What does it take 2 install 10” free float quad rail?

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Flyingfool

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I would like to be able to mount a push button light and maybe a forward grip.

I am new to AR’s and only recently got my sport 2. I’m wondering how or what it takes to install a 10” or maybe 12” free float quad rail? In particular with removal of the A2 fromt site, how does the gas tube/block etc all work? I realize I will have to get a new front site.

With Christmas around the corner and I want (need?) to find what I’d like to put on Santa’s list! So I’m trying to get my ducks in a row.
 
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Look at the informative video's on Brownells website.
They are extremely helpful.
 
The front sight also incorporates the gas block on the Sport II. So, you'll also need to replace the gas block. Magpul makes a 9" handguard tha replaces the stock one, without having to remove the front sight. It also allows you to add front grips and lights using the mlok system.
 
Why didn't you just buy the rifle set up that way in the first place? By the time you purchase the rail, the low profile gas block, a new sight, and the tools necessary to do this (or pay the gunsmith), you could have just bought a rifle set up like you wanted.
 
You could leave your front site and add something like the 12" troy "charlie" free float hand guard. All you have to do is remove your sling swivel mount and the stock handguards and them mount the troy. Its one of the few true drop in free floats out there.

Here is a link
Troy Battle Rail Charlie-CX - 12in, Black | 17% OFF 5 Star Rating w/ Free Shipping and Handling

Here is a pic with it installed on mine.
s&w1 by hd_rolling, on Flickr
s&w 2 by hd_rolling, on Flickr

I have mine setup with a different flashlight now, the surefire in the pics was my old army issue deployment light. I have a smaller GEN II INFORCE light on the left hand side now.
 
Gee,

I guess I was under the misunderstanding that an AR was an adaptable platform that a person could start with a low cost starter and tailor make it the way they wanted over time!

As a newbie to AR’s I didn't think it was the best idea to build an AR from the ground up so I got my “perfect” AR from the beginning! Gee I never knew that no one ever modify’s a sport 2.

I was just asking a simple question for God’s sake. If I wanted to be nagged, I would have asked the wife for an opinion!
 
Flyingfool said:
Gee,

I guess I was under the misunderstanding that an AR was an adaptable platform that a person could start with a low cost starter and tailor make it the way they wanted over time!

As a newbie to AR’s I didn't think it was the best idea to build an AR from the ground up so I got my “perfect” AR from the beginning! Gee I never knew that no one ever modify’s a sport 2.

I was just asking a simple question for God’s sake. If I wanted to be nagged, I would have asked the wife for an opinion!
Click to expand...

Didn't say anything about building from the ground up. There are ARs that are equipped similarly to what you are asking about for the price of the Sport and a rail (possibly less).

Just makes more sense to buy a rifle that is close to what you really wanted. Would be cheaper and less hassle...

But hey, be mad at me for your mistake if it makes you feel better. Maybe you should have asked the wife, she probably would have let you buy the one you really wanted! :D

ETA... As pointed out, it doesn't take a free float rail set up to add a light and a forward grip. A simple drop in hand guard from Magpul can meet those needs, or some other drop in system.

Here is one... not free float like the Troy listed above, but should be available for less than the Troy
Leapers, Inc. - Hunting/Shooting, Sporting Goods and Security Gear
 
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If you're handy you can just cut down the original front sight base and let it function as your gas block. Might not be the sexiest thing but it works and once you cover it with a handguard you won't hardly see it anyways. If you don't have the tools to pull the factory barrel nut there are several rails available that utilize the standard barrel nut.

3b5d65d447156ee67f0c12816552db41.jpg
 
Ray1970 said:
If you don't have the tools to pull the factory barrel nut there are several rails available that utilize the standard barrel nut.
Click to expand...

True, but if he wants to free float with a cut down A2 post, he'll have to cut off the delta ring too, which can be a little tricky.
 
Kadonny said:
True, but if he wants to free float with a cut down A2 post, he'll have to cut off the delta ring too, which can be a little tricky.
Click to expand...

Some of the free floats use the delta ring, the Troy MRF is one that does if you don't want the front sight post.
 
Kadonny said:
True, but if he wants to free float with a cut down A2 post, he'll have to cut off the delta ring too, which can be a little tricky.
Click to expand...



True. But if a guy has the tools and skills to chop the front sight I would imagine cutting the delta ring shouldn’t be overly complicated. Good information to point out though.

I’ve been monkeying with the platform since the early 90’s so I have tools for doing everything but I do remember early on having to do some improvising. Not sure I should admit this but the first time I pulled a barrel I’m pretty sure I used a small pipe wrench to remove the barrel nut. Lol.
 
It's not a difficult task to remove the sight/block combo or the barrel nut.
I would recommend keymod or M-lok over a quad rail they are lighter, you can put rail attachments were needed and not have the rest of the rails digging into your hands like the quads do.

