pmc847
Member
PMCs M&P PC C.O.R.E. M1.75
Yes, got tired of waiting for the new CORE M2 5". So, I upgraded my M1.0 PC CORE with a new M2.0 locking/trigger block and sear block. Trigger pull is 2 1/4 lbs, trigger travel is .138 inch with no over travel. You need about .020" pre travel to get a good reset. Using Apex M2.0 FFS kit and Apex competition springs. Also Apex barrel and Vortex Razor red dot. This is my range pistol ready for competition. I did shoot a mag full just to make sure all is functioning. It is snowing right now so long shooting session will have to wait. SWEET.
Do I recommend this approach? I'm happy with it so far and for me it was no big deal to make things fit. The locking block was the easiest. Almost a drop in. Just need to remove the nub on the bottom of the block and a little plastic where the takedown lever goes thru the frame. You can use the M1 lever but it will not be retained upon takedown. The M2 lever will be retained with a little filing. The sear block was a little more detailed but luckily I have a M2.0 to guide me. Slide lock up seems to be tighter than my M2.0C and definitely better that stock.
For less than $20 you can upgrade the locking block. Got all the parts from Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 Parts.
For $40 you can upgrade the sear block (no thumb safety) and trigger bar.
Please remember YMMV.
Cheers
Philip
Yes, got tired of waiting for the new CORE M2 5". So, I upgraded my M1.0 PC CORE with a new M2.0 locking/trigger block and sear block. Trigger pull is 2 1/4 lbs, trigger travel is .138 inch with no over travel. You need about .020" pre travel to get a good reset. Using Apex M2.0 FFS kit and Apex competition springs. Also Apex barrel and Vortex Razor red dot. This is my range pistol ready for competition. I did shoot a mag full just to make sure all is functioning. It is snowing right now so long shooting session will have to wait. SWEET.
Do I recommend this approach? I'm happy with it so far and for me it was no big deal to make things fit. The locking block was the easiest. Almost a drop in. Just need to remove the nub on the bottom of the block and a little plastic where the takedown lever goes thru the frame. You can use the M1 lever but it will not be retained upon takedown. The M2 lever will be retained with a little filing. The sear block was a little more detailed but luckily I have a M2.0 to guide me. Slide lock up seems to be tighter than my M2.0C and definitely better that stock.
For less than $20 you can upgrade the locking block. Got all the parts from Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 Parts.
For $40 you can upgrade the sear block (no thumb safety) and trigger bar.
Please remember YMMV.
Cheers
Philip
I do see where the overtravel nub was moved higher up on the 2.0.
