Search results

Fine(170/325) first! I'll order five pounds of Medium(70/100), Medium-Fine(100/170), and Fine(170/325) each. Five pounds is the smallest quantity you can order. I suspect that is about 1/2 gallon volume each. I bet the shipping is going to be as much as the media. I have a bunch of stainless...

I have a S&W 645 that was holstered for a while, but since has been retired from that duty. I want to re-glass bead the slide and frame, but I want to be closest to the original patina as possible. I have the following choices of glass bead media. Which will bring me closest to the original...

I received from Brownell's a Wilson Combat slide stop and installed it yesterday. The Wilson Combat slide stop has a lot more of its tab sitting on the magazine follower the the S&W slide stop. It holds the slide open after the last shot when a magazine full of cartridges is manually cycled...

I have new to me SW1911PC that I have only run 100 rounds through and the slide doesn’t lock open after the last shot. With an empty magazine inserted, the magazine follower seems to get underneath the slide stop and the slide stop pops into place locking the slide open. However if I load 8...

Its not a DVD, but an old school VHS tape. Amazon.com still has them for sale. Its worth the money. I have watched it 3 or 4 times, some sections such as how the drawbar works 7 or 8 times.

I bought a tape called "Smith & Wesson Auto Pistols 1st, 2nd & 3rd Generation Armorer's Course" from Amazon.com for $20 in anticipation of a purchase that fell through. I thought enough of it to keep it. Not only will it give you good full disassembly instructions, I finally got a handle on how...

Ooops! I tried to identified it from some S&W schematics a buddy gave me as a Model 18. I now see the extra screw on the sideplate. Thanks, Brant

You jogged a memory from the early sixties. I when downstairs and found the original grips in my Dad's camera box. Wow!

This piece has a great deal of sentimental value. It was gived to my father who has passed by his life long best friend. It is 22 caliber K frame. The number on the barrel and cylinder is K 135563. On the frame there is: D 69228 3 I would just like to know what Model it is? And from period it...

This piece has a great deal of sentimental value. It was gived to my father who has passed by his life long best friend. It is 22 caliber K frame. The number on the barrel and cylinder is K 135563. On the frame there is: D 69228 3 I would just like to know what Model it is? And from period it...

I use saf-t-trainers from www.precisiongun.com. They are good for about a half dozen strikes.

This is a new to me 637-2. Where the front of the cylinder contacts the frame it is sort of chewed up, and where the cylinder meets the back of the frame there is are marks from the rim of the cartridge. I'm not concerned about how they devalue the revolver since it was purchased for a song...

This is a new to me 637-2. Where the front of the cylinder contacts the frame it is sort of chewed up, and where the cylinder meets the back of the frame there is are marks from the rim of the cartridge. I'm not concerned about how they devalue the revolver since it was purchased for a song...

My SW 1911PC came with a shock buffer on the recoil guide rod. I don't know that it is necessary, but it is there.

I bought a do-all bullet trap off Amazon.com. It was the best price I could find(less than $60 shipped). I bet it is only 1/8 inch steel. It says not to use HV .22 and only use SV .22. But I can't say that HV's have damaged it. I use it sparingly for HV .22 but my son uses it extensively for .22...

Looks good, and anything you can do yourself is better than sending it out. I have a rifle I sent out to get blued, and got a feeling its going to be summer before I get it back.

The previous owner mention a factory coating on the sides,"like a powder coating". Perhaps this is what was buffed off. But I would have to agree with you that sides do look polished from the factory, perhaps then coated.

I like that thought! The thickness of the grips and frame measure about 1.3". My Ruger Mark II .22/45 measures about 1.1". The Ruger is the only gun that has ever really fit my hand. Next time I take the grips off. I'll measure the thickness of the actual grip, and start looking from there.

I just repeated the words of the previous owner. I really don't know, but this picture was in the group that he sent me. What to you think?