M&P 15 Sport optics

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Bluelinefox

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Greetings ALL!
I'm new to AR land and am researching my otions for a starter unit that won't go over my current budget. The "sport" seems like the way to go for a first time purchae at this time. I am restricted to the CA compliant versions. I want to get some good optics probably eotech XPS2, that can be used when and IF I upgrade and hand the "Sport" over to my grand kids. The queston I need input for is simple. What do I need to insure I don't get interference from the fixed front sight on the Sport model? Some type of riser mount or will the unit work as is on the SPORT?
 
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The Sport is no different than any other AR in regards to the front sight and the decision to put an optic on it. I would recommend a scope vs. and EOTech although there is nothing wrong with the XPS2 (I run one on my shotgun). I say this because you mentioned grand kids and I know my 55+ year old eyes appreciated a magnified view when shooting longer distances.

You may have to put a riser on the between the rail and the sight....it depends on the type of mount and how high it sits. You'll want a good cheek weld regardless of it being an EOTech or some other type.

One other thing....I wouldn't classify your Sport as anything resembling a starter kind of AR. The Melonite coated barrel will give you many years of service and the lack of a dust cover isn't any issue....none of my bolt action rifles have dust covers and they've been reliably working for decades upon decades. ;)

Here is a pic of my M&P15 in its current configuration. The best part about an AR is the near infinite ways you can customize it for your own needs.

m&p15or.jpg
 
If you get a magnified optic and set it to about 5x or higher, the front sight post will blur out and you won't see it. If you get a non-magnified optic, such as a red dot, the front sight will be visible as you look through the red dot. You co-witness the iron sights and red dot, then fold the rear sight down (if you upgrade to a folding rear sight). The red dot will appear to sit on top of the front sight as you look down it. Some people are bothered by the front sight post being there all the time, but that is the nature of the standard FSB. If you don't like it, get the M&P 15 OR model instead. It has a flat railed gas block as shown in the picture above. Put a metal folding front sight on there, fold it down too, and you will have a nice clean view through your optic until you choose to deploy the iron sights.
 
Thanks you guys! Excellent input and outstanding picture. Worth a thousand words.

I'm vascillating between M&P 15 T which would have to be ordered, (and I'd have to wait a while to get the optics $$) and the sport with instant gratification. I'm gonna ponder a while and keep learning from folks like you:)
 
I just received my Sport, shot it for the first and only time with the iron sights over the Labor Day weekend. Just received and installed a Burris scope on it (3-9x40) and plan to shoot it this weekend. For plinking, I use my MP-15/22 with a BSA red dot.
Both are CA compliant, and together cost me the same as one high end AR-15.
To your question:
Higher than 3X you don't see the front sight (no co-witness). My red dot co-witness, and there is plenty of opinions on how to set it up. I'm still learning, but the most important thing for me is consistency where I rest my cheek, and then everything adjust from there (ring height, and risers etc.). I see many pictures with scope real high and wonder how do avoid parallax.
 
Thanks Bionic!! The more good input the better..... Still pondering! Going to shoot my first IPSC this Saturday. I hope I can get some more input there. I'm kind of excited and eventually wanna shoot three gun.
 
Sorry to piggyback, I hope this fits with the thread...

I bought a Burris Speeddot 135 for my 15 Sport. I also bought a 1" riser to mount to the flat top rail.

Looking through the Burris, the "dot" sits on the top of the front sight...which isn't a problem. However, being a noob, and not having fired it yet, if the "dot" is zeroed correctly and I take aim using the "dot", won't I be considerably low of the target, as the RDS is mounted an inch off of the flat top, thus higher than the barrel???

I tried the Burris on my 10/22, standard rail mount, and was not even close to where the RDS was showing when I fired at 25y and 50y. Like scary off...like, put it back in the case before you hurt someone, off. I tried adjusting, as you would a standard scope, which I've done before, but couldn't come close to dialing it in on the 10/22.

Kinda freaking me out now, I don't want to be throwing .223 lead downrange without being at least semi accurate.

Thoughts??? I'll be shooting from a bench with a bipod until I get comfortable.

I was going to replace the gas block and front sight with a low profile block, then install a flip up sight on the drop-in quad rail I bought, but don't want to jump the gun and drop more cash than I have to. The whole idea was to be able to use the RDS or a standard 3x9 40mm scope at different times.

