I notice a couple of threads about suppressors going on now & one is starting to discuss cleaning. I am 5 months into my wait for my stamp for my 22Sparrow and would like to centralize the cleaning discussion.

So any help and pics would be appreciated. So how do you clean yours? What works & what doesn't? How clean is clean?

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A friend at AAC instructed me to soak the parts in mineral spirits, which works. I find it works better if the spirits are cut with about 10% Hoppe's No. 9. For pistol and rifle cans that do not allow disassembly, this works well. Soak them for a few hours and blow the residual fluid out with an air compressor.

22LR cans are a bit different. Due to the lead and powder build up, the baffles get coated with a very hard to remove film.

My own personal experience has been to let the parts soak for 8 to 10 hours and then scrub them off with a plastic cleaning brush. However, there is a caveat. The soaking solution turns rather caustic after this period of time.

Early on, I allowed all of the parts to soak (baffles, tube, and end caps). When I let them sit overnight, I found the paint had been dissolved on the bottom of the tube that was in contact with the sediment at the bottom of the soaking dish.

AAC was nice enough to refinish the exterior parts at no charge, but it was not a nice learning experience.

So needless to say, I now only soak the baffles, and clean the tube and end caps with some WD-40 or CLP.

Personally, I would like to find something that does a little better job removing the crud from the baffles than my current technique provides. So I will say tuned to this thread.

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Uva Uvam Vivendo Varia Fit

Google the dip for cleaning silencers.

Yes, I have done that & typical of most discussions, if you ask 10 people you end up with 10 different responses. Some say don't dip but use sonic cleaners... as the dip becomes toxic, I would assume from the lead residue.

How do you clean yours, Phil?

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Looks like we must have sent our forms in about the same time. I'm also about 5 months into a wait for a Sparrow. Just called to check recently and it went pending January 8th, the operator said that should put it in my hands in July.

Since the Sparrow is stainless steel I'm under the impression it can be cleaned with a concoction of chemicals called "the dip" that I'd rather not expose myself to. Just so happens that over at NFATalk there is a thread talking about an inexpensive soda blaster. Check it out here: NFA Talk - Soda Blaster

On a similar note over there at NFATalk there is a thread about getting a group buy together on a Melonite treatment for the sparrow tubes. It seems that they are getting close to their minimum, which might actually be achieved before we receive our Sparrows. Still worth checking out that thread though. NFA Talk - Sparrow Melonite Treatment

Another quick thing, I understand that the dip and ultrasonic cleaning should not be used on aluminum. Shouldn't be a problem on the newer Sparrow since it's stainless steel. Also particularly high pressure blasting could damage the finish at leas on aluminum if not others.

My understand in the external tube on the Sparrow is not stainless & care must be taken with it... basically remember it is not stainless. From what I understand, this is not an issue as the external tube doesn't get fouled with lead... just the stainless interior. I have read where some put all parts in the cleaner and damaged the exterior tube.

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Thank you. I have. I'm looking for alternatives to the "Dip," as I would really prefer not having to deal with the disposal of the used solution.

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Uva Uvam Vivendo Varia Fit

Some interesting links out there regarding "The Dip". Do you folks use 50% vinegar & 50% hydrogen peroxide... and do you use store bought HP or the stronger stuff from a pool supply? Also, some discussion on the toxic nature of the lead & the byproduct of the dip would be helpful. What do you do with the dip when you are done? You wear special gloves? You wear a respirator?

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Seems to me any cleaning will result in toxic byproduct. The lead by itself is exceeding dangerous & any chemical used, be it dip or otherwise, would be contaminated... wouldn't it?

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That is true about the Sparrow having the external tube that shouldn't get as fouled up and need as much cleaning. But I think the entire thing is stainless. Their product sheet only lists SS in the materials: http://22sparrow.com/pdf/Silencerco-...duct-Sheet.pdf

Even if the outside tube isn't stainless, if you were to take advantage of the Melonite treatment that is being discussed at NFA Talk that would seem like a good investment to me. From that thread:

For me, I think I'll try the soda blaster. Cheap and easy. I'd wear a dust mask and safety glasses regardless of how I clean it. Also, baking soda will kill grass, according to some people in the NFATalk thread (their wives were less than happy about that).

