Thanks for the info. Knowing it will take a month is better than anticipating a quick return and being disappointed. The fix seems like a much better design with the solid pins. I wonder how much money they thought they would save with the original pins.
Any M&P FPC Shooters Out There??
- Thread starter justicetyme
- Start date
cjt50
Member
For the folks that received an updated bolt; Is their a way to identify the rifle has the updated bolt with out tearing it apart?
JRD
Member
It's the same bolt. No design change in the bolt- just headed solid pins versus the split pins. You can drop in the new solid pins if you have an early gun with the split pins.
You do need to take the bolt out to see the pins.
You do need to take the bolt out to see the pins.
cjt50
Member
OP
JRD
Interesting observation.
Have you actually put the "headed" pins into a bolt that came with roll pins?
To have the keeper holes counterbored to a depth sufficient to use the "headed" pins and then not use the far superior retainment mechanism is somewhat puzzling.
I do know that the bolt on mine is definitely a different bolt, not because the work order said, "Replaced Bolt" but because I had taken several pictures of my original bolt and the bolt it came back with is not that original bolt.
It seems odd that if a simple drop in of the solid "headed" pins would correct the issue that the entire bolt assembly would be replaced.
Puzzling indeed!
Interesting observation.
Have you actually put the "headed" pins into a bolt that came with roll pins?
To have the keeper holes counterbored to a depth sufficient to use the "headed" pins and then not use the far superior retainment mechanism is somewhat puzzling.
I do know that the bolt on mine is definitely a different bolt, not because the work order said, "Replaced Bolt" but because I had taken several pictures of my original bolt and the bolt it came back with is not that original bolt.
It seems odd that if a simple drop in of the solid "headed" pins would correct the issue that the entire bolt assembly would be replaced.
Puzzling indeed!
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JRD
Member
I have indeed put the headed pins into the original bolt that came in my FPC. My contact confirmed it is the same bolt.
As to why warranty replaced the whole bolt versus just the pins in yours? Who knows. Maybe it was faster/easier for the warranty repair guy to just grab a new already assembled bolt than install new pins. That’s speculation but plausible.
As to why warranty replaced the whole bolt versus just the pins in yours? Who knows. Maybe it was faster/easier for the warranty repair guy to just grab a new already assembled bolt than install new pins. That’s speculation but plausible.
FPC bolt won't go back in
I am trying to reassembly the bolt on the FPC but it will not go back into place. I have pushed, jiggled, bumped, etc. but no luck. When I look inside it appears that maybe the hammer may be stopping the bolt from moving forward. The hammer is in the cocked position. Any thoughts? Thanks
I am trying to reassembly the bolt on the FPC but it will not go back into place. I have pushed, jiggled, bumped, etc. but no luck. When I look inside it appears that maybe the hammer may be stopping the bolt from moving forward. The hammer is in the cocked position. Any thoughts? Thanks
slabside2
Member
If you’re sure that the hammers in the cocked position push the bolt in and when you get resistance Get a wooden dowel or something and a hammer and tap it in, and it’ll slide past the hammer and go all the way into the action. That’s only if you’re sure the hammers in the cocked position.
OP
Before even trying to put the bolt back in look in the ejection port and verify the hammer is cocked.
If it's not fold the carbine and take a 3/8" or so wooden or brass dowel and recock it.
Now put the bolt in and push forward until it stops against the hammer.
With the dowel push the hammer back while pushing the bolt carrier assembly forward.
As soon as it rides over the hammer remove the dowel and push the bolt home.
There's no need to tap, hammer, etc. On the bolt carrier if the hammer is pushed back to allow the bolt to ride over it.
If it's not fold the carbine and take a 3/8" or so wooden or brass dowel and recock it.
Now put the bolt in and push forward until it stops against the hammer.
With the dowel push the hammer back while pushing the bolt carrier assembly forward.
As soon as it rides over the hammer remove the dowel and push the bolt home.
There's no need to tap, hammer, etc. On the bolt carrier if the hammer is pushed back to allow the bolt to ride over it.
LVSteve
Member
Why would the hammer be released? Is that required in the disassembly process?
OP
Because the trigger is pulled!
Gripgrabber
US Veteran
Hello, I have checked my bolt and found it has split pins.
I have no problems to date but, my? Is has anyone contacted sw cs and got the new pins from sw and installed themselves?
Semper paratus
I have no problems to date but, my? Is has anyone contacted sw cs and got the new pins from sw and installed themselves?
Semper paratus
First, thank you for all the responses to my question.
I finally got the bolt to go into place. The hammer was chocked but I had to use a dowel to push it down further so that the bolt could slide forward. So I either have a bad hammer assembly or the design is faulty. Field stripping and cleaning should not require a dowel, stick, hammer or rock. I saw one video showing a person using a dowel and hammer to tap the bolt into place, but in 60 years of gun ownership I have never had to tap a bolt to get it back in any rifle.