These are the tools you would need to do the work:

Armorers wrench
torque wrench
brass punch
roll pin punch
bench vise
receiver clamp

Parts needed

free float handguard/ most come with a barrel nut.
low profile gas block
gas tube.

first remove the muzzle device, next the gas block/ sight combo (the pins
remove from left to right). once the pins are out slide the sight and gas tube off the barrel. This is were you'll need the bench vise and receiver clamp to hold the upper firmly. Use the Armorers wrench to remove the barrel nut and delta ring. There are numerous type of barrel nuts that come with free floats some require aligning holes some don't but all the nuts have to be torqued to at least 35 foot pounds. The new gas block and tube will have to be assembled by placing the tube in the block and inserting a roll pin. Slide the gas tube over the barrel and into the receiver and tighten the set screws.

This may be a little long winded but it's as simple as I could make it.
Good luck.
 
Flyingfool said:
I would like to be able to mount a push button light and maybe a forward grip.

I am new to AR’s and only recently got my sport 2. I’m wondering how or what it takes to install a 10” or maybe 12” free float quad rail? In particular with removal of the A2 fromt site, how does the gas tube/block etc all work? I realize I will have to get a new front site.

With Christmas around the corner and I want (need?) to find what I’d like to put on Santa’s list! So I’m trying to get my ducks in a row.
Click to expand...

What is your primary goal? To have a free float tube that you can add a light and foregrip to, or to add a light and foregrip to your existing AR?

If your goal is to add a light and foregrip to your existing AR, there are other solutions. Arisaka Defense has re-introduced the Mossie Tactical Midnight Mount. It attaches to a standard front sight. A light can then be mounted to it at the 12 o'clock position that is easily accessible. I have been using one for years and have been very satisfied with it. Arisaka Defense also has a good selection of other light mounts and solutions, including for various free float tubes. Check them out.

The easiest way to economically mount a foregrip to your AR is to get a MagPul Slimline M-Lock hanguard and M-Lock foregrip. The Slimline is a great handguard.

I'm not trying to talk you out of a free float tube. Just pointing out easier options.
 
Andy52 posted an excellent answer to the OPs question.

As fas as specific tools take a look at Wheeler Engineering. They have about everything you need for purchase separately or in combo kits for working on an AR. I have some WE tools and been quite pleased -- receiver vice block and FAT. Relatively inexpensive too.

Swapping to a free float handguard is relatively easy for anyone with even a modest mechanical aptitude. My advice is to forget about hacksawing off the A2 front sight. Get a low profile gas block for $20.

Happy tool hunting.
 
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ChattanoogaPhil said:
Andy52 posted an excellent answer to the OPs question.

As fas as specific tools take a look at Wheeler Engineering. They have about everything you need for purchase separately or in combo kits for working on an AR. I have some WE tools and have been quite pleased. Relatively inexpensive too.

Swapping to a free float handguard is relatively easy for anyone with even a modest mechanical aptitude. My advice is to forget about hacksawing off the A2 front sight. Get a low profile gas block for $20.

Happy tool hunting.
Click to expand...

I left that out simply in hopes he wouldn't even try to mill the A2 sight down, it's just not worth it. Better just to get a new block and tube and save the old parts for another project.
 
andy52 said:
I left that out simply in hopes he wouldn't even try to mill the A2 sight down, it's just not worth it. Better just to get a new block and tube and save the old parts for another project.
Click to expand...

Actually, there are advantages to shaving the FSB instead of replacing it. Shaving the the FSB results in a low profile gas block that's firmly pinned in place.

To replace the FSB with another gas block means having to drive out the old pins, which all too often prove to be very resistant to removal. Sometimes, the pin grooves falls directly below the gas port, which is where the set screw will be on the replacement gas block. A clamp style gas block could be used instead, but their height limits tube choices and the clamping screws tend to break with use.

FSB can be shaved without removing them from the barrel. Use a few layers of masking tape to protect the other parts. The handguard cap can be removed with a pair of snips.
 
MistWolf said:
Actually, there are advantages to shaving the FSB instead of replacing it. Shaving the the FSB results in a low profile gas block that's firmly pinned in place.

To replace the FSB with another gas block means having to drive out the old pins, which all too often prove to be very resistant to removal. Sometimes, the pin grooves falls directly below the gas port, which is where the set screw will be on the replacement gas block. A clamp style gas block could be used instead, but their height limits tube choices and the clamping screws tend to break with use.

FSB can be shaved without removing them from the barrel. Use a few layers of masking tape to protect the other parts. The handguard cap can be removed with a pair of snips.
Click to expand...

Your points are valid, sometimes the pins can be a real bear to remove and there are times when the pin grooves could interfere with a set screw type block and a clamp type would be better. However if your replacing the barrel nut with a new free float one the sight has to come off in most cases.
 
andy52 said:
Your points are valid, sometimes the pins can be a real bear to remove and there are times when the pin grooves could interfere with a set screw type block and a clamp type would be better. However if your replacing the barrel nut with a new free float one the sight has to come off in most cases.
Click to expand...

If you're replacing the barrel nut with a proprietary one for a specific rail, then you absolutely have to remove the A2 front sight post, if that's what you are referencing.

The hardest thing about replacing the A2 post/block is getting the pins out, hands down. They can be a huge pain.
 
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