What does it take 2 install 10” free float quad rail?

Suggest purchasing a front sight block and the correct punch. Click Step #5.

Enjoy your newly configured rifle. You'll be glad you did it yourself.

https://www.ammoland.com/2016/11/removing-an-ar-15-a2-front-sight-how-to-guide/#axzz4xkpDebK0

https://www.ammoland.com/2016/11/removing-an-ar-15-a2-front-sight-how-to-guide/#axzz4xkpDebK0

If you buy all those tools from that link, you have invested $219.63 in tools alone. If you are not planning to build multiple AR rifles, this just doesn't make sense...

$500 Sport 2 + $220 tools + $200 rail... you are approaching $1000!

You can get an upper with rail from PSA from the price of the tools alone!
 
If you buy all those tools from that link, you have invested $219.63 in tools alone. If you are not planning to build multiple AR rifles, this just doesn't make sense...

$500 Sport 2 + $220 tools + $200 rail... you are approaching $1000!

You can get an upper with rail from PSA from the price of the tools alone!

Well nagging wife... :D

There's AR tool kits available at different prices and contents including torque wrench depending on what the OP may or may not already have in his tool box.. such as the Wheeler AR essentials kit for $90. But AR specific tools required for the OP's project would be...

Receiver vice block Wheeler $25
Armorers tool Wheeler - $25
Front sight bock Wheeler - $16

So really, if it's only a one-time project there doesn't have to be a huge investment in tools that are only useful for working on an AR.

Of course there's a ton of different tool brands and quality. Heck, my Magpul armorers tool is $80 alone.... or get a Tapco armorers tool for $12. Just depends on what the OP wants and quality. I'd also suggest a Wheeler FAT wrench ($45) for proper inch pound torque on a low profile gas block screws, but I don't consider that an AR specific tool.

Yeah, I've got a $219 Palmetto upper that I purchased for a light weight build for the wife. In today's market you can put together quite a bargain rifle. The wife's rifle includes a 13in M-LOK FF handguard, Timney trigger, Trijicon RMR, Lantac brake and was still under $1k. But the OP has an M&P and simply asked what would be required to install a FF handguard... not about Palmetto or for a Net nagging wife. ;)
 
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But the OP has an M&P and simply asked what would be required to install a FF handguard... not about Palmetto or for a Net nagging wife. ;)

Whatever... just trying to help a brother out, cause I don't think he really knows what he is trying to accomplish. You don't add a 10" free float rail because you want to add a light!

Unless he is going to start building rifles as a hobby, buying tools is money that could be spent on rifle and optics. And buying cheap tools isn't any smarter... I am the not so proud owner of the $12 armorer's wrench. Ask me how to ding up threads on a receiver extension! :D

So OP, you have several options...

1. Purchase a Magpul, UTG, Troy, etc. hand guard that drops in with no tools required. Prices and quality will vary, but all will allow you to mount your light and grip.

2. Purchase the rail of your choosing and tools required to do the job yourself.

3. Purchase another upper close to the configuration you want. Could even do different caliber like .300 black.
Warning... if you go this route, you will still spend money, as the extra upper will become lonely in the future and will "require" a lower of it's own... however, lowers are easier to build and don't require as many specialty tools.
 
You don't add a 10" free float rail because you want to add a light!

Agreed. But a longer 10-12in handguard has advantages and future flexibility beyond just mounting a light today. If nothing else it provides for extended support hand position. Seems like most guys go with the longer handguards these days regardless of what might be mounted.

I would also caution about buying a Palmetto upper. The Palmetto price is right but ya don't know what you'll be getting. A guy might have a great shooting 1-2moa Sport and end up with a 2-4moa Palmetto. Installing a FF handguard on a Sport may not improve accuracy but it won't degrade it.
 
Whatever... just trying to help a brother out, cause I don't think he really knows what he is trying to accomplish. You don't add a 10" free float rail because you want to add a light!

So instead of just answering the OP's question your first helpful tip was that he bought the wrong rifle, because you know better than he does on what he's trying to accomplish?

I added a free float rail just to add a light.

I also bought the tools to do it correctly, and have since put together 4 other rifles this year.

If this is the OP's first AR and he's just getting into building maybe his budget (like mine) allows him to buy a budget Sport II to start working on.

It's what I did, the sport II had good reviews and made for a solid platform to practice with. The PSA parts have mostly bad reviews and are known to be cheaply made.

All of my other AR's cost well over $1000 all the way past $4000, for me (and I'm sure other's) it's a hobby.
 
