M&p 15-22 will not group

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Jmcamaro69

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Hi new to the group. I have had this gun about three years. Was able to shoot 1 inch groups at 50 yards. Fairly contestant. When about a week ago it started going all over the place. Got home checked the barrel nut at 20 inch pounds its ok scope ring clamps to 20 inch pounds and 15 on the caps all ok. Checked and cleaned the barrel not bad at all. Still shoots the same. Went and got a new sig 4-16x40 buckmaster and new rings.both are mounted on the receiver. Still very inconsistent. Asking for suggestions before sending it in to S&W
 
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Sounds like you already checked the obvious....scope/mount, barrel. Using the same ammo? Clean the chamber really well. Use a .243 brass brush and use some good lead solvent. A clean barrel is nice, but a dirty chamber, especially on a rimfire will degrade accuracy significantly.
 
Precision .22 shooters clean the chamber and leade only, leaving the barrel scrub for a "blue moon". They also clean from the chamber end of the barrel only, to avoid possible crown damage.

I would also try some fresh .22 ammo. I've seen .22LR that's been stored or transported in hot conditions go from from shooting well to something awful.
 
I've tried cci standard velocity cci mini mag 36 and40 gr. Federal auto match, eley sport. I have about 1500 rounds through it and has been cleaned 3 or 4 times. From chamber out only. Thanks for all your suggestions. Going to the range tomorrow if not any better I guess it's off to S&W
 
Eric300 said:
Sounds like you already checked the obvious....scope/mount, barrel. Using the same ammo? Clean the chamber really well. Use a .243 brass brush and use some good lead solvent. A clean barrel is nice, but a dirty chamber, especially on a rimfire will degrade accuracy significantly.
Click to expand...

Yep, making it squeaky clean is an obvious first step; but there ain't no such thing as "good lead solvent"--------and if there really is, it still makes a mess!

Do yourself a favor, and go to the Notable Thread Index in the early Hand Ejector section-----then scroll down until you see the "lead in barrel" thread, and go there. Then do what I tell you in my post, and you're going to end up with the cleanest bore you've ever seen. The even better news is it's not going to cost you hardly anything, and it's not going to take hardly any of your time! Now it'll take some of your time the first time around, but when you're through with that, you're going to be an EXPERT---just like me!!

As an aside, we're talking about .38 Specials there; so you're not going to be needing anywhere near a half a strip of copper cloth to wrap around your brush. How much you're going to need is one of those trial and error things, and when you're finished with the trial and error part, you're good to go------FOREVER!!

You're welcome!!

Ralph Tremaine

The bottom line of all this is the gentleman who recommended some good lead removal solvent believes it's made to remove lead. I believe it's made to sell to folks with lead in their barrel. I came to believe that when the Wilson Combat folks taught me there's a better way----a looooooong time ago!!
 
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Sorry it took so long to get back on here. It only took about 2 weeks from the time I sent it in to having it back in my hands. From S&W witch was great. They replaced the barrel and it shoots great. They did not say what the problem was with the barrel.
 
Good to hear you got taken care of. Now go make up for lost time and have fun shooting it! It a great little shooter.
 
Eric300 said:
Sounds like you already checked the obvious....scope/mount, barrel. Using the same ammo? Clean the chamber really well. Use a .243 brass brush and use some good lead solvent. A clean barrel is nice, but a dirty chamber, especially on a rimfire will degrade accuracy significantly.
Click to expand...

As an alternative to "some good lead solvent"---if there is such a thing, try this:

Go to the Notable Thread Index in the early hand ejector section, and scroll down to the "lead in barrel" thread. Do what I tell you in my first post. ANY and ALL lead (and any and all everything else) will be GONE in short order, six to eight passes----and at the cost of a good candy bar--or less!

Any/all chambers/barrels/any other hole with lead in it will be SQUEAKY CLEAN in short order with no muss, no fuss, and no bother!!

I say "Do what I tell you------." It's more like do what Wilson Combat told me.

The secret to success is twofold: First is a DRY bore! Second is the right fit for the tool I tell you how to make. That'll likely take a little trial and error. Once you have it, SUCCESS is guarandamnteed!!

Ralph Tremaine
 
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