10-5... S&W Purists, look away!
- Thread starter 1point9turbo
- Start date
Fishinfool
Member
I like it, and think the grips go well with it. R/E the tight DA pull on one chamber - Did you experience it before the re-finish? If not, it sounds finish related, and will probably get better with some break in / wear.
Larry
Larry
While I would have preferred bead blasting then rebluing the bronze color goes so well with the Lamo-Camos that it could be called art.
Most likely the tight rotation with one chamber was caused by adding material to a ratchet tooth or the B/C gap was reduced to the point that it is zero at the offending chamber. If the problem is build up on the ratchet teeth and it is even on all the teeth then a thinner hand might get it back to where it was for about $15. If you are confident that is the problem and are handy with a very fine Arkansas stone you could take a thousandth off the portion of the hand that contacts the ratchet teeth. If the problem is reduced flash gap first look at reducing end shake. If there is no significant end shake then you could file a few thousandths off the back of the barrel. Those are not the only possibilities. They are just what I'd look at first.
By the way, I like Lamo-Camos. Non-original stocks do not offend my some what pure collector's eye. So many collectors temporarily install more comfortable stocks for the range that I do not assume a S&W's collectable status is reduced.
Most likely the tight rotation with one chamber was caused by adding material to a ratchet tooth or the B/C gap was reduced to the point that it is zero at the offending chamber. If the problem is build up on the ratchet teeth and it is even on all the teeth then a thinner hand might get it back to where it was for about $15. If you are confident that is the problem and are handy with a very fine Arkansas stone you could take a thousandth off the portion of the hand that contacts the ratchet teeth. If the problem is reduced flash gap first look at reducing end shake. If there is no significant end shake then you could file a few thousandths off the back of the barrel. Those are not the only possibilities. They are just what I'd look at first.
By the way, I like Lamo-Camos. Non-original stocks do not offend my some what pure collector's eye. So many collectors temporarily install more comfortable stocks for the range that I do not assume a S&W's collectable status is reduced.
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OP
1point9turbo
Member
Thanks all... too many to quote. Ill try and remember.
"to be fair... you did warn me" this made me literally LOL haha. thanks for looking. it definitely wasn't in collector shape to begin with... and there are only about 6 million other ones sooo. i figured i could afford to play with this one.
the coating cost me $160. theres a decent amount of prep work with revolvers vs. say covering a slide of a semi-auto.
I am pretty positive the resistance is due to the coating. It did not have any resistance prior to the work. The SA trigger was ridiculously light. The smith who worked the trigger said prior to his work, whoever had messed with it went a little too far on one side and only about 30% of the sear surface was actually engaging. it is still really light... but does feel a lot different after he worked it (in a good way).
Id be comfortable checking out those areas and polishing/sanding. I have a few stones around that are super fine. Or, I could polish the area. I polished my AK trigger a few weeks ago with super fine paste. Took barely anything off but made it feel worlds better. but then again, a little goes a real long way with an AK...
I can see light as I work the action between the cylinder and barrel for each one so I don't think it is rubbing there. The ejector part of the cylinder (the 'star') was not coated at all. it is still original. I was trying to avoid any clearance issues. plus the contrast looks cool. it may be the area where the cylinder interfaces with the ejector. there is absolutely zero movement of the cylinder fore and aft.
"to be fair... you did warn me" this made me literally LOL haha. thanks for looking. it definitely wasn't in collector shape to begin with... and there are only about 6 million other ones sooo. i figured i could afford to play with this one.
the coating cost me $160. theres a decent amount of prep work with revolvers vs. say covering a slide of a semi-auto.
I am pretty positive the resistance is due to the coating. It did not have any resistance prior to the work. The SA trigger was ridiculously light. The smith who worked the trigger said prior to his work, whoever had messed with it went a little too far on one side and only about 30% of the sear surface was actually engaging. it is still really light... but does feel a lot different after he worked it (in a good way).
Id be comfortable checking out those areas and polishing/sanding. I have a few stones around that are super fine. Or, I could polish the area. I polished my AK trigger a few weeks ago with super fine paste. Took barely anything off but made it feel worlds better. but then again, a little goes a real long way with an AK...
I can see light as I work the action between the cylinder and barrel for each one so I don't think it is rubbing there. The ejector part of the cylinder (the 'star') was not coated at all. it is still original. I was trying to avoid any clearance issues. plus the contrast looks cool. it may be the area where the cylinder interfaces with the ejector. there is absolutely zero movement of the cylinder fore and aft.
OP
1point9turbo
Member
Found it. I polished all the silver colored areas where the star contacts the frame of the gun (around where the firing pin pokes out) and also the edges of the 6 teeth. It is a tight fit, it was rubbing there.