Sorry for the noob question...I don't have anyone to bounce ideas off of at the moment and feel I need a better understanding before firing live rounds...that, and I'm a little weary of where them dang things are gonna fly.

Thanks for your time.
 
Sight in the rifle using the iron sights. Adjust the red dot to absolute co witness (dot exactly at the top of the iron sight front blade). BOTH should now be zeroed the same. IF the red dot won't co witness the iron sight, it is lacking enough adjustment for your application or is not a quality sight.

You should always be able to co witness one to the other IF one is accurately sighted in. Most sights are corrected for parallax so consult your manual since this is dependent on the height of the mount.

IF you want a simple method for 25 yards, shoot a group of three rounds into a BIG target. Then, adjust the sight to the center of the group. Correct for other distances using a chart that relates to the ammo used. OR re shoot at 50 or 100 and again adjust the sight to the center of your group. Simlest way to do it IF you have a spotting scope or other means of seeing the target clearly. Easier than fiddling with adjustments to hit the center or bullseye, IMHO.
 
thanks for the response, and sorry to be such a noob with dumb questions. I'll set the iron sights up and go from there. Really appreciate the info!!!
 
stayathomed said:
thanks for the response, and sorry to be such a noob with dumb questions. I'll set the iron sights up and go from there. Really appreciate the info!!!
Click to expand...

No problem, we all start somewhere. Be aware, some sights are just not right for an AR application. Your's may be but if its range of adjustment won't allow cowitness with a proper height mount it may be defective. IF the mount is not correct (usually an AR mount is taller than standard to co witness the iron) it may just need a proper height mount. Not familiar with that perticular one. Be sure to use a rest and mark your starting position for the first group. Put the rifle back to the exact position and adjust the sight to the target. Works pretty well.

Edited because the Burris sight seems to indicate that red dot should work for you.
 
Last edited:
Got out yesterday and put about 20rds at 25yds. Used iron sights, did really well...better than I expected. I then mounted the RDS while at home, and while adding the info I gained at the range, it seems that the RDS is going to work just fine. Would've gotten out today with the RDS, but someone called off sick and I had to cover...

boooo....

absolutely LOVE the M&P though!!!!
 
MPDC said:
Sight in the rifle using the iron sights. Adjust the red dot to absolute co witness (dot exactly at the top of the iron sight front blade). BOTH should now be zeroed the same. IF the red dot won't co witness the iron sight, it is lacking enough adjustment for your application or is not a quality sight.

You should always be able to co witness one to the other IF one is accurately sighted in. Most sights are corrected for parallax so consult your manual since this is dependent on the height of the mount.

IF you want a simple method for 25 yards, shoot a group of three rounds into a BIG target. Then, adjust the sight to the center of the group. Correct for other distances using a chart that relates to the ammo used. OR re shoot at 50 or 100 and again adjust the sight to the center of your group. Simlest way to do it IF you have a spotting scope or other means of seeing the target clearly. Easier than fiddling with adjustments to hit the center or bullseye, IMHO.
Click to expand...
Any recomendations for a red dot sight to use co-witness on my m&p 15 sport? Preferrably less than $200.
 
TrashmanNYC said:
Any recomendations for a red dot sight to use co-witness on my m&p 15 sport? Preferrably less than $200.
Click to expand...

Alot of people swear by the Vortex Strikefire. I had one on and it worked fine for me at 50 yards. Very good quality. One caviat, avoid the Red/Green version as the Red only is much brighter and that is important in bright sunlight.

I only took it off to mount a Nikon 1-4 M223 scope because my old eyes need the magnification for anything over 50 yds. or so.:)
 
MPDC said:
Alot of people swear by the Vortex Strikefire. I had one on and it worked fine for me at 50 yards. Very good quality. One caviat, avoid the Red/Green version as the Red only is much brighter and that is important in bright sunlight.

I only took it off to mount a Nikon 1-4 M223 scope because my old eyes need the magnification for anything over 50 yds. or so.:)
Click to expand...

Thanks. do you know Any good sites to purchase it from?
 
I got a piece of info from this thread that saved me hours of frustration.
Thank you, MPDC for taking time to help a brother out!
 
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