First AR-15 (budget or save up)

[WR Moore]

Please explain.

I see different barrel twists advertised. I personally have a 1:7 and a 1:8 and don't see any difference. Why do some vendors sell 1:9?

Definitive tests by the DOD showed the 1-9 to deliver superior accuracy with bullets in the 55-65 gr weight class. I've seen great accuracy with 75 gr, but you have to watch the length of the bullet. The 75 gr Hornady HPBT stabilizes, the longer A-Max doesn't. The 1-7 twist was standardized to stabilize the much longer tracer round. It's occasionally proven a problem with lightly jacketed 55 gr expanding bullets, the FMJ is no problem.

Commercially produced .223/5.56 can have a wide range of bullet weights/designs......unless you're looking at ball duplicates and even then 62 gr is available.

 

[jackmoineau]

This thread is just in time for me since we're in the same boat, except I'm in Europe.

I own a Glock 17/26 and a S&W 686-6 (4")/19-7 (2.5").

By far, I prefer handguns, so I won't be buying many rifles. I enjoy precision shooting, so a .22 LR bolt-action rifle would probably be enough for training, but I'm also considering an AR15 in case of SHTF. Just like the OP, I'd rather buy ONE rifle and keep it. I'm just at the beginning of my research, but I've looked into models like the DDM4V7, Colt, S&W M&P 15 Sport III, and LMT. I'm thinking of a 16-inch barrel, though ideally, I'd go for 18 or 20 inches. I could also custom build it (haven't reached out yet, but I'm lucky enough that there's a skilled gunsmith specializing in ARs here in Belgium).

I don't have easy access to long-range shooting spots (mostly limited to 100m), so initially, the funds would likely go towards the rifle itself (and magazines + ammo). I like iron sights, so maybe a red dot in the future, but no immediate need for a long-range scope.

What I still don't fully understand is the exact difference between a Picatinny rail and the "cylindrical" front part, like on a Colt, for example. I like simple, clean designs, but isn't it harder to attach accessories to this front part in this case?

Also, the law here is a bit special. I can easily get any bolt-action or lever-action rifle in any caliber, but it's harder to get semi-autos (though not impossible). So maybe I should just start with a good bolt-action rifle (or a lever-action to use my .38/.357 ammo)? As I read above, there's what you need and what you want...

 

[dtwn92]

To the OP, if you haven't shot one, go shoot one. This will answer many of your questions. If you have shot one, I'd guess you'd not be here asking this question.
AR's are fun, versatile and affordable. You talked about tools, this is the speed square or multi tool on your belt.
As for price, I don't know what "affordable" is to you, $400 -$4000 depending on what you make can be affordable to most. Buy what you think you can grow with.
As for what to use it for...Putting holes in paper, varmints, other game. If a riot comes and you don't have one, you'll wish you did. If it never happens, minimalist or not, you'll have a tool you can either grow with or move on.
In other words, don't over think it, grab one and see if this is something that can make you a force multiplier for w/e you might need it for even if putting holes in paper is the only thing you ever do with it.

 

[wood714]

This thread is just in time for me since we're in the same boat, except I'm in Europe.

I'm just at the beginning of my research, but I've looked into models like the DDM4V7, Colt, S&W M&P 15 Sport III, and LMT. I'm thinking of a 16-inch barrel, though ideally, I'd go for 18 or 20 inches. I could also custom build it (haven't reached out yet, but I'm lucky enough that there's a skilled gunsmith specializing in ARs here in Belgium).


What I still don't fully understand is the exact difference between a Picatinny rail and the "cylindrical" front part, like on a Colt, for example. I like simple, clean designs, but isn't it harder to attach accessories to this front part in this case?

This thread is just in time for me since we're in the same boat, except I'm in Europe.

I own a Glock 17/26 and a S&W 686-6 (4")/19-7 (2.5").

By far, I prefer handguns, so I won't be buying many rifles. I enjoy precision shooting, so a .22 LR bolt-action rifle would probably be enough for training, but I'm also considering an AR15 in case of SHTF. Just like the OP, I'd rather buy ONE rifle and keep it. I'm just at the beginning of my research, but I've looked into models like the DDM4V7, Colt, S&W M&P 15 Sport III, and LMT. I'm thinking of a 16-inch barrel, though ideally, I'd go for 18 or 20 inches. I could also custom build it (haven't reached out yet, but I'm lucky enough that there's a skilled gunsmith specializing in ARs here in Belgium).



What I still don't fully understand is the exact difference between a Picatinny rail and the "cylindrical" front part, like on a Colt, for example. I like simple, clean designs, but isn't it harder to attach accessories to this front part in this case?

That's one of the great things about AR's. The lower is the registered part. You can swap uppers by just pulling to pins. You could go from a 16" upper to a 24" upper in seconds. You can also swap calibers of the uppers...

"The AR-15 lower receiver allows for the interchangeability of certain calibers, allowing shooters to switch between them while maintaining the same lower receiver. Here are the calibers that can be interchanged:

• 223 Remington
• 22 Nosler
• 224 Valkyrie
• 6 mm ARC
• 6.5 Grendel
• 6.8 SPC
• 300 Blackout
• 300 HAMR
• 30 Remington AR
• 7.62 x 39 rounds
• 350 Legend
• 450 Bushmaster"

If you want to attach stuff to your upper a flat top with a free float handguard is the way to go.

If you like old school, a regular round handguard will work. They do make a picatinny rail that will bolt thru the holes in round handguards.

 

[jgang123]

PSA gets you in the game.