Any M&P FPC Shooters Out There??

J

justicetyme

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So after reading a lot of articles and watching a lot of videos I thought one of the new M&P FPCs might be fun so I bought one this afternoon.
It was too late after getting home to go down to the range so I thought I'd run a few rounds through it off the front porch.
I loaded up ten rounds in a mag and chambered a round.
CLICK!!
Well maybe it was a bad round so I ejected that one and chambered another one.
CLICK!!
I ejected that round and looked at them both.
There was no mark on the primer at all.
I tried a few more rounds and finally got one to fire.
I went to another box of factory ammo and chambered a round.
CLICK!!
After ejecting and chambering a number of rounds I finally got one to fire.
ALL of the "CLICK" rounds had absolutely no mark on the primer.
I took it into the gun room and as I was looking at it I heard something hit the floor.

tJeULm.jpg


Well at least now I know why the firing pin wasn't hitting the primer.

I haven't bought a new S&W handgun since the M&P40 PC Ported in 2015.
I'd seen forum members decrying current quality control now I can see why.

Cheers
James
 
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I just picked one up today, haven't had a chance to shoot it yet.
So was the firing pin not installed or was there a crosspin or something missing? It doesn't look broken.
Maybe I'll tear mine down before going to the range just to get a look inside, I really don't know how it all works in there without laying eyes on it.
 
That's disappointing to hear. This gun is still on my list but I have been waiting to see how reliable FPCs purchased through normal channels are before I buy one. Guns sent directly to YouTube and internet reviewers probably get the sort of final QA inspection every gun S&W makes should get.

Parts falling out is obviously a bad sign but can be fixed. I am more worried about intermittent reliability issues that are common with blowback operated 9mm carbines like the Ruger PC I had.

"run a few rounds through it off the front porch." You are making me jealous.
 
justicetyme said:
I haven't taken the time to field strip it and see how the firing pin is retained.
For the firing pin to fall out obviously something is missing or broken.
Click to expand...

I was curious and did a quick impromptu firing pin test. The firing pin popped out strong enough to dent the end of a sharpie and send it about 4" straight up off the bolt.face, so at least my firing pin is there and working for now.
 
I took a few minutes to field strip the M&P FPC so I could get an understanding as to how its bolt was made and how the firing pin was (supposed to be) retained in it.
It is simple straightforward one piece bolt with a .080” split pin going vertically through the bolt and passing through a notch in the firing pin.
The roll pin is used to retain the firing pin in the bolt’s firing pin channel while allowing the firing pin to move forward and strike the primer when the rear of the firing pin is hit with the hammer.
I would assume that there was supposed to be a spring on the front portion of the firing pin to return it to the rear position after the action cycles and the hammer is no longer against the rear of the firing pin.
I say “assume” because there was no spring in the bolt or around the floor where the firing pin fell out.
If someone who has an FPC took a look at their bolt we’d all know for sure if it’s supposed to have a firing pin spring or not.

As to how or why this happened since I wasn’t present at assembly I can only speculate on the proper assembly procedure but I suspect it is something like:
1.) Put firing pin spring on firing pin and insert it into the firing pin channel in the bolt.
2.) Align the firing pin notch to be in line with the split roll pin.
3.) Push the firing pin forward and CAREFULLY push / drive pin through the bolt to retain the firing pin (& spring??) within the firing pin channel in the bolt.

However the procedure was supposed to be by examining my bolt and firing pin I’m confident that is not how it was assembled.
The split pin is bent so much that the firing pin (big end) can be pushed into the bolt’s firing pin channel with your fingers.
I strongly suspect that the firing pin was driven into the firing pin channel after the roll pin was inserted through the bolt and it was so tight against the roll pin that the hammer didn’t have enough energy to drive it forward to the firing pin resulting in the loud “CLICK” that occurred.
I’m actually surprised I got it to fire the two times I did.
When I had it back in the gun room with the bolt in slide lock and moving the gun around to look in it and moving the bolt via the charging handle the uncaptured firing pin just fell out.

xRHWuc.jpg


gCSg2v.jpg


e4Q0ks.jpg


This design is so simple that it seems a person would almost have to intentionally mess it up.

