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Thank you, appreciate it!

I'd appreciate it if someone with S&W catalog would check the mfg date of a model 60 I'm looking at. The S/N is BAB6304.

Those of you that have K22 revolvers know that they're notorious for having very tight chambers, to the point that extraction is very difficult. The fix is to finish ream the cylinders as shown in the thread below...

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for some PC's

Thanks, I suspected that. I'll probably hang on to them since they're in really nice shape.

I recently bought a set of used "K-frame" grips for my 1979 Model 10. They don't seem to fit very well. The wood is "hanging over" the metal at the top and on the forward side of the grip. Is it possible that these are actually N-frame grips?

Thanks Gents, appreciate the help.

I have a couple of K frames that I'd like to find out when they were made (shipped) The first is a 10-7 5D01XXX Second is a 17-2 K636XXX Thanks in advance!

My 5906 also shoots low with 115gr. I need to try 124 & 147.

Only if the DC Government files for cert in SCOTUS. If they don't, the ruling will stand and DC will become Shall Issue.

En Banc DENIED!!! None of the Judges even requested a vote. Link to Alan Gura on Twitter: Twitter

Just to follow-up. I received the parts yesterday. Changed out the ejector rod and everything works perfectly.

Thanks armorer. I've stripped and cleaned the cylinder, so I'm sure there isn't any gunk fouling the operation. I thought that the extractor (star) was the only fitted part. If the ejector rod and/or center pin need fitting, I'll be visiting a gunsmith.

With the cylinder swung out, I pressed the center pin (to simulate actuating the thumb piece). At full depression, the center pin was recessed roughly 1/32 (maybe slightly more) below the end of the ejector rod. I'm thinking that's WAY too much to shorten the rod. I ordered a new center pin...

I believe shortening the extractor rod will solve the issue. Does shortening it involve a lathe? I suppose I can buy a replacement rod to experiment with.

Thanks for the recommendation to thoroughly strip and clean the cylinder. I think it may have led me to the issue. I took the cylinder completely apart and cleaned it and the problem actually got a little worse. It's starting to look like the extractor rod isn't pushing the locking bolt...

Here's a picture of the breech face. I don't see any evidence of the extractor rubbing. I also looked at the gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone. The cylinder isn't making contact at all and the gap appears consistent on all 6.

I checked the ejector rod and it has no visible runout. I removed and inspected the cylinder and it seems ok. It feels as though the binding is in the ejector "star" area, but I'm not 100%.

I just picked up a used 10-7 4" in nickel. I've noticed that the cylinder won't open when one particular chamber is in the firing position. The cylinder opens normally when any of the other 5 are in the firing position. I've checked the ejector rod and made sure it's tight. Lock-up is tight...

There's a piece missing from most of the responses. I haven't heard anyone say "that won't come out". If it won't come out, then I agree: "it's a working gun, just live with it". But I too, like to keep things in good condition, at least as good as they can be. So, if there's an opportunity...