So instead of just answering the OP's question your first helpful tip was that he bought the wrong rifle, because you know better than he does on what he's trying to accomplish?

If he or anyone else would research before they buy the Sport based on the initial price, they would find that they have other options that might make more financial sense.

I added a free float rail just to add a light.
If you did that, it is because you didn't know any better... I bet if you were honest though, you would admit that you wanted other advantages that come with the free float, not just the ability to add a light.

I also bought the tools to do it correctly, and have since put together 4 other rifles this year.

If this is the OP's first AR and he's just getting into building maybe his budget (like mine) allows him to buy a budget Sport II to start working on.

That's the thing... if he plans to make building rifles a hobby, then sure, go for it. However, if you are buying an AR to have one, you will be better off financially to buy as close to how you want it out of the box.


It's what I did, the sport II had good reviews and made for a solid platform to practice with. The PSA parts have mostly bad reviews and are known to be cheaply made.

PSA rifles have a mixed bag of reviews, depending upon who is doing the reviewing. They are a budget rifle, built to a price point, just like the Sport, the Ruger AR-556, and other rifles. I bought a Sport I back in the day because I wanted an AR... but I haven't dumped hundreds of dollars into it trying to make it something it wasn't.

All of my other AR's cost well over $1000 all the way past $4000, for me (and I'm sure other's) it's a hobby.
Then you should understand that the Sport is a budget rifle and in the long run, when buying off the shelf, it is better to get as close as to how you want the rifle in the beginning.

Truth is, this question has been asked and answered ad nauseam on this forum. A simple search would have given him the answers...
 
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3. Purchase another upper close to the configuration you want. Could even do different caliber like .300 black.
Warning... if you go this route, you will still spend money, as the extra upper will become lonely in the future and will "require" a lower of it's own... however, lowers are easier to build and don't require as many specialty tools.

Beware, if he does this he has gone down the rabbit hole to a bunch more rifles. There is no turning back.
 
I am brand new to AR’s. I recently got into the soort 2 as a starter AR. I have no idea if I will really get into AR’s or it will just stay an rifle in my collection.

That is the reasom why I chose a starter low cost rifle. As it would not break the bank and I could tip toe into the AR world.

The thing I liked the idea of being able to OVER TIME to tailor it slowly and as my limited budget would allow.

I saw that I can drop in a quad rail for like $30 and add a light. But I thought I’d ask a question about something which I being a newbie would maybe be the next step with a longer free float guard.

I eventually want to get rid of the A2 front site, but I wanted a usable gun so buying optics ready, when I didn't have the cash to buy an optic, seemed like a stupid waste so brought me back to a sport 2 with the A2 site ramp. Having a usable gun that I can start to tailor without breaking the bank.

It is nice for those who have a couple or several thousand dollars to buy what they want. I am so new number 1 I am not sure exactly what I want ultimately. Nor do I have the cash even if I did. So give a guy a break already!

I am debating about whether it makes sense to wait a bit and save cash to buy the free float longer guard. Rather than just jump now for a drop in M4 quad rail.

I cannot be the first person who has a very limited budget and wants to slowly have some fun and tailor the gun as he goes.

Yes I suppose I could have waited another 18 months and saved enough to buy exactly what I think I want (but never having an AR how do I really even know if that rifle will be what I want). In the mean time the gun control freaks will pass a ban or some Other gun control nonsense and these low prices will Skyrocket and I won’t even be able to afford ANY AR15. So then where would I be?

I do want to get or build a 300 blackout upper. SOMEDAY.

I want a light to be able to hunt coyotes at night, and also a push button on/off for home defense if need be. A special forces co-worker stated that a well focused light beam can be effectively used as a laser. That is the bullet will be placed inside the light beam. So it can be used for both identify targets, but also as an aiming device in close quarters. And even if have to shoot holding the gun say over your head as long as you can see the beam your bullet will go there if the SHTF.

I have read that free float should help accuracy. And who would not want that potential benefit? And if I buy a “temporary” drop in only to replace it later may not be the best use of my limited budget. So I was trying to figure out what my next move might be.

I guess I came here expecting to get help and not accosted or belittled. I guess this is not the place to get education and understanding. So maybe I will have to find another forum to obtain what I’m looking for.

Maybe the reason why this type of question keeps coming up “ad nauseum” is because the poeple buying a sport 2 are new to AR’s and they are not going to do archive searches to simply ask a question.
 
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I understand where the OP is coming from. Sometimes it’s easier for those with a limited budget or a smaller amount of expendable income to buy an entry level rifle and slowly tweak it to their liking over time. Sure, they’ll eventually have a thousand dollars tied up in the rifle but for some people it’s easier getting to that $1,000 over a period of months or years making one change after the other than to fork over the whole $1,000 all at once.