To me it seems the hammer strike area of the rear bolt face seems more buggered than I would think a dozen or so strikes would leave it.
Cheers
James
 
I wonder if someone bent the rollpin while installing it, like maybe s&w uses a press to put it in and something wasn't aligned correctly.
I would take mine apart to check but my wife and I are kid sitting tonight. If it were my kids, they could help me do it, but these are not mine.
 
justicetyme said:
I took a few minutes to field strip the M&P FPC so I could get an understanding as to how its bolt was made and how the firing pin was (supposed to be) retained in it.
It is simple straightforward one piece bolt with a .080” split pin going vertically through the bolt and passing through a notch in the firing pin.
The roll pin is used to retain the firing pin in the bolt’s firing pin channel while allowing the firing pin to move forward and strike the primer when the rear of the firing pin is hit with the hammer.
I would assume that there was supposed to be a spring on the front portion of the firing pin to return it to the rear position after the action cycles and the hammer is no longer against the rear of the firing pin.
I say “assume” because there was no spring in the bolt or around the floor where the firing pin fell out.
If someone who has an FPC took a look at their bolt we’d all know for sure if it’s supposed to have a firing pin spring or not.

As to how or why this happened since I wasn’t present at assembly I can only speculate on the proper assembly procedure but I suspect it is something like:
1.) Put firing pin spring on firing pin and insert it into the firing pin channel in the bolt.
2.) Align the firing pin notch to be in line with the split roll pin.
3.) Push the firing pin forward and CAREFULLY push / drive pin through the bolt to retain the firing pin (& spring??) within the firing pin channel in the bolt.

However the procedure was supposed to be by examining my bolt and firing pin I’m confident that is not how it was assembled.
The split pin is bent so much that the firing pin (big end) can be pushed into the bolt’s firing pin channel with your fingers.
I strongly suspect that the firing pin was driven into the firing pin channel after the roll pin was inserted through the bolt and it was so tight against the roll pin that the hammer didn’t have enough energy to drive it forward to the firing pin resulting in the loud “CLICK” that occurred.
I’m actually surprised I got it to fire the two times I did.
When I had it back in the gun room with the bolt in slide lock and moving the gun around to look in it and moving the bolt via the charging handle the uncaptured firing pin just fell out.

xRHWuc.jpg


gCSg2v.jpg


e4Q0ks.jpg


This design is so simple that it seems a person would almost have to intentionally mess it up.

To me it seems the hammer strike area of the rear bolt face seems more buggered than I would think a dozen or so strikes would leave it.
Cheers
James
Click to expand...
Ok, I took an opportunity and tore into the gun a little. My bolt face looks like new, no hammer marks at all, completely flat. It is, unfired though. If the firing pin was just lose, floating in there, I can see how the bolt face may take some abuse from the hammer. The firing pin is definitely spring loaded. I didn't drive the rolling pin out so I don't know what my firing pin itself looks like but I do know the firing pin has a spring that counters the hammer force. Something else that may be relevant, the firing pin roll pin is flush to the edge of the smaller hole in the bottom of the bolt, can't really even see it in the larger hole on top.
also something weird, is your bolt black? Mine is stainless or chrome maybe, but definitely not black
Not much you didn't already know but I hope it helps some.

Oh yeah, I wanted to see what the face of the hammer looks like so I let the hammer fall softly with the bolt out of the gun (these things have got the cheesiest little hammers), anyway, if you make the mistake and do this, unless you have ET fingers, you won't be able to reset the hammer by hand. I discovered a trick that I'll share if you need it. It tough to explain so I won't go into it now.
 
Last edited:
Yes Virginia There Is A Firing Pin Spring!

As I mentioned in a previous post when I was looking at the FPC in the gun room yesterday evening trying to see why it was not functioning I heard something hit the hardwood floor.
I searched around and found the firing pin but there was nothing else.

Today when I was going to field strip it I couldn't get the bolt to go forward, it was stopped / wedged / stuck about a third of the way forward.

u3QWlx.jpg


I kept retracting the charge handle and releasing it and it finally went home and I proceeded to field strip the gun.
When I got it apart I looked but didn't see anything that could have been holding the bolt.

I was almost positive that it should have had a firing pin spring so I thought I'd take a big stick magnet and look around the porch for the spring.
However a diligent search produced no spring.

Back in the gun room laying on the floor was the elusive firing pin spring, deformed from being wedged between the bolt carrier and the tube.

I82NJO.jpg


Apparently the firing pin spring was still in the bolt after the firing pin fell out yesterday evening and my fumbling around in preparation to field strip the FPC this morning dislodged it and let it fall out of the bolt enough to be temporarily wedged (and permanently bent).
It eventually fell out through the mag well and ended up on floor.

Hopefully a new firing pin spring and roll pin (correctly installed) will get it functioning as it should have been when it left the factory.

Furthering my opinion that the roll pin got bent when Fred Flintstone assembled the bolt incorrectly is the fact that the firing pin spring can easily be pushed into the firing pin channel (past the yet installed roll pin) until the bent part enters the channel.