But what about the toxic lead that is being removed by the blasting? Where is that going... in your yard where the kids play?

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I'm thinking a 5 gallon bucket.

Maid service.

I just sent my Wraith to Yankee Hill for service. It's a sealed can. The first time I sent it in (around 25k rounds) they cleaned it up and sent it back free of charge. I just sent it in again at around 50k rounds. My guess is that they will charge me $100 for a new baffle. $100 every 50k rounds and not fool around with chemicals and scrubbing... works for me. Yankee Hill says to dunk their sealed can in mineral spirits overnight every 500rds. It don't work.

I am waiting for my stamp on a Sparrow. Should have it by... well... who knows?!? When I get it I'll revisit this thread and see what y'all have come up with.

I don't understand your concern about "toxic lead" . If 99.9% of the lead comes out the muzzle and .1% stays in the supressor, what did you do with that 99.9% of the toxic lead? Why not pour the cleaning on the same berm you used to stop your bullets?

Phil,

If you're interested in the Melonite treatment the vendor that is doing the work can receive from and return to your dealer the Sparrow with no additional paperwork/tax. Well, no additional ATF paperwork, just a work order.

i just received my completed form 4 from batf...61/2 month wait if that helps

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KK4EMO

Curious why you put toxic lead in quotes. Kinda makes it seem like you don't think lead is toxic. As a printer, I have to deal with lots of toxic chemicals and we have to have the proper equipment & controls for each. Most of our bullets are coated, so normal handling is not an issue. Also, most of us don't go hunt up the lead bullets & mess with them. However, with a suppressor, you get a buildup of lead & other toxins that has to be removed. That means dissolving this crud or scraping/blasting it.

Lead is exceedingly toxic, especially when it has been broken down into dust or liquified with a solvent (the dip). If anyone is blasting the lead off, I would highly recommend using proper controls... but that is just me. It is a free country & if you want to poison yourself or your yard, then go for it.

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What's this about a melonite treatment? (Worried that it will be something I just gotta have )

Found these comments from an employee of the company that makes the Sparrow.

My name is Steve and I have just started here at SilencerCo working for Gary in sales. I am excited to get involved and be a part of a great and thriving company. I thought i would just take a minute to share my experience with cleaning the sparrow.

I have spent a lot of the last 2 days using different techniques to clean the Sparrow. From using break free COP and scrubbing the hell out of it to the Dip. I found the scrubbing doesn't get you very far. And that the Ultra-sonic cleaner did pretty well but still left all the led behind. I had the best results with the Dip. I checked it about every hour. You shouldn't need to clean the tube and the back cap, however if you do be careful with the dip and the ultra-sonic because it will take the black oxide off. It took about 3 hours sitting in the dip and then i pulled it right out and scrubbed on it a little bit and everything came either off in the dip or with a light scrub. It worked great and now i have a very clean can to go get dirty again.

Just remember with the dip to be very careful and use thick rubber gloves.

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I have an AAC Pilot and have used it for many years...
I made a tube out of PVC pipe with end caps....one sealed and on screwed-on. I fill the pipe with WD-40, immerse the suppressor, screw on the end cap and allow it to soak overnight. Next day, I pull it out, drain for a couple of minutes, blow out the residual fluid....good to go!

Terry

Yes, I believe it would be. I'm not a chemist, but my understanding is vinegar and hydrogen peroxide liquefy the lead by converting it to lead acetate. The latter is really something I would rather not come in contact with and/or have to dispose of.

Mineral spirits and a brush just allow me to knock of the cordite buildup and whatever lead comes with it, and produces a sediment mostly comprised of solids. I save off the solution for reuse and toss the sediments.

