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What did I miss? What is the unusual aspect of that M14?

My no-dash 586 received the repair just two months ago. Smith paid for the express shipping both ways.

Deryck delivers exactly what he says he will. Better than excellent value and service.

98% M19-3's with no accoutrements go for $600 to $750 in California.

Me too...ditto to everything Fireman said.

I believe the 14-3 only came with a 6" mostly and an occasional 8-3/8".

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing. Virtually all auto parts stores carry it. Permatex makes a good one.

I've heard that the 952-2 was designed for a specific velocity round. Does anyone have any information on this?

I see the why as a direct result of the influx of third world people who bring their slovenly cultures with them. They have no interest in assimilating, and therefore acquiring what are our social norms. I believe that Scotsbrae has the answer. See his signature line….

I'll take the remaining 1500 if still available.

Unless you are in the buying and selling business, the cost does not matter in MHO. There is a visceral attraction to Smith revolvers that is beyond price. Uh, okay, yeh...I'm on my way to see my analyst now.

Any idea of the approximate date of manufacture?

Regarding stamping an M on the crane (or anywhere else), I sent my no dash 586 to S&W for this repair and it was not stamped.

I dumped Norton, McAfee is a memory hog. I deleted all other anti-spam and anti-adware software and installed ESET's NOD32 several months ago. So far so good. The upside is that it seems to perform quite well and doesn't require an excess of memory.

The prices in California are $100-$300 higher for the same gun elsewhere. If the piece is off-list (California's "safe" list), and virtually all pre-lock revolvers are, with rare exceptions (e.g. single action), it can't even be shipped into California . All handgun sales must go through an...

I got my first Smith in a straight across trade for a Walther 380 in the late 70's. It's a 17-3 and was reportedly acquired from Keenan Wynn (remember him?) in a neighborhood bar horse trade. The first purchased was a 29-2 with presentation case, etc., that I bought new for something less...

I'll take the SB S&W L frame grips.

Much thanks to all for the various methods proposed. I think I will try a combination of the suggestions offered. If things go south, I will let S&W have a go at it.

Thanks Magnum 12PM. That looks some better than mine. What technique did you use to accomplish it? I've considered slightly peening the end of the plate but I would like to hear someone else say they have done that with success before I give it a go.

A previous owner damaged the top of my M66's side plate while playing at being a gunsmith. It isn't terrible, but I hate looking at it. Anyone know if this can be corrected without refinishing the piece?