I have a Shield 1 that I carry every day that has developed some rust on the front right corner of the slide.

I'm a pool contractor in South Florida and am around chlorine, muriatic acid, and other chemicals daily in a very humid part of the world. I carry in a DeSantis Incognito because there is just no way I wouldn't print while working and it just looks like a tool or meter pouch. Also, I thought that having the weapon completely enclosed in the holster would help with avoiding corrosion.

I wipe it down every day with a silicone cloth after getting home and removing it from the holster and it sits on a dresser overnight in an air conditioned house (there are no children, only two of us an both over 50). It is sufficiently lubricated. I also make sure that no debris stays in the holster, dumping and vacuuming it out as needed.

The front and rear sights are also developing some rust but I realize those aren't stainless while the slide is. Right? I fully realize the operative part of the word 'stainless' is '-less' but I'm wondering if the 'not' stainless sights are contributing to the small patch of rust on the slide itself.

Also, the finish is wearing somewhat on the slide in general. It's barely a year old, if that.

So, my questions are:

Should I get it cerakoted?

Should I replace the 'iron' sights with polymer sights?

Are there replacement slides in nickel by anyone? Would nickel even be more resistant to the constant humidity, rain and chemicals?

TIA

Cerakote would be an option. Although I use a silicone cloth as well, I would recommend regular gun oil in your case. Yours is a tougher environment, and the case you are using probably makes it worse, as it serves to trap moisture in the case. If you want to use the case, maybe you can put a packet of silica gel in the case to draw the moisture. You can get packs of them on Amazon. They can also be recharged by placing them in the oven.

Perhaps sealing the finish with Renaissance wax might also provide protection.

I have silica gel packs in the long term storage areas for my firearms. I get quite a few small ones regularly with test kits and electronics. I'll drop one in the case and see if it helps.
I can't help getting water on the holster but I always wipe the inside down with a rag to soak up as much liquid that might be there at the end of the day and leave the flap open while it's 'resting' overnight. The Incognito does have two small holes on either side of the bottom so water never pools inside it...and, so far in the year I've been carrying this I have yet to fall into a pool...though it's not out of the question, lol. I would do a full takedown clean if that ever happened.
Thanks for the suggestions!

@OldGoat: This stuff? Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia
lol, just checked with my better half who has been a museum curator and an amatuer jeweler...she has some I think. Thanks!

Living in South Louisiana ...heat , humidity , perspiration and rust did a number on my blued 1911 ... a Company called AMT came out with a all stainless steel 1911 called the Hardballer , bought the first one I saw, 1978-1979 ... that stainless steel solved all the rust and finish problems .
All the blued 1911's are gone but the stainless AMT sits next to me as we speak ... looks just as good as Day 1 ... No finish problems and very easy upkeep .
My recommendation ... trade it in on a stainless steel pistol .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

It is advertised by S&W to be a stainless slide and barrel, afaik.

However, as compared to my 2007/2008 full sized M&P, it doesn't say 'Stainless' on the slide.

Maybe I need to send an email to S&W.

I like stainless for sure. My older M&P has never had an issue, but it's never been a daily carry like this Shield has this last year.

Yes, that's it. Larry Potterfield - MidwayUSA - uses it in his gunsmithing segments and a good friend who collects high $$ shotguns swears by it on metal and wood. Worth a try. Regards...

Nice to see someone using their handgun for it’s intended purpose. Stainless is rust resistant - not rust proof. Plastic sights would be an idea as is the cerakote. The wax tip may prove worthwhile.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

When I lived in SC (close to FL for humidity), our AC was on a good chunk of the year. But it could still feel humid at times inside. I was nowhere near water with my SW but after every use and clean i would give it a light oiling and then store it inside a silicone sock but not in a case. Seemed to work as in our 6 years down there I never had any problem. I will add i never used the plastic cases w/foam for hauling or long term storage, read that oil could breakdown the foam padding. So i would use padded bags/soft cases, keeping the gun in the socks when not needed or in use.

I know, a lot of differences from what the OP deals with, just noting what seemed to work for me on my SW Compact 9 and a Buckmark.

Since a wipe with petroleum is being defeated, try the Ren wax. Might want to use a rubber grip sleeve to maintain hold of waxed gun.
Consider popping out the mag release button and coating it with grease. Mine practically seized from rust after exposure to SC humidity while IWB.
Also, I found ammo needed wiping from built up oxidation.
Good luck

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Slava Ukraini!

I would NEVER replace steel sights with plastic. Over time the plastic will wear just from holstering and cause change of impact over time. Also they have been know to just plain break.