Feels better, needs a little more. Ill continue. I know I am not using all the correct terms... forgive me.
Feels better, needs a little more. Ill continue. I know I am not using all the correct terms... forgive me.
As I look at those pictures I can almost hear sitar music playing in the background. Some sandlewood incense, a lava lamp, a little blue shag carpet and it could induce flashbacks.
But it also occurs to me that if a new wave, psychedelic-hippy action shooting event ever takes root, then you may be quite advanced on the learning curve. Perhaps you may be on to something.
But it also occurs to me that if a new wave, psychedelic-hippy action shooting event ever takes root, then you may be quite advanced on the learning curve. Perhaps you may be on to something.
IAhunter
Member
I like it. An really like those camo-lamo Hogues. I have a round butt set on a M66. They fit my hand better than any other wood grips.
I like being different and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. On that particular model with those grips, it works! Conversely, I saw a DA revolver for sale where the frame was completely color cased and it looks like 'bleep'!
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The model 10. S&W's bread and butter since 1899.
I went this way.
Gunshow last weekend. Saturday morning found the
stags on a table at $55.00.
Sunday am I find this 10-7 strapped with pac's
on a Glock dealers table(trade-in) $350.00 drive out.
1+1 = this..
I went this way.
Gunshow last weekend. Saturday morning found the
stags on a table at $55.00.
Sunday am I find this 10-7 strapped with pac's
on a Glock dealers table(trade-in) $350.00 drive out.
1+1 = this..
Xfuzz, you definitely stole those stags. Good score.
Turbo, great job on the reclamation. you've certainly got the only one like it on your block.
Turbo, great job on the reclamation. you've certainly got the only one like it on your block.
I like the looks of your Model 10.
I have several that would be good
candidates for such treatment, but
I am too tight to get off the money.
I am a fan of a "well used, seasoned"
firearm, and I just keep them well oiled
and wiped down.
I have several that would be good
candidates for such treatment, but
I am too tight to get off the money.
I am a fan of a "well used, seasoned"
firearm, and I just keep them well oiled
and wiped down.
TfflHndn
Member
I'm usually a bit of a traditionalist, but I like what you've done with this gun. I'm going to have to start looking for a cosmetically challenged old classic to tinker with, now that I've seen something that I would actually do and that can be done for a reasonable price. Nice going.
OP
1point9turbo
Member
yes, nice stag. sigh, u know, a only a few months ago i started getting interested in revolvers after i picked on up at cabelas... they are so classic and i really come to love the craftsmanship. if i had one with beautiful bluing, you can be sure i wouldn't mess with it. I would never do this to my victory and its original finish.
i encourage you guys to have a little fun. trust me, I am a traditionalist too. nothing like wood and steel together... but if you have something that is not that cool or not in good shape, take it and have a little fun with it. it probably can't be worth any less than it is when you started.
this one won't be a safe queen. i set out to have a cool, fun gun. it will be shot (and so I don't have to shoot the victory)!
i encourage you guys to have a little fun. trust me, I am a traditionalist too. nothing like wood and steel together... but if you have something that is not that cool or not in good shape, take it and have a little fun with it. it probably can't be worth any less than it is when you started.
this one won't be a safe queen. i set out to have a cool, fun gun. it will be shot (and so I don't have to shoot the victory)!
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OP
1point9turbo
Member
and thanks! any FDE type color was just boring... I admit i kind of got the idea to do the color from a video I saw on youtube. but hadn't seen a S&W done up. when I came across the grips online, i thought it would just be cool and different.
jchaney38
Member
Nice job. I kinda like it.
ggibson511960
Member
Kudos for Not Cutting on It!
Like most respondents here, I am a stock purist. I resist the urge to irreversibly customize all my toys especially guns, motorcycles and cars. Having said that, I give you credit for not cutting, milling, or drilling on this classic masterpiece. Every one cut up is one lost to history that cannot be retrieved. The grips may not be every one's favorite, but only one brass scew stands in the way of authentic restoration. Cerakoting is a bit more intrusive, but the beautiful mechanical work sits underneath, intact and preserved for current and future admirers. FWIW, I like your color selection better than nickel plating.
Like most respondents here, I am a stock purist. I resist the urge to irreversibly customize all my toys especially guns, motorcycles and cars. Having said that, I give you credit for not cutting, milling, or drilling on this classic masterpiece. Every one cut up is one lost to history that cannot be retrieved. The grips may not be every one's favorite, but only one brass scew stands in the way of authentic restoration. Cerakoting is a bit more intrusive, but the beautiful mechanical work sits underneath, intact and preserved for current and future admirers. FWIW, I like your color selection better than nickel plating.
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