As for useful advice for the OP, I have used a couple of the drop in quad rails over the years (specifically Midwest Industries) and have been very happy with them. They pop in just like the factory handguards, lock up perfectly tight, won’t break the bank, and give you plenty of space for all of your doo-dads and what-nots.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
I would like to be able to mount a push button light and maybe a forward grip.

I am new to AR’s and only recently got my sport 2. I’m wondering how or what it takes to install a 10” or maybe 12” free float quad rail? In particular with removal of the A2 fromt site, how does the gas tube/block etc all work? I realize I will have to get a new front site.

With Christmas around the corner and I want (need?) to find what I’d like to put on Santa’s list! So I’m trying to get my ducks in a row.
A solution for the M&P 15 Sport that is a drop in quad handrail with no modifications. I also recently purchased my M&P 15 and researched quad handguards that were long enough to mount many accessories without having to make any modifications to the rifle. I am also on a budget and wanted the look and function like that of a free-floating handguard but was a drop in solution without the hassle of installing a free-float handguard. After much research I found a quad rail handguard that allows me the space to add many accessories. I found the UTG Pro part # MTU015. It is a carbine length quad rail with front extension. You can find it for around $99.00 and cheaper depending on where you look on the internet. It allows me to mount a Streamlight Flashlight with remote on the left side, a bipod on the front lower rail, a picatinny mounted sling mount also on the left side and I still have rail space to add a number of other accessories. It is a drop in part that requires no modifications and feels really solidly built, but does add some weight to the rifle. That is the only downside that I have found but the advantages are worth the extra weight. It took me about 20 minutes to install and I needed no modifications on my M&P 15 Sport 2. Also important was that it fits right around the front sight for the M&P 15. I hope this helps those people that are on a budget.
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My 2 cents don't get a quad rail. Get something Mlok. MWI,BCM or a few other ones. I bought a Troy Delta Rail love it. Just drops right in and install your rail pieces where you want them. Some of these quad rails add an extra 1lb to your gun.

Sent from my P00C using Tapatalk
 
Slow down a bit @Flyingfool, no one here is trying to belittle you, we all are just tryng to understand what your intentions are and what your budget is to help you make solid decisions. Now that you explained a little better, I belive must of us can help, so just give us a little slack. We all have seen so many people jumping into the AR world without even knowing what they are doing, only to regret it at a later date. At least you are asking questions now before you swap anything. The best threads are guys who have rushed out and bought equipment to put on their AR only to find out it won't fit or can't function on their rifle. Why? Because they didn't take enough time to understand their gun and understand how it works and functions and how to customize it. Moral? Slow is better.

That being said, if you are on a tighter budget but want to add a light, look for an inexpensive quality drop in rail, maybe even a used one. Knights Armament makes a terrific drop in military grade rail and maybe you can find a used one for cheaper. That way you are not altering the rifle with something that cannot be reversed (drop in rails are a 2 minute job) and it lets you add your light, but also allows you to further change out parts later if you want and have the funds to do so.....like adding a free float rail and gas block.

Good luck, enjoy the journey and just breath.
 
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Let me try this again...

First, let me apologize for my first couple of comments. Since you already purchased the Sport, they weren't helpful to you.

Now, let me try to give you a few things to think about. You have said that you want to use the rifle for night hunting and home defense. Those two uses are more than likely going to require different setups.

For hunting, you will typically want a high output light with a spot beam to increase distance the light will reach. This type of light will not be good for indoor use as it will be too bright and bounce off surfaces, degrading your night vision as well. A wider beam is better for indoor, close use. The hunting lights will typically be bigger, with larger reflectors than a tactical light. Also, don't forget about filters... make sure any light that you choose for hunting either used color LEDs or filters are available.

As far as using the light as an aiming tool, that will take a lot of practice. The Streamlight that I have throws a center focus beam that covers center of mass on a man size target at across the room distance (10')... across the room and down the hall the center beam is now huge... I would have to practice at known distances to know how big the center focused beam would be and where the round would impact within that beam. Not saying it couldn't be done, but I can be more accurate with my red dot with less practice.

You also mentioned accuracy as a benefit of a free float. That advantage isn't going to come into play at inside the house distances, and probably not at hunting distances either. If you are looking for an increase in accuracy for your use, you will be better served by optics and trigger. Spend money for those over a free float hand guard.

