swca_none
swhf_none
nra_none
active_none
leo_none
ScottS
Member
After getting really dirty (mostly from suppressor use), my M&P9 (we'll call it 1.0, even though that's not an official designation) started to give me the dreaded "dead trigger," despite my 1/8" sear plunger and spring (the supposed factory fix). A quick dunk in the heated UC seemed to solve the problem, but, then again, it was intermittent, so it's hard to tell if I truly exercised that demon. Add to that the fact I was jonesin' for a M2.0 trigger, and I had an idea.
I ordered a M2.0 sear housing block and M2.0 trigger to see if I could make the swap. Couldn't find much written about it, so I figured I'd just go ahead and experiment. A quick look at the two shows the biggest (and most important) difference between the two:
This "tab" prevents the sear housing block from seating in the frame. Applying the theory of "grinding on the cheapest part," I carefully removed the tab. Here it is, tab removed and smoothed, but before the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black.
Here they are lined up.
After trimming, the sear housing block and 2.0 trigger dropped right in. No adjustments needed on anything else.
If you're particularly astute, you'll notice that's a Performance Center sear (and spring and plunger).
Trigger feels great, just like the trigger on my M&P M2.0 Compact.
It's probably fitting to drop these components into the gun, because it's a hybrid 1.0/2.0 anyway. I really like the aggressive texture of the M2.0. I don't want any added "girth," so the appliques like Talon Grips, etc. are out, and nothing says "ghetto" more than someone taking a soldering iron and "stippling," so my compromise was to add the backstrap from a M2.0. It gives me some added aggressive texture to keep the gun absolutely stationary in my hand. Not as good as a full M2.0 grip, but a definite improvement.
I ordered a M2.0 sear housing block and M2.0 trigger to see if I could make the swap. Couldn't find much written about it, so I figured I'd just go ahead and experiment. A quick look at the two shows the biggest (and most important) difference between the two:
This "tab" prevents the sear housing block from seating in the frame. Applying the theory of "grinding on the cheapest part," I carefully removed the tab. Here it is, tab removed and smoothed, but before the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black.
Here they are lined up.
After trimming, the sear housing block and 2.0 trigger dropped right in. No adjustments needed on anything else.
If you're particularly astute, you'll notice that's a Performance Center sear (and spring and plunger).
Trigger feels great, just like the trigger on my M&P M2.0 Compact.
It's probably fitting to drop these components into the gun, because it's a hybrid 1.0/2.0 anyway. I really like the aggressive texture of the M2.0. I don't want any added "girth," so the appliques like Talon Grips, etc. are out, and nothing says "ghetto" more than someone taking a soldering iron and "stippling," so my compromise was to add the backstrap from a M2.0. It gives me some added aggressive texture to keep the gun absolutely stationary in my hand. Not as good as a full M2.0 grip, but a definite improvement.
