OK, I’ve seen folks describing taking the plastic recoil spring guide rods out of their Value Line pistols and replacing them with steel, but other than one mention of the rod getting battered over time, I haven’t seen any other shortcomings mentioned. My question is, if the plastic guide rod is in good shape, does it need to be changed? Is there any net gain (besides weight?)

What inspired this question is that I just found the plastic rod from a 910 parts kit I bought a while back. Although it has a little hole in the back instead of a projecting teat like my steel ones, it appears otherwise to be perfect. Is there any good reason to not use it or at least keep it for a backup on a spare slide?

To expand on this question/topic, I’m on record as turning up my nose at “Combat Tupperware” and demanding that my guns be made of steel or aluminum and wood, but I’m starting to waver when it comes to saving weight and friction by using some components made self lubricating plastics of the proper composition where appropriate.

Can overturned, worms wiggling everywhere; my ducks are out of their row chasing the worms!

Froggie

Having no familiarity with that particular line of pistols, my approach would be to ask myself 3 questions:
Does the plastic rod hinder reliability?
Will failure of the rod cause catastrophic damage to the pistol or shooter?
Are you planning on carrying the pistol?

If all are no, I wouldn't bother.

If even one is a yes, I would change it.

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aka "Mooncat"

If you can do a Google search on the plastic guide rods for the specific firearm you have, and not find previous instance of failure issues, then your unlikely to become the first to have a problem.

My opinion on making functional changes to guns designed by real firearms engineers, working for major gun companies, (perhaps naively) , is that unless a known problem presents itself, making such changes is about as likely to cause problems as it is to fix whatever the perceived issue may be.

As far as plastic guide rods are concerned, I have repeatedly read of instances of replacement metal rods having caused other issues, including damage to the gun. Can't say about the "Value Line" specifically.

Larry

I believe over time the downfall of the 3rd gen polymer guide rod is not the rod itself but the plunger. My CS9 had a metal guide rod with a polymer plunger. This plunger had become somewhat chewed up and flattened through routine maintenance that it sometimes failed to seat properly, thus creating no pressure on the slide stop notch. I changed the plunger from polymer to metal and problem solved.

Back when we were transitioning from revolvers to semi autos, I was issued a 910. Early production, forged hammer/trigger, plastic guide rod. And BTW, it sounds like the 910 guide rod you describe is missing its plastic plunger, at the tip. You need that.

I shot that gun, for years and not very well. At that time. I registered here and asked questions about shooting more accurately with the 910. One of the many suggestions was to install a 5906 metal guide rod (why I can't recall and now I can't imagine why - but I was new at the time, to TDA semi autos).

That 910 went on to become a teaching pistol and eventually I did, at some point install a 5906 metal guide rod. And within a few thousand rounds of doing so, the frame cracked. Was it because of the guide rod? More likely the high round count and ignorance in changing recoil springs at correct intervals. But........I wondered.

I never had any problem with the plastic guide rod in the 910. In tens of thousands of rounds. I would wager you will not either. Hope this helps! Regards 18DAI

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7 +1 Rounds of hope & change