1006 & 1086 ejection pattern

[S&W1006]

Just a curious question. I have a 1006 and a 1086. I brought both of them to the range a few weeks back. I love shooting them but I hate chasing the brass. Being that 10mm brass doesn't grow on trees I spend more time chasing my brass than I do shooting my guns. I put 22lb Wolff recoil springs on both of them as soon as I took them to the range once. They used to sling brass 20-30 feet now they fall within 6-15 feet. Even with reduced loads they sling brass further than I like. Not only do they sling brass a long way the ejection pattern gets farther and the arc changes as the magazine empties. My Glock 20 however with a 22lb spring also is very consistent with the ejection pattern. If I fire a full magazine if I find one piece of brass I can usually find them all within a few inches of each other. Does anybody else have this problem with their 3rd gen Smiths? I think it has a lot to do with the ejector that the 3rd gen's use. If I didn't reload I wouldn't care but it is annoying.

 

[Outrider]

Go lighter

Shoot lighter, lower velocity loads...

But you have to understand, the 10mm is a feisty round (which is the 10mm's appeal) -- and the guns sling brass where they jolly-well wish.

Otherwise, it's a .40...

 

[MCQUADE]

I use my mangy squirrel dog to catch my brass. He loves playing "bang bang" but he won't come when I call him. I think he's gettin' a little hard o'hearing. If I had to shoot at a real range I don't know what I'd do other than a grand old Easter egg hunt. If you can shoot at home or in the woods I'd set up some plywood on my right to knock the brass down.

 

[S&W1006]

The last time out I tried my buddies brass catcher. It works fairly well but it's distracting. I stopped shooting my 10mm's at the indoor range because the deflector would kick them in front of the firing line and anything in front of the line is lost. I always look for brass at the gunshows and occasionaly find a 100 or so. I love shooting them it's just I hate losing brass. When I shoot the 40 I don't care so much I have so much free range brass I have picked up others didn't want. I used to shoot the 1006 at the plate match with light loads but you change positions so much I always lose brass. It's the nature of the game when shooting semi's at a range. What I need is somebody to chase my brass for me.

 

[Outrider]

"Brass" camo pattern??????

Years ago, while shooting 10mms at the national park's outdoor firing range, it became clear that the "ultimate" camo pattern is 10mm brass lurking in the grass...

They're next to IMPOSSIBLE to find...

(And, yeah, they were slinging 20-30 feet...)

 

[timn8er]

Would something like this maybe work?

CTK Precision Universal Brass Catcher

 

[handgunner356]

For whatever the reason the shorter 1086 uses a 17# compared to a 18# in the full size. Seems backwards but the do offer a 24# for the full size. A couple of other things that might help would be a new or heavier hammer spring or add a recoil buffer which would increase spring tension.

 

[Ascension]

Glad I'm not alone with this issue and my 1066. With my Glock 29 I don't have to chase the bass nearly as far.

 

[S&W1006]

I know my Glock is way more consistent with brass ejection distance and they all seem to land in a pile. I run 22# springs on all 3 of my 10mm's. The 22# spring tamed the Glock much better than the Smiths. I considered a 24# spring and I might try some to see.

 

[BruceM]

Trying to tune the ejection pattern on any 10mm pistol, especially when firing anything approaching real 10mm ammunition is a fools endeavor IMO. The slide velocity is just way too high. That said, changing recoils springs, especially for 10mm shooters, is the modification "du jour" these days, mostly because most anybody can do it. It's amazing that the engineers who designed the guns can never get the correct recoil springs in the guns or that the manufacturers would not ship a stronger or weaker spring as needed with the gun, especially in view of what their cost for the spring would be. Anyway, remember that increasing the recoils spring weight also slams the slide back in the forward direction. Also, all springs in an autoloader, including the magazine springs, are supposed to work together as a team and changing just one throws thing out of wack.

For what it's worth.

Bruce

 

[Shadow1006]

The 10xx series guns are very robust and with higher impulse ammo they do send the spent cases into a Low Earth orbit...

However changing the recoil spring to 22 lb is an easy start to shorten the ejection distance. By trimming the ejector and its angle, it is possible to also adjust the distance and angle at which the cases fly.

Given that S&W doesn't have a great number of parts for us to buy out right and play around I haven't cut on any of mine.

