About springs, I always use the Factory Original Weight (1076=17#) I trust Wolff to know what that is and I use it.
It is I suppose possible that you might find some commercial ammunition for the 10MM loaded to imitate the 40 that would not cycle the 1076 action and then need a lighter recoil spring and firing pin spring to use up the awful stuff. I don’t go there.
As BruceM points out changing springs is a tricky proposition. Slide weight, mainspring tension, friction, recoil spring tension are part of the design. One thing is certain if you slow down opening speed you will increase closing speed (heavy spring). The reverse is true as well. What you are doing is changing the timing. Good? Or Bad?
Since it works fine as designed does it need adjustment?
In an effort to get the lightest possible recoil consistent with the highest possible accuracy 1911 tuners sometimes go to lighter springs, it is absolutely necessary to change at least recoil, main, and firing pin spring when doing this. You essentially have a very special purpose pistol designed around a special load. This special load is far different from the 230GR FMJ for which the 1911 was designed.