So I decieded to make a brass deflector

that's true, it can be cut with a waterjet. Quick google check a sheet of 12x12 of kydex is half the cost of the same size piece of aluminum. But I would prefer to keep the shield aluminum. If I had time to properly form it, it might not be problem, but could potential be inconsistent. With having the shield cut from aluminum, the machine shop can put it into a sheet metal brake a correctly form the piece to the right angle every time.

I'm not disagreeing; the Kydex was just a thought out of my ignorance. :)

What's the noise from the cases hitting the deflector like?

I'm not so much interested in keeping the brass from hitting someone as getting it to drop in one pile on the bench so I don't have a mess to clean up off the deck. Maybe collect in a bucket. :)
 
Looking at all possible options is not ignorance in my opinion. Just thinking outside of the box or covering all the bases I may not have thought of. Such as Photoracer brought up several things I had not thought of.

The prototype I have are made of ABS plastic so there is not going to be much sound. I am curious to hear it with aluminum, should be a nice ping :)

I thought about that while at the range last night, if my box of federal was empty I would have positioned it for the brass to drop into it. That was one of the things I was attempting to watch for and for the most part I only felt 1 or 2 pieces of brass hit my arm while shooting. Other than that it was dropping straight down. When I go to the range later this week I will setup my camera on a small tripod and mount a GoPro camera to the 15-22 to get some video of it in action. I bought a Strikemark GoPro camera mount last week, but it has been a busy week and I forgot my camera and GoPro when packing up for the range.
 
noise is a good point. i could see "clink clink" getting old especially for someone with a suppressor.

im very interested in not having my brass bounce off the range divider and back onto my arm or in my shoe. :p
 
I don't doubt that it will make some noise, at what level though I am not sure. It could be louder than the action or not. But at this point it is all speculation on the noise level.

I know what you mean. I took a friend of mine shooting and even though he is left handed like me, a piece of brass bounced off of the divider and went down the back of his shirt, which was tucked in. He was not to happy about that. So this will have benefits to those who are right handed and those of use that are left handed.
 
The prototype I have are made of ABS plastic so there is not going to be much sound. I am curious to hear it with aluminum, should be a nice ping :)

Is the ABS a viable material, production-wise? It would be quieter, but I have no doubt the AL would have a longer service life.
 
The plastic would get the job done. But it would have to a piece big enough the machine out the shape of the shield. So it would not be cost effective alternative.
 
The plastic would get the job done. But it would have to a piece big enough the machine out the shape of the shield. So it would not be cost effective alternative.

That's what I was afraid of.

If you want a guinea pig to try them out, I'm willing. I shoot at least once a week.
 
Another volunteer guinea pig here.

I'm a lefty and I shoot/slay every night. My right forearm thinks this is a good idea.

I don't have a fancy camera to make videos though.
 
If the cost to have these printed in plastic wasn't so expensive I would happily send some out for testing. However once I have a final design and product in hand I will gladly send some out for abuse.
 
I say make it out of Carbon Fiber (the attachment can be machined mil spec aluminum). Pre-Preg carbon could be laid out on a long mold to get a continious piece from which many pieces can be cut out, not sure about water jetting CF though.
 
If noise is an issue, lay a strip of self-stick soft-side Velcro on the inside of the shield. That should cushion the noise of the casings hitting the shield quite well. It's available almost everywhere, for pretty cheap, so if it ever wears out from repeated hits, just peel it off and stick a new strip on.

Just a thought.
 
this seems like something that could be injection molded plastic, and a low profile spring tab mechanism could hold it down.

could this also potentially deflect sound from the chamber?

could also be rubber all one piece so it bends securely to fit on the rail (think rail cover) and the slotted idea would work nicely, or even a clear window (since the rubber could provide the tension to hold it in place).
 
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I say make it out of Carbon Fiber (the attachment can be machined mil spec aluminum). Pre-Preg carbon could be laid out on a long mold to get a continious piece from which many pieces can be cut out, not sure about water jetting CF though.

Carbon Fiber would look cool. Using a waterjet to cut it could be a problem though, as it may be difficult to clean up the edges after cutting it out.

If noise is an issue, lay a strip of self-stick soft-side Velcro on the inside of the shield. That should cushion the noise of the casings hitting the shield quite well. It's available almost everywhere, for pretty cheap, so if it ever wears out from repeated hits, just peel it off and stick a new strip on.

Just a thought.

Great idea!

this seems like something that could be injection molded plastic, and a low profile spring tab mechanism could hold it down.

could this also potentially deflect sound from the chamber?

could also be rubber all one piece so it bends securely to fit on the rail (think rail cover) and the slotted idea would work nicely, or even a clear window (since the rubber could provide the tension to hold it in place).

It could be injection molded, but the cost of having those molds made would be extremely costly. I would have to be able to guarantee that I could sell a large quantity of these quickly to recover cost of tooling.

I highly doubt it will deflect any noise from the chamber.
 
I checked out some vid's on youtube and apparently you can WaterJet CF no problemo :)

You could outsource the metal component to a manufacturer (already have one in mind) and the Carbon, you would need to make a long mold so that long sections could be
pre-preg and cured and then water jetted out of the master piece, with grooves like you section design.
 
All great ideas but TC accessories already has them for $19.95 thumb screw and all if you really need one.....Projected price of 30-50 is going to be a death blow.....best regards Plum
 
All great ideas but TC accessories already has them for $19.95 thumb screw and all if you really need one.....Projected price of 30-50 is going to be a death blow.....best regards Plum

That is a viable option. In my original design I had made a top mounted brass deflector. But decided to do a side mount, due to majority of owners having an optic of some type mounted in the general area above the ejection port. Most owners still have the stock fore end, so to me it seemed logical to go with a side mount instead of trying to design a top mount to work around all of the various optics everyone is running.
 
But decided to do a side mount, due to majority of owners having an optic of some type mounted in the general area above the ejection port.

I agree with your assessment. A local shooter has one of the TCs on his AR and we tried it out on my 15-22. Worked, but not with the scope and riser on the upper.

I hate to harp on price but anything much over $20 will be a slow seller.
 
Believe me, I know price is going to be a major factor in this. Hopefully I have estimated this high. Once I have a bit more feed back on this I will start to shop around with various machine shops to get a better idea on the cost.

One of the last things I need to do, is find my chamber flag that came with my rifle so I can see if it fits with out issue with the brass deflector installed. I have ran around the last couple of days trying to buy one, but to no avail.
 
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Long term if it is a huge seller I would go with a single piece injection molded. Maybe make the two 45s a big bigger so it slide on the rail with a small set screw to sinch it up tight.
 
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