PMCs M&P PC C.O.R.E. M1.75

pmc847

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PMCs M&P PC C.O.R.E. M1.75

Yes, got tired of waiting for the new CORE M2 5". So, I upgraded my M1.0 PC CORE with a new M2.0 locking/trigger block and sear block. Trigger pull is 2 1/4 lbs, trigger travel is .138 inch with no over travel. You need about .020" pre travel to get a good reset. Using Apex M2.0 FFS kit and Apex competition springs. Also Apex barrel and Vortex Razor red dot. This is my range pistol ready for competition. I did shoot a mag full just to make sure all is functioning. It is snowing right now so long shooting session will have to wait. SWEET.

Do I recommend this approach? I'm happy with it so far and for me it was no big deal to make things fit. The locking block was the easiest. Almost a drop in. Just need to remove the nub on the bottom of the block and a little plastic where the takedown lever goes thru the frame. You can use the M1 lever but it will not be retained upon takedown. The M2 lever will be retained with a little filing. The sear block was a little more detailed but luckily I have a M2.0 to guide me. Slide lock up seems to be tighter than my M2.0C and definitely better that stock.

For less than $20 you can upgrade the locking block. Got all the parts from Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 Parts.

For $40 you can upgrade the sear block (no thumb safety) and trigger bar.

Please remember YMMV.

Cheers

Philip
 
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Hmm.. Gonna start with the sear housing assembly and trigger bar in mine. Mine's not a true core but a fullsize with the 5" ported slide kit. Can't get 2.0 anything without paying a steep premium here in CA.
 
Well, my parts arrived yesterday. Hope to have some time today to swap out the parts.
 
Thanks, I don't have a 2.0 myself but know my way around my 1.0 pretty well, and then there's YT. ;) I do see where the overtravel nub was moved higher up on the 2.0.

I also have a performance center sear in my 1.0 that I'll try to fit in the 2.0 shb.
 
Not Yet, been a bit busy this week. However, I did have complete stock sear housing left from the upgrade to the PC sear. So I tried to put the 1.0 sear into the 2.0 housing. It worked on the bench.

Seems the real differences are in the sear housing itself to accommodate the sear actuator (that "c clip" doohickey). When I had the sears out, I could see where the 2.0 housing was relieved to accommodate the extra parts. The 2.0 also has that little fin on the bottom.

I'll take a few detailed pics to show it when I make the swap.

How's yours holding up?
 
Mine is wonderful. You will have to cut away some of the frame and bevel some of the edges so the new bock will fit.



IMG_5542.JPG
 
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I think you have your sear pin in backwards. The large head fits into the recess on the ejector side of the housing.
 
OK, so slight change in plans. I have a 9c 1.0 and decided to try that one first to see the difference from a stock 1.0 trigger. Turns out in my 9c, it was a total drop in. No cutting, or trimming. I am still using the 1.0 locking block.

So the results. It dry fires fine. Still has a long and gritty takeup to the sear wall. Most likely because I still have the 1.0 striker block. It's no worse than before. Once I hit the sear, it's a quick, clean break. Don't have a trigger pull gauge but I'm guessing it's still around the S&W spec. Reset is vastly improved. Much shorter than the 1.0 and very audible and tactile. My 1.0 has the upgraded slide stop with the extra bump to help reset.

I'm hoping it's the same drop in for my full size. The parts looked pretty smooth when I disassembled the sear housing but I'll give them a bit of polish before I reinstall them.

So for $50, not a bad upgrade. Could have gotten an APEX sear for that and perhaps equivalent results. Can't say though, don't have any APEX products.

However, sayin' I have a M&P v1.5 and the squinty eyed look I'll get, may be worth the price. :)
 

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