How to remove a scratch...

[mnarcher]

Dude, are you serious? Put your pistol away and find something meaningful to worry about. In a few days you'll forget all about it. It's honest wear. Sonora

Yes. Guys like myself are serious. I like stuff that looks new and taken care of. Not like it's been beat up. It's something I spend a lot of money on, I want it looking like the day I bought it. I paid for something new and perfect and that's what I want it to look like. Otherwise, I will obsess about it in my mind all day, even while it's holstered and I am going about my daily business. I would be in the middle of grocery shopping and all I would be thinking about would be the scratch on the slide or the wear on the frame from a holster. (Clearly, I do not use kydex holsters, because they create shiny spots on the trigger guard where the retention area is.) Yes, it is OCD. But I like nice things. Equal in my mind is how nice it looks. Scratches and wear does not look nice.


Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[dben002]

Well the fatal truth of the matter is that unless you buy a "perfect finished" weapon and then gun oil it and then gently place it in a holster and then vacuum seal it and put it away and never use it it is going to eventually show wear......

Every holster will cause wear scuffs over time...

Your goal for a lifetime usable perfect firearm is unobtainable and you are doomed to a lifetime of misery and disappointment and years of sleepless nights which will lead to health problems, possible loss of work time, income loss and psychological problems.....

Is it really worth all that? Sell all your guns ASAP and start collecting firearm belt buckles but DO NOT WEAR THEM..

Hope this helps..best of luck..m.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

This finish hardens the surface of the metal, just like the Glock Melonite and other black hardening processes.

Good place to make a slight diversion:

As noted, the Glock Tenifer (or Tennifer) is a surface hardening treatment that is done to the slide before the "colored" finish is added. (See the indented section, below.) The colored finish on a Glock is (or maybe WAS) a form of manganese phosphate (Parkerizing) applied AFTER the tenifer treatment is done.

(When Glock moved production of guns sold in the U.S. market to the U.S., they were forced to change the Tenifer formula. As it is done done in Europe it can be an environmental hazard, poisonous for those doing the work.

The complaints you hear about crappy Glock finishes with the new guns (made in the USA) has NOTHING to do with the changed Tenifer formula, but with changes to the colored finish applied afterwards. Glock has apparently changed THAT a number of times.

S&W apparently uses a surface hardening treatment very similar to Melonite (which is a proprietary name S&W can't use.) The colored part of the finish is apparently a layer of something applied AFTER the slide is hardened.

From Wikipedia:

Ferritic nitrocarburizing, also known by the proprietary names Tennifer/Tenifer and Melonite, is a range of proprietary case hardening processes that diffuse nitrogen and carbon into ferrous metals at sub-critical temperatures during a salt bath​

Someone recommended using Flitz... I'd avoid that, as that could make the "scratched" area shiney. (That said, there is a chemical component to Flitz that that COULD do some cleaning.)

Instead, I'd try very lightly rubbing the "scratch" with one of those 3M "Scotch Brite" pads (or one of the generic versions available in most grocery stores -- very cheap). That would likely take off anything deposited there (residue) and NOT make the result shinier that it was before it was rubbed.

If that doesn't work, S&W may have some touch-up paint, somewhere, too. If that's thinned a bit and applied delicately with a model paint brush you'd probably never be able to tell it was repaired.

You could probably get some model paints and mix up some yourself to fix the problem area, if scuffing or buffing doesn't fix it. I've done this with a couple of my guns that got "ouchies" and if it's thinned down slightly (so that it doesn't get thick, its hard to tell it was "repaired."

Start with a matte black and matte white paint and mix up some to try to get a match or the right shade of black or gray. Mix up tiny quantities.

 

[dben002]

Good place to make a slight diversion:

As noted, the Glock Tenifer (or Tennifer) is a surface hardening treatment that is done to the slide before the "colored" finish is added. (See the indented section, below.) The colored finish on a Glock is (or maybe WAS) a form of manganese phosphate (Parkerizing) applied AFTER the tenifer treatment is done.

(When Glock moved production of guns sold in the U.S. market to the U.S., they were forced to change the Tenifer formula. As it is done done in Europe it can be an environmental hazard, poisonous for those doing the work.

The complaints you hear about crappy Glock finishes with the new guns (made in the USA) has NOTHING to do with the changed Tenifer formula, but with changes to the colored finish applied afterwards. Glock has apparently changed THAT a number of times.

S&W apparently uses a surface hardening treatment very similar to Melonite (which is a proprietary name S&W can't use.) The colored part of the finish is apparently a layer of something applied AFTER the slide is hardened.

From Wikipedia:

Ferritic nitrocarburizing, also known by the proprietary names Tennifer/Tenifer and Melonite, is a range of proprietary case hardening processes that diffuse nitrogen and carbon into ferrous metals at sub-critical temperatures during a salt bath​

Someone recommended using Flitz... I'd avoid that, as that could make the "scratched" area shiney. (That said, there is a chemical component to Flitz that that COULD do some cleaning.)

Instead, I'd try very lightly rubbing the "scratch" with one of those 3M "Scotch Brite" pads (or one of the generic versions available in most grocery stores -- very cheap). That would likely take off anything deposited there (residue) and NOT make the result shinier that it was before it was rubbed.

If that doesn't work, S&W may have some touch-up paint, somewhere, too. If that's thinned a bit and applied delicately with a model paint brush you'd probably never be able to tell it was repaired.

You could probably get some model paints and mix up some yourself to fix the problem area, if scuffing or buffing doesn't fix it. I've done this with a couple of my guns that got "ouchies" and if it's thinned down slightly (so that it doesn't get thick, its hard to tell it was "repaired."

Start with a matte black and matte white paint and mix up some to try to get a match or the right shade of black or gray. Mix up tiny quantities.

Great information....thanks for the education....

 

[Joe F]

There's a piece missing from most of the responses. I haven't heard anyone say "that won't come out". If it won't come out, then I agree: "it's a working gun, just live with it". But I too, like to keep things in good condition, at least as good as they can be. So, if there's an opportunity to fix it, I say give it a try. I think Walt's post above is on the right track. LIGHTLY rub with a ScotchBrite (maybe with some Hoppes or gun cleaner). Be very careful about shining up the "damage".