I place a tarp on the ground with the edges rolled to catch the brass and not have it roll off. I am going to build a nice PVC pipe frame and cover with minnow netting in the effort to catch them from a stationary position. Doesn't do anything if you run and gun...

Those interested in more 10mm info and other enthusiast, please stop by the 10mm Firearms site; 10mm-firearms.com - Index

 

[AveragEd]

Would something like this maybe work?

CTK Precision Universal Brass Catcher

I have one of those and the only "tuning" I have to do is moving it back or front a little and/or placing a board under it. I did bend the posts onto which the net's frame slides to make it lean over toward the ejection port a little.

Now I have to ask - how is using a brass catcher "distracting?" When I shoot to the right of someone who just lets their brass fly, THAT's distracting! So is them walking around looking for their brass. Housebreak that thing, man!

Ed

 

[Ascension]

I'm running Underwood 165 at around 1400 fps normally in my 1066 and it was throwing brass into low earth orbit with the stock springs. I went up to a 20 lb set and now it's much more consistent on where it throws the brass + cycles even some of the lower power range stuff like the Priv just fine.

 

[Gunhacker]

You have to remember that making the brass not fly so far as to make it difficult for reloaders to find/retrieve their brass, was in all likelihood not among the top ten goals on the engineering design list... given the admonishment in the owner's manual about using reloaded ammo.

But I do share that same frustration with shooting my pistols, and once upon a time when the disposable aluminum cased Blazer ammo was substantially cheaper than brass cased ammo, it was my range ammo of choice because I loathed having to be "fixated" so much about losing any brass.

 

[629shooter]

If you want to shoot stout loads and, you don't want to chase brass the S&W 610 is a great option.

But, using a heavier recoil spring in an auto does help a little.

 

[S&W1006]

If you want to shoot stout loads and, you don't want to chase brass the S&W 610 is a great option.

But, using a heavier recoil spring in an auto does help a little.

I would love a 610 but they are very expensive now. I am running a 22 lb spring now. It's not just the distance but the brass doesn't land close to each other. All my other auto's the brass all lands fairly close. The 1006 and 1086 the brass goes further as the gun empties. If I tried to lay a tarp down to catch it I would have to have a huge tarp. Distance isn't the main concern I just wish it was consistent.

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[epj]

A lot of the brass from my 1006 seems to land on the roof of the shed behind the firing line. It does sling brass everywhere. Fortunately, it never slings it directly at me.

 

[Denver Dick]

Well, I run a Wolff 20# recoil spring in my 1006. Both the factory I shoot (American Eagle 180gr) and my reloads move the 180 bullet at around 1,000 fps at the muzzle. I rarely shoot full 10mm loads. Nonetheless, with a 20# recoil spring the brass still comes out pretty sharp and fast.

I shoot my pistols at an indoor range with 12 bays. Bay number 12 has a wall to the right with sound proofing on it. The brass bounces off the wall/sound proofing and either lands just over my right shoulder or 2 or 3 feet in front of the line (easily brought in by the little brooms they have). I usually lose 2 or less per box. The guys at the range know I like that bay. So, when I'm shooting one of my semi-auto pistols, I make sure I show up right when they open. When they see me they hold bay 12 until I get to the counter.

Actually, a lot of folks don't want bay 12 because they don't like brass bouncing around in front of them.

 

[2003flht]

could you add a stiffer hammer spring to slow down the slide a bit?

 

[S&W1006]

could you add a stiffer hammer spring to slow down the slide a bit?

Possibly but that makes the DA trigger pull heavier. I just got back from the range today and I shot both guns with very mild loads. Both guns reacted the same.
I was testing some new light lead loads and shooting 5 shot strings. Round 1 & 2 landed within 2-3 feet round 3,4,& 5 were strung out from 6 feet out to 15 feet. I also shot some hot loads also with similar results but with the starting and ending loads strung out farther.

I understand as the gun gets lighter recoil will increase I just find it odd that my Glock with the same loads all of the brass is within a foot of the same spot. I could lay out a 6x8 tarp and catch all the brass from the Glock but the Smith's I would need a 20' tarp to catch it all.

It's not a huge deal it just makes brass recovery more difficult. If I could buy once fired 10mm brass as cheap as 40 I wouldn't care at all.

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