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Uva Uvam Vivendo Varia Fit

From an earlier post I made...

Thanks Terry. Please explain good to go. Is all the lead buildup gone? Assuming it is & it dissolved the lead, what do you do with the fluid?

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My local tire shop has a HAZMAT bin. The left over dip stays in the pickle jar, clearly labeled "LEAD ACETATE", and I turn it in to my local tire shop at my tire rotations/oil change every 6 months.

I bought my Spectre2 (all SS) and Sparrow SS (- the tube) because all I need to do is drop it in the dip 6-24 hours. Let dry and reassemble. It doesn't get easier than that.

This is what 1K rounds looks like through my old Spectre 1. This is why you should buy a user serviceable .22 LR can.

that's why i only have one sealed can in .22, the other 4 are take down, owner serviceable. centerfire cans don't need cleaning much, so as they don't get used much i just annually clean them with Kroil soak overnight scrub with a bottle brush, blow out with compressor and done.

my one pilot is not a take apart. it is 3 times as heavy as when i bought it. although still as quiet, to my ear.

i've kroiled it for 72 hours and got a lot of crud out, but not all the lead as it is basically welded in there. i'm going to send it off to be jailbroken so it is user friendly.

the dip is great,but man is it dangerous. breath it..bad, get on skin..bad..dump down storm drain..bad, just bad all the way around. but it cleans the **** out of them.
my cheapo harbor freight blasting box and soda or corn cob or crushed walnut hulls cleans very well....just ensure you wear a good mask, goggles and we have these disposable hazmat suits made of paper that i use.
ensure you blast out of the grass and areas where you have pets/kids. whole west side of my house, outside the wall is desert so i have no issue there. blast away.
a piece of aluminum foil in the dip will last about 29 mins before it is gone, so no go on any AL. Iconel and SS and Ti are all good to go in the dip (although that first time putting that expensive as sin titanium can into it makes the pucker factor go through the roof is ugly) but they do come clean.
when the sealed can starts to keyhole or sound like no can at all i'll have it jail broke for $200, the clean it and thread ends with new endcaps, then i'll be good to go again.

Update :

OK All. I just got the word tonight that Bendersquint, a.k.a Matt @ Stalking Rhino Industries, has the official blessing from SilencerCo/SWR to start the process of treating the steel or stainless steel SilencerCo Sparrow suppressors with Melonite. I will send in my Sparrow tomorrow as a test so we can see the results of the finished product on the entire can. It should take a few weeks to get mine back.

The final costs of doing the tube or the entire suppressor will be determined after we see the results. The finish has been decided as a flat matte black.

Happy happy, joy joy.

I use a Thumler Tumbler with stainless steel pins to clean my SWR Spectre.

I clean about every few bricks and it does not take long to really make the baffles shine.

I heat my baffles to ~200 F in the oven while they are coated in froglube paste.... I then rub more froglube into them as they cool.... for cleaning i clean every 500 rds or 1 week whichever comes first, with paper towels and froglube paste.... the crud wipes off amazingly well.....

Could you please post a link to the "stainless steel pins" that you use in your tumbler? The finish and cleaning action looks quite good.

nitewatchman

Here you go.

Stainless Steel Reloading Supplies | Tumblers, Separators, Media, Brass & More!

I never heard of this method. I just started using Froglube and really like it except for the cost. Using the wife's oven is not and option in my house. It would be like her asking if she could re-pot some plants on my reloading bench!

I don't reload so do you know of anyone using a smaller version of the tumbler? That 15 lb model seems like overkill for just a suppressor?

You know how well it works on one piece models, like the 22Sparrow?

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Perfect! Thanks!

nitewatchman

Believe it or not, put down aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, and you only get a -slight- smell of mint.... its not bad, doesn't burn or splatter.... Trust me my wife looked at me velly funny the first time i tried it (velly funny = "Buying me a new oven soon huh?") If you did it while she was out, she would never know.....