Speaking of optics, that is another difference in set up for hunting and home defense. Typically, hunters use a high powered optic for magnification, where as in a defense gun, a red dot is more beneficial due to faster target acquisition.

I use my AR for hog hunting. I use a red dot, as I want fast target acquisition... my hog "hunting" is more eradication. I want to be able to put as many aimed shots into a group of hogs as I can before they all scatter. When I am actually hog hunting for meat, I use my bolt gun with scope. Pick the one I want, hopefully make the perfect shot that drops him where he stood and not have to try to track him down.

So, long story short, think about what you want... a hunting rig, or a home defense rig? There may be some solutions that will allow one gun to do both, but they will be compromises and have short comings.

If it were me and I wanted to lean more towards a defensive rifle, I would get myself a good red dot, a Magpul hand guard so I could attach a light, and ammo.

If I was going for a hunting rifle, I would spend my money on good optics and a trigger upgrade. A free float rail would be low on my list when it comes to getting the most bang for my buck.

Good luck with your decision.
 
Ok

Help explain to me the various somewhat proprietary attachment systems. Pictinny, MLOK etc. it seems like once I make a decision, a person is beholden to that proprietary system, short of complete 100% swap out. I guess it is a apple android type of thing.

What are the advantages of one system over another? Is there any standard or is an old standard currently being replaced with a new “standard”?

As far as hunting or defense. At this point I woild probably lean more towards defense. Any hunting I do would be no more than 100 yards, and probably more realistically inside 50 yards. So I was leaning more towards red dot in my thinking. I am not at all sure about the whole co-witness set up. But an optic will probably not be for a few months or next year. Unless I snag some great deal or Santa is nice to me. Really, honest Santa, I’ve been a good boy this year!
 
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Picatinny rails are the most prevalent, as it is the old standard... this is your common rail. M-LOK and Keymod are newer standards, and it looks like M-LOK is winning out. M-LOK is backed by Magpul. If you get a M-LOK or Keymod setup, you can attach small pieces of picatinny rails to support those older mounts. If I were buying new and didn't have existing accessories, I would buy M-LOK hand guards and accessories designed to attach directly to the M-LOK channels.

The advantages of M-LOK and Keymod is that it offers more attachment points than quad rail, is slimmer and lighter than quad rail, and doesn't eat up your hands like quad rail.

I have inexpensive red dots on my rifles, since my use is mostly recreational. For a defensive firearm, you may want to spend a little more to get features like long battery life where you can just leave the red dot turned on all the time. The Bushnell TRS-25 can be had for less than $100, as can some models from Primary Arms. These work well for my use, but battery drain is an issue.
 
Not to depart too much from the original topic but since optics are being discussed I would highly recommend the Aimpoint PRO. You can catch them on sale for around $350. Battery life is crazy. Mine stays turned on 24/7 and around New Years each year I put fresh batteries in just to be on the safe side. I think the battery life is rated for about three years of continuous use.
 
I have Picatinny, Keymod and M-Lok handguards.
What's popular today is 13in or longer slim profile light weight Keymod and M-Lok handguards around 1.5in OD compared to most picatinny quad rails at 2in+ diameter and usually significantly heavier. Not only do Keymod and M-Lok offer slimmer lighter designs, but their design allows for low profile mounting solutions keeping accessories closer in to the handguard.

You mentioned a 10in handguard.
This is a 10in quad rail on one of my ARs.
K0XRT34.jpg


This is a 13.5in M-Lok on one of my ARs. Notice the slim profile in comparison to above. And notice the rail covers above to get a smooth griping surface that aren't needed on the M-Lok
Y4ikVDh.jpg


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As far as optics... this is a great time to look for bargains. The AR market is soft and prices are lower than I have seen in a long time. Look for even better prices during the holidays. Narrow down your choices and click the buy button when that hot deal pops up. That's a Trijicon RMR on the bottom rifle. I recently paid only $260 on a Cabela's special. You can bet there will be a lot of similar bargain prices on a variety of optics in the next few weeks.

My general advice when it comes to optics is do your research and then buy what ya want even if it costs more than you'd like. IMO, triggers and optics aren't the place to compromise on what you want.

1x red dots are great if fast target acquisition and light weight are top priorities. Otherwise, a 1-4x variable scope is an excellent choice for general ARing.

Happy optics hunting.
 
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Another stupid question. But I see MLOK and Keymod used like interchangeable. So what is the difference?

I have not been able to really tell head from tails looking on line for what drop in magpul forearm. I would like it to wrap around or extent foreard of the A2 ramp to give a little more room. I see a slim line MOE SL but how is that MLOK? I am apparently missing something basic.
 
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