39-2 recoil spring guide rod question

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First time poster, long time lurker. I have gained alot of very useful information from these forums. I finally have a question to ask. I have owned a fair number of S&W revolvers, and have recently acquired my very first S&W pistol: an early? (ser# A158XXX) Model 39-2. Excellent condition, looks like it has barely been fired. It has an aluminum recoil spring guide rod assembly that has a bit of finish wear on the end. Not all scarred-up, just has some finish worn off and bare aluminum exposed. I saw a new excellent condition factory guide rod on an auction site, placed a bid, and received it today. The rod looks identical, has the same length and diameter, but is a steel rod instead of an aluminum rod. The spring loaded plunger on the end is just a tiny bit shorter on the new one, also. It was advertised as being for a model 39 or 59. I am guessing that the steel guide rod is actually for a second generation steel framed pistol? Could I still use it in my aluminum frame 39-2? Would there be any benefit in using it instead of the original aluminum rod? The original aluminum rod isn't bent or defective in any way, but I would like to use the steel one if it is considered to be more durable or reliable. I wasn't sure if this post should be in the gunsmithing forum, but thought it might get more exposure in this one. Thanks very much for any advice or insights.
 
Disregard my previous post, I was thinking of something else. Anyway all of my 39-2's have a steel guide rod and all of my 3rd gens have aluminum. The one you are looking at should work.
 
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It is from a 39. Never have seen a 2nd or 3rd gen with a steel guide rod. But I'm sitting about 20 feet from an as issued 39 that has a steel one in it.
 
I've never heard of an aluminum 39-2 guide rod failing.

If you are buying spare parts for your 39-2, get things like springs, extractors, and firing pins.
 
Just my .02 on steel vs. aluminum guide rods. I have owned a 39 no dash and several 39-2s since the mid '60s. I believe I purchased them all NIB over a period of years. Can't remember on the 39, but all my 39-2s had black anodized aluminum guide rods. None actually failed, but the aluminum guide rods showed wear almost immediately. They displayed circular marks/gouges on the rod, which wore through the anodizing to the softer aluminum underneath. The wear got worse with continued use, and didn't cease at a certain point. The marks/gouges could be felt as well as seen. I believe this was probably due to the movement/slight tilting of the barrel bushing upon recoil. I was concerned that the gouges were becoming deep enough to hang up the barrel bushing. My two 639s and two 539 2nd. gen guns had steel guide rods. All of my 3rd. gen guns had/have steel guide rods. All of my PC pistols came with steel guide rods. I much prefer the steel to the softer aluminum. The steel rods don't seem to show any significant wear, no matter how much the gun is used... ymmv
 
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Wonder if the steel rod wears the recoil spring more than the aluminum?
 
Wonder if the steel rod wears the recoil spring more than the aluminum?

I think spring steel is harder than the steel in the guide rod.

I have a 39-2 that had an aluminum guide rod and it too showed the same wear pattern as Rock185 described. I've since swapped to a steel guide rod and also a different (later version) barrel bushing. I think the old style barrel bushing that fully surrounds the guide rod is to blame and the reason why S&W went to the "half moon" bushing on later 1st gen versions and carried over to the 2nd gens.

My $.02 on the aluminum guide rod is, in all likelyhood it was meant to keep weight down along with use of the alloy frame, and switching to a steel guide rod is no big thing and a matter of personal preference.
 
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Many thanks to Gunhacker and everyone else. I went ahead and re-installed the original (aluminum) guide rod and will just keep the steel one as a spare. This thread:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-semi-auto-pistols/72722-guide-rod-question.html
is what got me to look for a replacement guide rod, as much as the worn finish did. The collar on the aluminum rod spins freely with very little effort. The collar on the steel one however, is tight and rock solid. There is also about double the number of "dimples" on the steel rod.
So I guess I'll go with the aluminum one until it separates or becomes totally scarred and gouged-up, then replace it with the steel one. I sure appreciate the help.
 
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