Best gun to build PPC Revolver

8-Shot

8-Shot

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I am wondering if their are advantages on building a PPC Revolver on certain models. I know I want a stainless steel revolver. I see most are made out of model 64's. Are there advantages with using a 64/67. I have a model 65 and a model 66. All are older firing pin on the hammer style. Is there advantages of using a 38 to a 357. I know I will be shooting 38 spcl wadcutters. Any advice or comments are welcome.
 
I have also seen some built using L frame guns. I know n frame would not be good since no jet loaders or comp 3 loaders are available.
 
I'd go the 64 route as opposed to the 66. Cheaper to get a starter (lots of trade ins available) plus I wouldnt want the extra jump of the bullet in the 357 cyl.
 
BOB JONES ( A GREAT PPC GUN BUILDER) TOLD ME THAT YOU GET A GUN THAT SHOOTS 10% SMALLER GROUPS ( AT50YDS) BY USING A .38SPL VS A .357. JP.
 
I agree with PPCSHOOTER,

The less travel distance between the time the bullet leaves the brass until it engages the rifling is the way to go.

Over my 30+ years of handgunning (although I was never involved in PPC) I noticed one thing, a bull barrel, Bo-mar sight rib and Model 10 frame ruled the roost.

Murphy2000
 
Bob Jones also told me to use caution with worn out model 64s or police trade in guns. He said to stay away from guns with the center pin hole that are egg shaped. I could not find a suitable model....but had a model 14 that he is installing a hbar right now.
 
Thanks for these tips guys. I have a model 686 and model 66 I was considering. I will keep these for my service guns. I did not know about the egg shape center pin hole. I will keep an eye out when searching for guns.
 
A "real" ppc gun is something I've wanted but haven't had the spare money to buy or have built. IF I was having one built it woud be on a 64-6. No lock, FMFP frame.
 
All the "real" PPC guns I've seen were built on older Model 10's. The newer built ones have all the ball bearing stuff in the actions and have DA pulls that are like glass.

I was offered one for sale at a LGS but it looked to have had about a million rounds through it.


I saw one built on a Ruger GP100 but can't imagine that would be superior to a S&W as far as the DA pull and the bullet jump in the .357 cylinder.

I have heard of .38 Special GP100's being used though.
 
I've seen PPC guns made up on model 10's, 14's and even a colt trooper.
I think that Clark Custom guns does suggest a model 10 (here in Louisiana) had once given thought about one of these but the $$$ was never there. I have a buddy that was pretty good silhouette shooter and had a bull barreled S&W 44 mag. Was kinda weird when I first saw it, but he shoots better than I ever will. Happy New Year all. Frank
 
I picked up a 64-1 today that locks up tight, but has a rough feeling trigger. Someone made it into a round butt and refinished it with a ceramic coat or something similar. I'm going to get ahold of Joe at MOJO Guns next week to start on the build. Thanks for the help.
 
Dan Wessons are fine guns for silhouette shooting..the interchangeable barrels are great. Stay away from the guns built in Palmer Mass., quality was hit or miss.
 
Unless it is for your own satisfaction why build one , get into the PPC world and ask around there always seem to be match guns for sale and often at good prices.
PPC is not a growing sport there are some bargains out there.

NB
 
I have been shooting for about 4 years and I am on my 2nd revolver I have bought used. The 1st one was a very old Royce Weddle I and he 2nd was made by a guy is Oregon. I shot good scores, but both had to go to gunsmiths after matches due to problems. I also had problems finding gunsmiths that wanted to work on them. I'm just ready to get something that is not wore out and in good shape.
 
K is King

The lighter cylinders on a K-frame make for a smoother action than a larger L or N. Ideally you find a good deal on a gun wth no collector value but a tight action. Make sure it locks up on each cylinder BEFORE the hammer is all the way back (this is known as a timing check) and make sure the cylinder opens and closes easily but soundly. Endshake is another issue. Of course, you want a steel gun and not an airweight. Once you have a good frame that is mechanically sound, your 'smith can intall the big bbl, rib, and do the action work.

The ultimate PPC base gun was never made: a Centennial K-frame. Such a gun would have been the ultimate combat 357 as well with about a 3" bbl!
 
K is King

The lighter cylinders on a K-frame make for a smoother action than a larger L or N. Ideally you find a good deal on a gun wth no collector value but a tight action. Make sure it locks up on each cylinder BEFORE the hammer is all the way back (this is known as a timing check) and make sure the cylinder opens and closes easily but soundly. Endshake is another issue. Of course, you want a steel gun and not an airweight. Once you have a good frame that is mechanically sound, your 'smith can intall the big bbl, rib, and do the action work.

The ultimate PPC base gun was never made: a Centennial K-frame. Such a gun would have been the ultimate combat 357 as well with about a 3" bbl!
 
I have a PPC built by MoJo in the 80's for my father, as well as several guns he has done for me, since he has been back. YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED. He takes great care and pride in his work.
 
FWIW, virtually all of the Grand Masters and Masters in my club shoot tricked out 686's. I am from the land of Ron Power of Power Custom which was one of the top PPC gun builders in the US back in the heyday of PPC. I have seen a couple of his k frames... but most are L frames. They appear to shoot pretty good when those big dogs are shooting.
 
Over here in the northeast its usually the K-frame in either stainless or blued. I've only seen one built on an L-frame. The only problem I ever noticed with that one was the operator getting his K-frame speed loaders mixed in with the L-frame ones.

Never fun shooting next to him when he discovered the mix up. Usually on the 15 yard line ;-)
 
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