Question re: Cleaning the Bolt Carrier Group

RockBottom

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New M&P-15 Sport II owner here (long-time gun owner, but this is my first long gun of any type). When you are cleaning the BCG, do you take apart the bolt, including taking out the extractor, extractor spring, ejector, etc? Or do you just leave the bolt all together?

Thanks!
 
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If I am doing a quick clean I always remove the bolt from the bolt carrier and then clean them.

If I am doing a regular or deep clean then I remove the extractor. I have never removed the ejector.

There are several good tools from various manufactures for cleaning the bolt and bolt carrier. I really like the tools from CAT outdoors.

CAT Outdoors Products - CAT Outdoors Inc.
 
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I have occasionally removed the extractor, either when I was having extraction issues or once/twice for deep cleaning.

The spring inside the bolt body puts leverage on the extractor. Sometimes that doesn’t work well enough. I have seen extraction become problematic with (1) lots of foreign debris and (2) cheap ammo. For me, it is usually those two things together, such as grit jamming the extractor. I have replaced the extractor spring or added Dfenders on at least two older rifles.

US Army had a prevalence of similar extraction issues in the early fielding of the M4 carbines in the late 90s and early 2000s. Numerous issues came together, but shorter barrel didn’t help. The ORing And Dfenders were used for stopgap solutions until the copper colored Colt spring came out.

In other words, if your bolt is built similar to Milspec in the last 10 years, it should run fine with little to no cleaning. If you start having extraction issues, cleaning shouldn’t hurt.
 
Interesting he says NOT to lubricate the trigger area at all - I've seen others say you should be doing that.

I saw that as well. The instructions for my LaRue MBT triggers have you applying grease. Of course, I forgot that step on one of my installs, and that gun runs just as well as the others where I applied a thin coating of grease. It makes sense that you don't want to attract grit and grime there.
 
About a half-century has passed since I had to thoroughly clean a AR-rifle (US M16A1) for turn in, subject to a very thorough inspection.

We used immersion heaters in galvanized steel trash barrels, raising the water temperature to a brisk boil. Strip down the weapon, all the small parts (including bolt, bolt carrier, etc) in a wire basket, and everything dunked into the barrel of boiling water and dish-washing soap. Then into the barrel of boiling clean water.

Coming out of the barrels the metal is too hot to handle, but the water immediately evaporates off leaving the parts completely dry. All the grease, oil, and crud are removed. Normal cleaning with solvent, then a light application of LSA (Lubricant-Small Arms), and your weapon is ready for Staff Sergeant Gilcrest's closest inspection.

I still use boiling water and dish soap when cleaning heavily fouled or seriously neglected used guns that come my way. I have a couple of large kitchen pots that I bought at Goodwill for a buck or two for this use (I don't recommend using my wife's good kitchen stuff). 5 or 10 minutes in boiling water with a bit of Dawn dish soap, then 5 or 10 minutes in clean boiling water, then normal cleaning and light lube.

Sounds extreme, but you probably never met Staff Sergeant Gilcrest.

"Dawn takes grease out of your way".
 
Here is a good article on cleaning and maintaining the AR-15:
S.W.A.T. MAGAZINE – KEEP YOUR CARBINE RUNNING : Slip 2000 Official Blog
The guy who wrote it was a Marine, Cop, Gunsite Instructor and ran training for various .LEO, .MIL and OGA.

To directly answer your question the S&W manual shows you how to remove the extractor for cleaning. I only recommend doing so periodically (not after each firing session) you don't get alot of crud under it and if you lose the spring, buffer or pin, it can be a pain until spare parts can be procured. Also pay attention to the condition of the tip of the extractor. If it cracks or breaks it will no longer extract regularly. I've only seen that issue on high mileage rifles or rifles made with cheap parts. Don't mess with the ejector.
 
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Sounds like a hold-over from the corrosive ammo days.
About a half-century has passed since I had to thoroughly clean a AR-rifle (US M16A1) for turn in, subject to a very thorough inspection.

We used immersion heaters in galvanized steel trash barrels, raising the water temperature to a brisk boil. Strip down the weapon, all the small parts (including bolt, bolt carrier, etc) in a wire basket, and everything dunked into the barrel of boiling water and dish-washing soap. Then into the barrel of boiling clean water.

Coming out of the barrels the metal is too hot to handle, but the water immediately evaporates off leaving the parts completely dry. All the grease, oil, and crud are removed. Normal cleaning with solvent, then a light application of LSA (Lubricant-Small Arms), and your weapon is ready for Staff Sergeant Gilcrest's closest inspection.

I still use boiling water and dish soap when cleaning heavily fouled or seriously neglected used guns that come my way. I have a couple of large kitchen pots that I bought at Goodwill for a buck or two for this use (I don't recommend using my wife's good kitchen stuff). 5 or 10 minutes in boiling water with a bit of Dawn dish soap, then 5 or 10 minutes in clean boiling water, then normal cleaning and light lube.

Sounds extreme, but you probably never met Staff Sergeant Gilcrest.

"Dawn takes grease out of your way".
 
I too have half century or more with the M16 and removing the extractor is seldom required. The last time i recall it being necessary was not long after the Army started issuing CLP. Seems that CLP had a propensity for destroying the little red silicone inserts in extractor springs. New springs with blue inserts, resistant to CLP, were issued and armorers instructed to not use red inserts.

Now even those have been replaced. PS Magazine - TB 43-PS-670 - Page 12 of 33
 
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I too have half century or more with the M16 and removing the extractor is seldom required. The last time i recall it being necessary was not long after the Army started issuing CLP. Seems that CLP had a propensity for destroying the little red silicone inserts in extractor springs. New springs with blue inserts, resistant to CLP, were issued and armorers instructed to not use red inserts.

Now even those have been replaced. PS Magazine - TB 43-PS-670 - Page 12 of 33

I never used "CLP", it was always "LSA".
 
"CLP" stands for cleans, lubricates and protects. There is no brand on the market called CLP. There are many on the market that claim to clean, lube and protect. So, the are a CLP, but that is not the name.

What I believe most people are referring to when the just say CLP is a product called Break-Free CLP, which is a very good product.

Frog Lube is also a CLP, but I suspect that's not what they usually mean.
 
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