Cheers
James
 
Hostler,
Thanks for the input.
My bolt and bolt carrier are flash (hard) chromed just like yours.
The pictures just aren't true color because of the lighting.
If everything is in spec the hammer hits the rear bolt face very lightly or not at all as the firing pin's forward momentum is stopped when it's nose goes into the primer.
The firing pin spring retracts the firing pin back into the channel so there's no slam fires.
I suspect that "everything" is NOT in spec on my FPC.
But hey, I was the first kid on the block to have one.
Cheers
James
 
Through the years I've had pretty good success getting them to send me the parts I need to fix their buggers.
It's a whole lot cheaper to send me a new bolt assembly than to pay to ship the rifle both ways and have someone fix shoddy workmanship.
I'll give them a call Monday and see what transpires.
It's a totally unnecessary repair but in the big picture it very insignificant.
Cheers
James
 
Just comparing the pics of yours to what I see in mine, I think what happened is they pushed the roll pins in from the top hole and didn't push it in all the way until it's flush with the bottom hole. Then maybe the roll pin didn't fully pass completely through the groove in the firing pin.
 
Maddmax said:
Got mine a couple days ago. Did a full fieldstrip, cleaned, lubed and it shoots just fine. Zero issues, everything fits perfect. In fact, it's outstanding.
Click to expand...

How's your charging handle?
Mine is a bear to pull back. Maybe there's a trick or maybe it just needs a little lube, you know, plastic on plastic.
 
hostler
Just comparing the pics of yours to what I see in mine, I think what happened is they pushed the roll pins in from the top hole and didn't push it in all the way until it's flush with the bottom hole. Then maybe the roll pin didn't fully pass completely through the groove in the firing pin.
Click to expand...

Either that or the retainer pin pin is broken off.
The bottom end of the firing pin only enters into the firing pin channel a few thousands of an inch, just enough to retain the spring and pin t get the gun out the door.

The charge handle is pretty stiff for sure.

Thanks all
Cheers
James
 
hostler said:
How's your charging handle?
Mine is a bear to pull back. Maybe there's a trick or maybe it just needs a little lube, you know, plastic on plastic.
Click to expand...

Out of the box it was a "bear" to pull back. Did a full cleaning to get rid of the storage lube (I think it's a dry storage lube) and then fresh lube. While I was cleaning, I'd take a little break (watching a movie) and just kept running the charging handle back and forth (with some pressure added) on the slide, that seemed to help quite a bit.

After a full cleaning, lube, inspecting each part and reassembly I just kept working it back and forth with everything (bolt, springs, butt back on, re-installed). Didn't "slingshot" the bolt, just road it back and forth so many times I lost count. With the fresh lube and constant cycling, it did help quite bit. Almost a night and day difference. After more break-in firing, it should ease up even more. But, I think it will be a two finger pull charging handle for a straight even pull back charging. Got to remember, these are brand new and have fresh tooling, tolerances will be at there best on this first run. Good thing in my book. Hope this helped.

NOW FOR EVERYONE ELSE. Best suggestion for everyone. READ THE MANUAL FIRST !!! I don't care how experienced or un-experienced you (think) you are. This is a new "animal" on the block. Seems to have a dry storage lube, SO CLEAN THE LIVING DAYLIGHTS OUT OF IT WITH A GUN FRIENDLY CLEANER !!! THEN USE A PROPER GUN LUBE MADE FOR WEAPONS !!! NO DICKIN' AROUND WITH MAMBY PAMBY HOMEMADE CLEANERS & LUBES !!! It has different materials through out the whole weapon. It's a Pistol round, Collapsible, Carbine made for short to (extended) medium range use. Think of it as a Full Size M&P on Steroids. :)

Smith & Wesson did their homework on this one and come out with an OUTSTANDING WEAPON. SO, don't screw it up cutting corners !!!
 
Last edited:
hostler said:
Ok, I took an opportunity and tore into the gun a little. My bolt face looks like new, no hammer marks at all, completely flat. It is, unfired though. If the firing pin was just lose, floating in there, I can see how the bolt face may take some abuse from the hammer. The firing pin is definitely spring loaded.

Oh yeah, I wanted to see what the face of the hammer looks like so I let the hammer fall softly with the bolt out of the gun (these things have got the cheesiest little hammers), anyway, if you make the mistake and do this, unless you have ET fingers, you won't be able to reset the hammer by hand. I discovered a trick that I'll share if you need it. It tough to explain so I won't go into it now.
Click to expand...

Mine had been test fired. It had a "dirty" oily bolt face, and barrel chamber was a "titch" dirty.

Thought about the trigger, but the manual says NOT to do that and make sure safety is on. Made sense when it comes to reinserting the bolt, slide and springs. Needs a little force getting it in and can/could damage the hammer if it's been pulled and "standing" up.
 
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