I finally got the bolt to go into place. The hammer was chocked but I had to use a dowel to push it down further so that the bolt could slide forward. So I either have a bad hammer assembly or the design is faulty. Field stripping and cleaning should not require a dowel, stick, hammer or rock. I saw one video showing a person using a dowel and hammer to tap the bolt into place, but in 60 years of gun ownership I have never had to tap a bolt to get it back in any rifle.
Just adding my experience, I ordered a new FPC from Sportsmans Warehouse on April 7th, received the order on April 14th. Performed a field strip to clean and lube, noted that the unit came with the upgraded bolt/retainer pins. Took it to the range, ran 150rnds through it without issue. Noted that it likes 124gr more than 115gr or 147gr.
Sportsmans Warehouse had the FPC up on their website back in early March and I elected to be notified when it became available. About a week later, the webpage for the FPC was removed from their website completely. It was gone for several weeks until I finally noticed it was back on their website in early April and I could order it.
I'm curious if they pulled it down for a few weeks due to the firing pin retainer pin issue becoming apparent and then put it back up once S&W had implemented the new bolt/retainers. It's possible S&W put the product on hold until they could get the new bolts in them to stave off more warranty work.
X
Sportsmans Warehouse had the FPC up on their website back in early March and I elected to be notified when it became available. About a week later, the webpage for the FPC was removed from their website completely. It was gone for several weeks until I finally noticed it was back on their website in early April and I could order it.
I'm curious if they pulled it down for a few weeks due to the firing pin retainer pin issue becoming apparent and then put it back up once S&W had implemented the new bolt/retainers. It's possible S&W put the product on hold until they could get the new bolts in them to stave off more warranty work.
X
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The hammer should be cocked. The second step in disassembly is to put the safety on. The user manual also has a warning to NOT dry fire the FPC when disassembled.
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Your firing pin retaining pin probably fell out when the weapon was dry fired. This happens when the factory installs the pin backwards. The retaining pin is larger on one end (like the head of a nail). That end belongs in the larger hole at the top.
Those that see this larger end protruding out the bottom need to press on the firing pin to release the pressure on the retaining pin, remove the pin, and insert it from the top.
My wife just bought this and had this problem. The trigger block retaining pin on her Equalizer was also inserted backwards and began 'walking' out while at the range. I had to pop out the take-down lever, remove the pin, and insert it from the other direction.
I still love Smith, but that is two weapons in less than six months with pins inserted backwards!
Those that see this larger end protruding out the bottom need to press on the firing pin to release the pressure on the retaining pin, remove the pin, and insert it from the top.
My wife just bought this and had this problem. The trigger block retaining pin on her Equalizer was also inserted backwards and began 'walking' out while at the range. I had to pop out the take-down lever, remove the pin, and insert it from the other direction.
I still love Smith, but that is two weapons in less than six months with pins inserted backwards!
OP
LouisRLinux,
Are you saying that your wife purchased a new FPC and the firing pin retention pin was inserted from the BOTTOM of the bolt?
J.
Are you saying that your wife purchased a new FPC and the firing pin retention pin was inserted from the BOTTOM of the bolt?
J.
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I got my FPC last week. Stripped, cleaned, oiled and assembled. It does have the new style firing pin retaining pin and extractor pins with heads. Installed a Sig Romeo 5 that I already had. Fired 150 rounds didn’t miss a beat. I will say the trigger pull lightened up a bit after these first rounds.
Fun to shoot, seems to be fairly accurate but won’t know that until some more rounds. With the 2-23 round mags loaded in stock holder it is rear heavy for sure which I figured it would be.
The one thing so far I definitely don’t care for is no easy access to the trigger group area. For both cleaning and inspection. The only way I can really see to clean the area is blasting with gun scrubber or some kind of spray cleaner. After spray I light blew it out and used some Hornady One Shot cleaner and dry lube.
Fun to shoot, seems to be fairly accurate but won’t know that until some more rounds. With the 2-23 round mags loaded in stock holder it is rear heavy for sure which I figured it would be.
The one thing so far I definitely don’t care for is no easy access to the trigger group area. For both cleaning and inspection. The only way I can really see to clean the area is blasting with gun scrubber or some kind of spray cleaner. After spray I light blew it out and used some Hornady One Shot cleaner and dry lube.
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One other thing on assembly where they recommend using a dowel to tap bolt back in I found with the rifle folded out slide bolt in to where dowel is used you can just stand rifle muzzle end down on work bench or floor on a piece of wood or something that won’t mar barrel and lift rifle and give a real gentle tap straight down the bolt will drop right into place.
This will be handy when out in the field or whenever you don’t have a dowel or rod to get bolt onto place.
This will be handy when out in the field or whenever you don’t have a dowel or rod to get bolt onto place.