Oh so would know alright.

The supernatural detection means is genetically encoded in females along with the ability to recall this event at random times in the future for at least 50 years.

Just before I was married, I had dressed a deer and used the vegetable crisper in the refrigerator in the process. There was some evidence left in the bottom and under the crisper on the floor of the refrigerator (I plead guilty to blood stains). After she moved in and found this she freaked out thinking I was a serial killer. After 35 years I still hear about this one on a regular basis.

nitewatchman

Some of you people married weird women.

The 15lb tumbler is really not all that big. I have no idea how it would work with a one piece baffle, but if I had a one piece, I would purchase the 15 lb model to insure there was plenty of room for tumbling.

Truth. Mine would want to know when her suppressor was.

Thanks for your info. I placed an order today for their kit which includes the tumbler, 5 lbs. of stainless pins plus the detergent.

EDIT: Received email that order has already shipped... same day as ordered.

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Tell me about it....for some reason my ex didn't find it funny when I would use the oven for cylinder sleeve removal or installation. She would get really POed if I put a set of cases in there to remove any bearings.

Used the tumbler method with the stainless pins on my 22Sparrow. I had around 500 rounds thru it, so it was not terribly dirty.

The tumbler did a pretty good job but it certainly didn't make it look like new. This pic shows what it looks like after 12 hours... 4 yesterday & 8 today. Think I will try the dip to remove the remaining residue.

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I just had Stalking Rhino Industries treat my Silencer Co. SS Sparrow with Melonite. I worry less now about the alloy tube rusting as fast when shot wet. I have no idea yet if it makes it easier to clean but I'm really liking how it came out.

Before:



After:


Before:



After:


Before:


After:

Looking forward to having this done to my Sparrow as well. Hoping that SRI is getting closer to working on an integral setup for the 15-22 as well.

I have heard that sulfuric acid added to the lead acetate will precipitate out the lead. Once that happens the solution can be tossed and the lead sulfate thrown away. One could possibly read up on it a little more as I don't have all the facts. It still is toxic as hell.

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5906,1911 DK #13,M41,422's,745

Since I run a printing company, we deal with toxic stuff all the time & have the services come by to pick it up. So a little chemistry experiment doesn't scare me.

It is bubbling away, as we speak. I'm thinking a 2 step process might not be such a bad idea. First tumble it to get off all the main stuff then dip to finish.

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I've been working on cleaning the baffles from my AAC Pilot2 recently; they are anodized aluminum, so I am reluctant to tumble them. What I did recently was soak them in Hoppes9 for about a day, then scrubbed off the rest of the loead to about 90% clean.

I started to scrape off the remainder with a small screwdriver, but became leary of damaging the anodizing, so I stopped. 90% is good for now.

I found these two items today, and purchased the longer single pick to get off the last bit of lead when I am feeling picky (see what I did there?).

Amazon.com : Pro-Shot Brass Gun Pick Cleaning Tool : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21mFgGOB7lL.@@AMEPARAM@@21mFgGOB7lL

Amazon.com : Otis Technology Brass Scraper FG-932 : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41sjSSZOypL.@@AMEPARAM@@41sjSSZOypL

Another source for picks is your dentist. They replace their dental picks on a regular basis and most dentists have a drawer full of old ones. Most will give you two or three just to get rid of them. They are much better than fat picks for getting into tight spaces.

The plastic ones that Cabelas, Midway and others sell aren't worth a dime for actual cleaning.

That's what i did when i was 1SG at the TMC and the dental clinic was next door. went over and got picks just about daily. that was the year i retired and wound up with a tool box full!! still have over 50 today, last a long time and if you break one of the thinner ones, just cut it down and shape it to the shape you need for cleaning whatever. great tools to have.
If no dental clinic anywhere, harbor freight hast them cheap also.

If the brass tool doesn't meet my expectations, I'll look into the SS picks; they certainly are cheaper!