper lightly to smooth imperfections.

Pure Tung oil is kinda hard to find. Tung oil finish is available but I've been happy with an old homebrew oil finish. 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part mineral spirits and 1 part spar or marine varnish. Brownells sells a small container of LinSpeed oil finish that is about the same as my homebrew. My mix will work without the varnish, just won't be as glossy.

The way I do it is start with clean dry stripped grips and I usually just use my finger and rub it in. Maybe I'll use a clean lintfree cloth the first application but spend some time and rub it in good and as it soaks in, continue to add more. The checkering is tricky. You don't want to build up too much in there so use a toothbrush and get it saturated but don't leave any globs.

Let them dry for a day then use 500 grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool to scuff the finish, wipe it down good with tack cloth and repeat the procedure. The reason for scuffing is so the next coat will get into the wood and not just lay on top of the oil. You'll just have to get a feel for how to handle the checkering. Maybe the first coat is all you'll want to put on it. About 3 coats will do for the smooth wood but more won't hurt.

After all is done I wax mine. I use Johnson's paste wax about 3 coats and then a couple coats of Renaissance. I think the Ren makes it pop a little more but it may be my imagination.

Good luck and don't burn the house down.
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Thanks for the added info nisamo!! I'll post a new "after" pic once Im finished..
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On the oil app.. Is it necessary to let them dry a full 24 hrs., between each coat??

Thanks again!!
 
Ok, I about got em done!! I got the Birchwood Casey "Stock Refinishing Kit" that comes with stain, oil, and the stock sheen/conditioner..
The pics are, from left to right, the grips in original condition, then after I had stripped the old finish w/acetone and sanded them lightly, I put a little of the stain on them (thinned with water) to give them a little darker look, and finally is the finished "dry" product after 3 coats of BC oil.. (Let dry 24 hours and ruffed up with 0000 steel wool between coats) The camera doesnt do them justice.. They do look glossy, but not gaudy-wet like the photo appears.. lol.. Now the only decision left is whether to use the Sheen & Conditioner or some paste wax I have on them, or just leave them as is?? Does anyone know if it reduces the glossy appearance, or enhances it?? Thanks again for all the info and help and for any info on the final steps..
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When the factory finish finally gets spotty on my Herrett's Jordan Trooper grips, I strip them and sand very lightly starting with 400 grit and going through 1200 grit. Then I apply about a dozen coats of Tru Oil lightly polishing with 0000 steel wood between coats. Not having checkering to deal with makes this process much easier.
 
Mickstic take a stiff brush and go over the checkering easy to give it a duller tone and it will stand out better, then they will look like the factory stocks do.
 
Originally posted by n4zov:
Then I apply about a dozen coats of Tru Oil lightly polishing with 0000 steel wood between coats.
I started out thinking I was gonna do 4-6 coats, but that 24hr wait between coats is a killer..
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I couldnt believe how easy it is to do, and like ya say, if you dont have checkering to mess with it could be right down fun..
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I have a few old sets of magnas I might experiment with.. But they do have checkering too, but it's really not that big a deal..

John, what kind of brush are you referring to? Like a brass wire, or just a stiff "tooth" brush?? As I said, the picture really isnt a good representation of their actual gloss.. I only put 1 coat on the checkered areas for that reason, and they dont look "gooey" like the photo.. Im still contemplating rubbin in some "sheen/conditioner" and see what that does.. But Im pretty happy with em' the way they are.. Looks sooooo much better than the dulled out Harrett's that I started with!!
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